Say hey guys n gals, I have always had a sharpening fascination all my life, in fact when I retired I started a Scissor and Knife sharpening business, then the calls started to pick up and I was not retired any longer, so I closed the doors, I was using a Tru Hone and Ookami and Ookami Gold systems, dealing with some wimmin beauticians is very interesting........
Anyway, using this SJ-250 I am getting some residue buildup on the stone, I do not want to use the provided truing block at this time, have any of you tried a 6-800 or 1000 wet/dry to clean up the stone? or what is your method?
Thanks Darrell
Quote from: Darrell C on February 11, 2019, 08:52:16 AM
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Anyway, using this SJ-250 I am getting some residue buildup on the stone, I do not want to use the provided truing block at this time, have any of you tried a 6-800 or 1000 wet/dry to clean up the stone? or what is your method?
Thanks Darrell
I use a fine rust eraser like THIS (https://www.amazon.com/Kuniyoshi-Rust-Eraser-Sabitoru-Fine/dp/B00D0I3F0G/ref=sr_1_16?crid=W6U6K5NL8FY5&keywords=rust+eraser&qid=1549887795&s=gateway&sprefix=Rust+er%2Caps%2C206&sr=8-16).
HUH!, thanks for the response, I will have to get one, I assume it has an abrasive in it of some sort.............do you find it best using while in wet mode rather than dry?
Quote from: Darrell C on February 11, 2019, 06:36:57 PM
HUH!, thanks for the response, I will have to get one, I assume it has an abrasive in it of some sort.............do you find it best using while in wet mode rather than dry?
It probably does have abrasive, since they come in different finish levels... the fine takes very little off the stone as opposed to other methods though.
Use it in "wet mode".
The best for the Japanese wheel cleaning works #1000 diamond plate (a cheap 1mm thick one) clamped in the square jig that comes with your Tormek, as you see on the photo i clamp it with an old plane iron for rigidity
(http://knifegrinders.com.au/photos/Grading1000.JPG)
This method assures your wheel surface remains flat and square after cleaning/de-glazing.
How to use is shown in our video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UckPmizllk0&t=72s (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UckPmizllk0&t=72s)
- watch at 5 min of the video.
I should mention that grit of the diamond plate you use to grade/clean wheels is to be about 2-3 times coarser than the target wheel grit, e.g:
For SG#220 - the diamond plate # should be 80;
For SG#1000 - the diamond plate # should be 400;
For the Japanese SJ #4000 - the diamond plate # should be 1000 or 1200.
These diamond plates will cost you near $5 delivered, they do wear with use, so better order 2 each, avialable on eBay, pick the 75mm wide one.
.
I like that Diamond stone also, I have the SE77 as long as I lock it up square, just ordered the Rust Eraser and diamond stone...................
Quote from: Darrell C on February 11, 2019, 08:59:08 PM
I like that Diamond stone also, I have the SE77 as long as I lock it up square, just ordered the Rust Eraser and diamond stone...................
I think these methods work a bit different... so don't hesitate to try both.
The Rust Eraser gives a quick cleaning. Tormek says on the SJ page...
Quote from: https://www.tormek.com/usa/en/accessories/grinding-wheels/sj-250-tormek-japanese-waterstone/You should clean the stone surface of steel particles every minute or so...
... while that may be a bit much, you can see the SJ wheel quickly turn black after a short amount of use. The Rust Eraser, in literally seconds... will remove that and leave a fresh surface.
Quote from: wootz on February 11, 2019, 08:29:21 PM
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This method assures your wheel surface remains flat and square after cleaning/de-glazing.
...
... The Rust Eraser hasn't shown any bad results in regards to this, since it does so little to the stone. I also don't have to stop and reposition the USB, like you do with the diamond plate setup.
I've tried wootz method though and it does work... but I'd save it when a little more needs to be done than a quick cleaning since it's a bit more agressive... so since they work a little different, I'm sure you'll put both to good use. ;)
I often use a Nagura stone.
Kind regards,
Rich
I often use a Nagura stone.
Kind regards,
Rich
what grit would that be Rich.................
I [used to :o] use the type of rust eraser CB shared the link to. Works great, thoroughly cleans the stone surprisingly quickly. I used to use a Nagura stone, which worked okay, but haven't since getting the above rust erasers.
I also [used to :o] use a 1000 grid diamond plate like Wootz shares, although I did not use it in a jig. I just free-handed it. I was only trying to clean refresh the surface of the stone, not true it.
Only once did I use the truing tool. Didn't like it. Left tiny cavities, which I suspect were air bubbles before being exposed. But, I am sure it is necessary to true it up once in a while.
I never used the grading stone on the SJ wheel. Just didn't feel right.
Rick
Quote from: RickKrung on February 12, 2019, 08:19:23 AM
I [used to :o] ...
I also [used to :o] ...
For those who don't know... Rick says "used to" because he was getting knives so sharp, the State of Oregon took him to court as a danger to the public... and made him destroy his SJ wheel in the public square. ;)
Quote from: Darrell C on February 12, 2019, 06:48:49 AM
I often use a Nagura stone.
Kind regards,
Rich
what grit would that be Rich.................
As I understand it, Nagura stones don't have a grit per se. In any regard, I use this one that I got from Amazon : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037M4R7A/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Kind regards,
Rich
Thanks Guys, I have a little bit of everything suggested, I will give them all a try and see what works best for me..........
Just an update, I bought some of the Rust Eraser Sabitoru, used in on my SJ250 and the residue came right off, looks like I just took my stone out of the box................
Quote from: Darrell C on February 17, 2019, 09:42:40 PM
Just an update, I bought some of the Rust Eraser Sabitoru, used in on my SJ250 and the residue came right off, looks like I just took my stone out of the box................
Cool. Thanks for the update...glad it worked for you! :)
I will echo the endorsement of the Sabitoru rust eraser (I have a slight preference for the coarse over the fine version), and it might be that other rust erasers (abrasive-filled rubber) would work as well as the Sabitoru. The Sabitoru is a favourite among flat stone sharpeners for cleaning stones between flatenings; as Darrell noted with his SJ, it cleans stones up like new.
Gord
I had ordered a package of 2, assuming it was medium and a fine, in which they came and it ended up being a pair of Medium grade, I think, as the writing is in Japanese, and the texture feels the same....
Quote from: Darrell C on February 20, 2019, 11:23:19 PM
I had ordered a package of 2, assuming it was medium and a fine, in which they came and it ended up being a pair of Medium grade, I think, as the writing is in Japanese, and the texture feels the same....
There's a distinct difference in feel (and writing) between the medium and fine I have, so you probably do have two the same.
It'll just work faster. ;)
Medium has white writing and the Fine has red writing
Quote from: bisonbladesharpening on February 22, 2019, 04:26:36 PM
Medium has white writing and the Fine has red writing
Hate it when I overlook the obvious. 👀
Welcome to the club, CB.
(It's all obvious in hind sight. :) )
Ken
Quote from: bisonbladesharpening on February 22, 2019, 04:26:36 PM
Medium has white writing and the Fine has red writing
well that settles that, a pair of mediums for me.
I have a set of three different grit "rust erasers", a very similar product. I have had them for almost twenty five years and have found them very useful for many small jobs over the years. They remove oxidation from tools, even minor rust. I think they should be a staple in every sharpener's and home handyman's kit.
Ken