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Doesn't everyone use a cold chisel for dovetails?  They can be a problem with the skinny empire dovetails fashionable across the pond.

Ken

I started in my garage.  After moving, I now use my basement shop.  A towel is a good idea, as are the magnetic bumpers to raise the side opposite the wheel.  At first not having a level horizon offended my sense of order.  Once I finally broke down and tried the risers, I don't notice the disharmony.  Being not so thrifty, I upgraded to the new water trough, which catches more of the mess.  I recommend the upgrade. 

You guys who set up in the kitchen are either single or very nervy!

Ken

Good point, Herman. Grepper and Ron, I had the same problem with my favorite (Henckel) paring knife.  As Ron Hock might say, it failed the green onion test.  (flat edge instead of a slight curve to allow rocking). 

"Not the best knife"--fine.  However, it should be a knife which you will regularly use on your cutting board. We need the use feedback.

Ken

I found using a bandsaw frustrating until I studied with Mark Duginske.  Following his teachings, I now go through a quick setup routine each time I use the saw.  With the blade tracking properly, the guides and back bearings properly set, the saw is a joy to use.  Mark's good training has removed the hit and miss element for me.

As much as I would like to simplify using the Tormek for beginners, dressing the wheel is a necessary skill.  We all need to do it, if not at first, eventually.  Why not provide encouragement and guidance for the newbies to learn it right? Just like my bandsaw routine, it is part of good setup practice.  I would not want to be in the middle of sharpening a tool and have to true the wheel for the first time.

When I bought my first photographic enlarger many years ago, I debated about whether to spend the extra fifty dollars to get the stabilized voltage model.  In the end, I opted to get it.  It eliminated one possible problem.  Learning how to properly dress the grinding wheel at the start would eliminate nagging problems from an out of true wheel.

Ionut's marking is also called "witness marks", and used in machine trades to make sure an assembly is properly reassembled.  It seems like a good idea to me.  Probable gain and no downside risk.

Realizing that wheels wear down, I would be surprised if many of us actually need to replace one.  If a lot of work is done with high speed steel (drill bits, turning tools, planer/jointer blades), obtaining a SB wheel as a second wheel seems I wise plan.  (I have one.)

I like having different opinions on the forum.  Variety of thought makes the forum both more interesting and more educational.

Ken

I would expect a new Tormek owner who happened to have a solid background as a machinist or as a grinder to follow Ionut's advice in truing his machine.  I don't think this person would be the typical new owner who experienced trouble learning to use his Tormek.

My gut feeling is that the majority of those who experience initial difficulty probably do not have that extensive background.  If we can help them over the initial hurdles, I believe eventually they will become proficient.  Maybe the question of dressing the wheel should be in the "less frequently asked folder".

Ken

Rob, I agree.  This can be a pitfall easily avoided.

Ken

Good answers, Rob and Ionut.  Better because they are not the same.

Ionut, your answer does not surprise me.  I have known for some time that you have developed your craft to a very high standard of precision.  You have done this by your own work and have generously shared the results and encouraged the rest of us to expand our abilities.  I have the advantage over most of the forum of having shared posts and personal emails with you which have  encouraged me to go beyond the usual "limitations" of the Tormek.

Rob, you present a very logical way to quickly determine if the wheel and USB are in good alignment.

My question for both of you is:  From the standpoint of someone who is first opening the box on his new Tormek (perhaps with very little sharpening background), would it be more beneficial to try to use the TT-50 right away or wait until he had a feel for the machine?

Ionut, while you were gone, the idea recently emerged of having some sort of a forum guide for very beginners to try to help get past some of the common beginning pitfalls.  That's the context of my question.

I look forward to reading more on this from both of you.

Ken

[after a period of use]

With our "quick start guide" in mind, I am wondering whether or not to include a recommendation to use the diamond dresser before initial grinding.  My unsupported dry grinding memory would indicate this would be a good practice to true the stone with the grinder.

I find no mention of this in the Tormek handbook.  Early in the book, it states that "A grindstone can, after a period of use, become uneven on its sruface and run out of true."  it then suggests using the TT-50 diamond dresser.

The TT-50 itself doesn't appear in my copy until page 139.

I recall carefully using the TT-50 to initially true the wheel on my first Tormek. I don't recall doing so with my second unit.  (both were purchased new).  I don't recall any difference in the performance.  (Except less operator with the second unit)

My question is, should a recommendation for initial truing of the stone be included in our guide, or omitted? If it serves no practical value, i would like to keep things simple.  Comments?

Ken

I'm glad you are enjoying this, Rob.

Ken

I have read several posts recommending using cheap tools for learning.  Although I see the logic of this advice, I disagree. 

While the paper cutting test an thumbnail test are certainly good indicators of sharpness, I believe the final test comes at the workbench or cutting board.  A wise cooking dictum states that one should never use a wine for cooking one would not drink.  I believe that should apply to using a Tormek, right from the start.  I'm not saying one should necessarily start with  the very best tools, however, the initial tools should at least be tools one would use in good work. 

The initial knife used with the Tormek should be the knife you use on a regular basis on your cutting board.  I was pleased to read the recent comment that "I do a lot of cooking".  That is so important; the feedback on your knives should come from you actually using them on a regular basis.

The same applies with chisels and other tools.  Whether your chisels are used for rough work of hand cutting dovetails, you should learn to use your Tormek using the actual field tools.  In theory this could shorten the tool life. In actual practice I believe we would learn more carefully and thoroughly using our good tools.

I was delighted to feel the results of finally becoming proficient with my knife jig.  My knives make easy work of tomatoes and onions.  (One also made a very sharp incision on one of my finger tips, not so good, but very sharp.)

Ken

Good point, Rob.  I've never lived in a high production framing environment like Herman has.  One of the things I value in this forum is being able to share our different backgrounds. 

Ken

for your linguistic pleasure......

http://www.npr.org/2012/02/13/146652747/im-just-sayin-there-are-anachronisms-in-downton

Ken

My gut reaction is that a cold chisel should be sharp (and have the mushroomed head ground off for safety).  I wanted to find a source to document this.  From Fundamental Shop Training by Shuman, Monroe and Wright (1945):

"To cut well, chisels must be sharp.  Hence, they should be ground at once when they become dull."  (p 25, discussing cold chisels)  They also suggest a 70 degree angle for cutting cast iron and about 60 degrees for mild steel and wrought iron.

Ken

I would respectfully disagree.  Too many people I respect teach polishing the back.

Ron Hock's book is handy:  "Proper honing of a chisel relies on properly flattening the back.  As with plane irons, a flat, polished back is essential to a sharp edge." (p 125)

Ernie Conover always teaches that a sharp edge depends on both planes, the bevel and the back.  He takes both to 8000 grit.

My forty year old Stanley butt chisels have done the heavy work for me.  They frequently have received nicks.  I can always see myself looking at the backs.  Is this overkill or just good sharpening technique?  (Actually the mirror backs go back to when they were my only chisels and did dovetails as well as rough work.  I would still polish rough chisel backs.)

Ken

Welcome back, Ionut.

Ken