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Finally getting back to this.
So in picture one you can see I cannot sweep the, in this case a plane iron, across the full width of the stone because the holder is hitting the horizontal bar.  It fails in this position.
Picture two.  If I switch the jig around the iron can not even go across the full width of the stone before falling off the support bar.  It fails in this position as well.
I maintain the bar is too short.

Thanks all.  I'll be sure and let the film maker know, he loves compliments as well.

Rob.  No, never worked with a wooden view camera.  Back in the film days I would say 95% of assignments were shot on view cameras with most being done on 8x10.  Mine are big and heavy and metal.
I haven't looked through one in quite some time at this point.  All digital.

The liquor cabinet is opened frequently although in reality my drink of choice would be beer.  Made myself a very nice Negroni last night before heading out for some more late night San Francisco revelry. I went through a single malt scotch phase quite a few years ago, right now I seem to be investigating the aperitifs and digestifs of the world.  But I do love a good single malt if someone wants to give me one...

nothing to say here

True but I also do it just in case of an emergency and you never know if that large visual reminder will be the difference between safe and sorry.
I also mark all kinds of things on the tools.
Sort of like that movie "Memento"...the story of a man with memory loss that self tattoo important messages on his body so he won't forget.

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0209144/?ref_=sr_1

Not just for older humans but I think manufacturers do a poor job with signage on their tools.  On/off switches have small icons that don't mean anything. Or the writing is so small and of the same color that you can't see it.  Look at the second pic....on and off has been molded into the black surround.  So if something is poorly marked or labeled I will take a Sharpie and make it easily read and understood.

Mike,
Do you use a chevalet in your marquetry or a scroll saw?
Paul

This was taken a couple years ago...the wood shop part.
At this point there's a lot more stuff...too much stuff. 

I live and work in large warehouse.  Right now I am pushing both the photo studio and the workshop toward the rear because this weekend I am doing my huge annual BBQ.  The Tormek is now buried behind stuff.  When it sees the light of day, I'll take a couple pics of what I mean.

Yep.
All my kitchen knives are high carbon...Japanese...ones.  I'm just used to having a towel and wiping them down and drying them after all these years.

Does anybody else feel that the support bar is too short?  Many times when I'm sweeping back and forth the jig comes off the bar.  I see there is a stop for the bar to prevent this but I like to pull the jig off the bar to observe progress.

I'm totally non-denominational in woodworking and do what it takes to complete something be it powered or by hand.  I've always leaned toward the thinking that it's often quicker and easier to do it by hand rather on one offs than it is to pull out a powered tool and using that so my hand skills are pretty good.

I have a Bridge City Tools JointMaker.  For those not familiar, this is an upside down japanese saw blade held rigid with a sliding table above.  The wood is moved across the stationary blade by arm power. 
http://www.bridgecitytools.com/default/tools/jmpv2-jointmaker-pro.html

I call this doing it by hand, some others think it's cheating. 

One of the projects I'm working on currently uses the JointMaker to cut dovetails.  For expediency sake I could have used the sublime and ultimately versatile WoodRat and the look would have been very similar but decided to cut them by hand.



Few more pics of them here
http://paulkirchnerstudios.blogspot.com/2013/07/the-dove-tail-joint.html

I spent twelve years in the house construction business as a carpenter...in Montana, Colorado and British Columbia.  I always carried a chisel and it was always sharp.  Got a job in British Columbia working with a bunch a Danes and every time we transitioned  from the rough construction to the inside finish work, we would spend a half a day sharpening things.  We sharpened handsaws, plane irons, chisels and skilsaw blades all on the job site.
But maybe I/we were an anomaly in that as I knew quite a few carpenters that had no idea how to sharpen anything...or even what sharp meant.

I have but it's been awhile.
If I remember right I clamped the blade in a vise and used  the diamond plates handheld.  Sometimes doing things by hand is quicker than trying to jig something up.

Tangential thinking here but is there way to convert it a treadle system?  Maybe using an old treadle sewing machine guts.  I don't have any idea how practical this would be?

I'm of the ilk that, on smoothing planes at least, you sharpen straight but you take down the corners a bit.  If you camber the whole width of the iron then you have to extend the iron to that camber to get a full width shaving.  If your iron is straight and you "break" the corners then you can vary the depth of the cut and still get a full width cut.