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If you are going to get the KS-123 and use Tormeks adapter or a FVB having both the stock support and the extended one will save you some time. You rarely need the extra length but I have the longer bar set up on the grinding side and the stock wheel on the leather wheel side. This wat I don't have to move or adjust anything as I try and use the same projection distance when possible.

I like that you can also use it on the leather wheel. I have been honing at 1.5° more than sharpening angle and this tool will make setup easy. Keeping a constant projection distance between knives means multiple knives with no support bar adjustments.

I will give the toothbrush a try. I do not use the paste very often and it seems to work fine.

Watch the videos and practice. I would start with a chisel or a knife (not your best) to get a feel for the machines operation. Avoid dollar store knives; they are hard to sharpen as it is difficult to remove the burr as they are often very soft. A good test for sharpness are receipts.

Ken I was curious how you are doing. I hope you are feeling better.

People do not understand how many little things are built for righty's

If I recall correctly I thought sharpening away created a more pronounced burr. If so this would make it easier for the less experienced to detect the burr along the entire edge. I think this can be a struggle for those just starting out. I like to develop a consistent small burr that I check with a loupe. Seems to make each knife go a little faster.

One thing I learned early on after purchasing the T8 was to keep the water trough as low as possible when the machine is running. After initial filling I let it run until the wheel absorbs the water. I then refill and lower trough so that wheel is submerged no more than a half inch. This significantly reduces spillage during use.

Thank you.

I will try printing this at our local libraries marketplace where they have an excellent 3D printer for patrons.

Thanks Naf for your post. I like the idea, now that I see your chair, of sitting taller. Mine while adjustable is lower and it worked perfectly when sitting at my potter's wheel.

https://www.harborfreight.com/pneumatic-adjustable-roller-seat-46319.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiMzY5MTQyNjUiLCJza3UiOiI0NjMxOSIsImlzIjoiMjQuOTkifQ%3D%3D&campaignid=675962971&adsetid=1166583696436779&product=46319&store=&msclkid=c0508531cc3a1a9f5aa8e0c172b0448d

My local woodworking store no longer stocks Tormek but they will order it if asked. They said that they wanted shelf space for items that moved quicker. I give them my occasional business and don't mind waiting a few days for delivery.

I have used Advanced Machinery several times. Always good service.

https://www.advmachinery.com/collections/tormek-sharpeners

This knife according to the description appears flexible. I would use the KJ-140.

I found this which was interesting. I remember hearing this term long ago for treating congestion and cough.

Plasters had a fabric backing and were covered with crinoline (a type of thin fabric), which was peeled off to reveal an adhesive surface that would stick the plaster directly onto the skin.  During the plaster manufacturing process, the India rubber was dissolved and mixed with the medication, and then spread onto the fabric backing to dry.  Popular plasters contained ingredients like belladonna, mustard seed (which provided heat to injured areas), capsicum (the active ingredient in hot peppers, which was used to relieve muscle pain), zinc oxide, quinine, opium and more.  Most plasters were designed to relieve minor aches and pains, or to provide heat to an injured area, much in the way heating pads are used today.

Do you have a Harbor Freight store nearby? They sell a wheeled and padded mechanics stool that is easily adjusted. I used one for years when I taught pottery and needed to be at the same level as students when using the wheel. I would also use the same one for when I threw pots on the wheel.