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For the past 18 years I have had a 12" combo jointer/planer.  And for all those years I've put a back bevel on the blades to control chipping out.  Although the knowledge was around before him, I first read about it from a booklet Brian Burns put out.  I don't ever look at grain direction while jointing or planing, it's that effective at curbing it.
http://www.lessonsinlutherie.com/doublebevelsharpening.html

Just last week I bought a new 25" planer, ran about 10' of wood through it and decided the blades needed a back bevel on them.  When I pull out the first blade I was surprised at how short they were as far as depth goes.  When I put the blade on the Tormek, I couldn't get the angle I wanted without having the jig hit the grinding wheel.  It was close though.
So what I did was insert a piece of metal in the jig to move the blade further out.  In this photo that piece of metal is indicated by the arrow.  If you're questioning that middle screw knob on the jig.  It's f'ed up.  Can't get it to move one way or the other.
I really wanted to push the blade out a bit more but didn't really have enough ledge to accomplish that.


I put on a small bevel across the full width of the 25" blade by moving it through the jig in three passes.  Used my eye to judge when to stop the grinding process.


The whole process from three blades out to three blades back into the machine was maybe a couple hours.


Pleased with the whole process.

Does anybody else feel that the support bar is too short?  Many times when I'm sweeping back and forth the jig comes off the bar.  I see there is a stop for the bar to prevent this but I like to pull the jig off the bar to observe progress.

Came across this video of an axe making company that uses a Tormek as part of their manufacturing procedures.  Hopefully this hasn't been posted before.  Tormek usage begins at the 4:30ish mark
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNQbzQCByX4

Hello everybody.  New here.  Real name is Paul, I live in San Francisco.

I've had a Tormek since the mid 90's or so (the green Super Grind 2000) and recently it's been squealing and then stopping.  The manual suggests removing the stone and pulling out the shaft using the honing wheel.  Here, Jeff says remove the honing wheel and pull out using the attached stone.
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=1472.0

Two problems.  One, I can't remove the stone....seems to be frozen on the shaft.  Two, using Jeff's method of first removing the honing wheel doesn't work either because I can't budge the shaft.
Any tricks or tips?  Can I just shoot in some spray lubricant on the shaft hoping it works inside to the bearings and forget about trying to get the shaft off?

http://cargocollective.com/makerunknown