Messages

The SVD-110 is the proper choice. Were you using it horizontally or vertically? Scrapers are normally done vertically, but the GL1 is really a skew chisel and should best be done horizontally. Try practicing the sharpening motion with the T8 turned off, and when you get the feel for smoothly swinging the tool, try again with the machine on. Swinging that long handle around with the changing blade curve is not easy. You can also try sharpening one end of the curve, then the other end, and then blend the two in the middle.

Mike

I learned the information at a seaplane seminar during a couple of presentations on corrosion. Obviously, saltwater is going to speed up the process, but any wet environment is going to lead to corrosion. However, if the jigs were thoroughly dried after use, and some anti-corrosion substance was used on the screws and nuts during assembly, the jigs would probably outlast the user. The topic came up because some aircraft owners had what they thought was a good idea, and replaced the normal screws on the airplane with stainless, and that increased the corrosion rate. Google galvanic series. The farther apart two metals are on the list, the greater the chances of galvanic corrosion. One of the presenters pointed out that the Boeing 787, which is made of graphite composites, uses titanium fasteners, because graphite and titanium are next to each other in the series. You don't normally think of carbon fiber as being something that corrodes, or would cause corrosion.

Hogdog6 mentioned rust, so I'm not sure of his environment. It was just interesting to me that some metals are worse combinations than others.

Mike

Just learned this yesterday - in a corrosive environment, aluminum and stainless don't work well together. Too much of a galvanic potential unless the dissimilar metals are separated by an insulator. Aluminum and plain steel are better in that regard.

Mike

Here's an interesting video on the SE-77:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bfd-xzOF5sc

Mike

Thick mortising chisels are similar to bedans, so you could try the SVS-50. The SVS-38 may work, or you can try 'free handing' on the SVD-110 tool rest. With any of these, you'll need to concentrate on keeping the edge square to the sides.

Mike

2-65-A will give you an appropriate shape, but you have to pay attention to the grinding, as the shape is not automatic. If you spend too much time on the wings, they will wind up concave. Normally the problem is too much time on the nose of the gouge, resulting in a bird's beak shape. Turn the gouge upside down with both wings on the stone and free hand grind it until it is back to your desired shape. This will, of course, destroy the edges, but once you have it shaped, remount in the SVD-185 and resharpen, paying attention to not over grind. If you have a high speed grinder, the reshaping will go much faster.

Mike

As I understand it, the problem with high speed diamond wheels and steel is the carbon atoms in the diamonds will combine with the alloy atoms in the steel turning the diamonds into something that is not pure carbon, destroying the diamonds. With the Tormek's slow speed, that shouldn't be a problem.

http://www.optigrind.com/page_2538178.html

Mike

Ken,

I very much agree with your contention that the TTS-100 and SVD-185/6 combination is Tormek's best. When you can perfectly resharpen a gouge in 30 seconds (60 seconds if you want to hone), it doesn't get much better. Imagine if there was something similar for the knife sharpeners.

I also second your recommendation of the TNT-300.

Mike

Rem - The announcement says the diamond wheels will go on sale in June.

Tournevis - Ken found a Tormek retailer in the US that sold the diamond wheels for the T-2 as spare parts, and the wheels are a perfect fit on the T-4. I don't know if the T-2 wheels have the flat sides with diamonds. Perhaps a retailer in the EU also has the T-2 wheels.

Ken - I think the course diamond wheel is 360 grit, not 220.


Mike

[not]

You don't say what kind of profile you are trying to achieve with your gouge, but, in general, it is better to not swing the gouge back and forth. When you do that, the nose gets doubly ground and you wind up with a bird's beak. Work on one side and then the other, keeping them even. Then, grind the nose of the gouge, blending into the sides.

Mike

After using my CBN wheel with Honerite Gold, I save the used water for another day. The water is clean since there is no grinding wheel dust, and the metal particles are stuck to the magnet. I expect a bottle of Honerite to last a long time.

Mike

I just had the privilege of attending ten days of woodturning classes and demonstrations with two of Tormek's Friends - Nick Agar and Glenn Lucas. I can't say enough good things about both of them - world class turners, excellent instructors, great senses of humor, wonderful people, and strong Tormek advocates. If you are a woodturner or not, and you have the opportunity to take classes from or watch either gentleman demonstrate, you owe it to yourself to do so.

Stig saw my earlier post about the two of them being in Anchorage and offered to rent my T8 for their use. I said no charge, but Tormek is generously donating an OWC-100 and some jigs to our local turning club which uses  Oneway Wolverine sharpening systems. Thanks Tormek!

https://www.tormek.com/usa/en/about-tormek/tormek-friends/



Mike

Here is one example of using the BGM-100 on a belt sander -

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/general-woodworking-f5/new-project-t20894.html

Mike

Rich,

I just ordered a bowl gouge pre-ground in the 40/40 shape, so after it arrives, I'll experiment to try to duplicate that shape with the Tormek. Thanks for the settings for the nose angle.

20 degrees is about right for the far end of February in Anchorage, but it can vary quite a bit. The temperatures here are moderated by the adjacent body of water, Cook Inlet.

Jet fuel shrinks with a temperature drop, so you can put more fuel on a jet when the fuel is colder. However, traveling westbound in the winter, you were certain to be facing some strong headwinds.

Thanks again,

Mike

Ken,

As far as I know, I am the only Tormek user in the club, but maybe that will change if I bring a Tormek to the classes and the experts use it.

22F below is cold even for Anchorage, however, that would be a balmy day for interior Alaska. Even so, I'm not sure how the club convinces experts to come here in the dead of winter.

I tried to research the Stuart Batty 40/40 grind, but couldn't come up with anything for the Tormek. I was glad I tried, because that's when I realized that the numbers on the SVD 185/186 jig relate to degrees, instead of just a setting number. The lack of online videos of how to do the 40/40 grind with a Oneway Wolverine Jig tell me that it might have to be done free hand, but when I get a spare gouge to play with, I'll do some experimenting.

Mike