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Messages - Rob

#1441
I understand its purpose ie to assist in the removal of the wire edge created by sharpening. But what exactly is it?  Is it just cream with a fine abrasive in it?

Also if your tool isn't that blunt, can't you just strop it on the honing wheel to re energise the edge?


#1442
I've just ordered Leonard Lee's book. It looks like the definitive work on the subject from the excerpts I read. Specifically by that I mean it backs up its assertions with objective fact gained through either accurate measurement or experimentation in laboratory conditions.

In short the "truth"

I have to say the general public frequently have to wade through a veritable quagmire of biased sales messaging and cleverly thought through marketing before they uncover the realities behind tools etc. I've always appreciated the objectivity delivered by the more scientific approach this book appears to take. I'll look forward to reading it and thanks for the steer

If anyone is interested in adjusting the attitude of the person standing behind the tool I recommend you read Robert Pirsig's masterpiece: Zen & the art of motorcycle maintenance

Thanks again Ken

Rob

#1443
Interesting Ken

Thanks for the input.

Rob
#1444
That explains it then Ken. Many thanks for the missing piece :-)

Rob
#1445
I'm missing something. The wooden platform allows you to hold the knife at a controlled angle while sharpening right?  To overcome the shortcomings of hand held right?

So why not just use the short knife jig?

Surely the only weakness (aside of the non centre small issue) was the issue related to how you hand crank the curve at the tip of the blade without flaring out the bevel. Jeff notes in his demo videos of the technique where you pull up rather than following the radius of the jig which is clearly a common mistake. I'm failing to see how this wooden jig would be any different in controlling that curved tip bit than Tormeks production jig?

Wouldn't you still need to hand crank the knife round the curve of the tip on this jig just as you do on Tormek's?  It's entirely possible the answer is that I'm as thick as a whale omelette which as I say is why I started with am I missing something
#1446
General Tormek Questions / Re: Using leather strop
January 23, 2013, 08:45:55 AM
Haha

Oh no, Alan isn't even in the same universe as Jeff where Tormek is concerned, his focus is far more generic.

In point of fact, with the possible exception of a few individuals deep in the R&D organisation of Tormek, I genuinely doubt anyone else on the planet has the sheer variety and hands on experience Jeff has, specifically with the Tormek. His dedication to that one piece of kit is of quite serious benefit to the global user community and he should be rightly proud of the contribution he has indirectly made to every edge in my kitchen and workshop.

So, I guess I for one would like to convey my thanks to him. His knowledge and willingness to share has helped me enormously and I have no doubt it has helped Tormek broaden their market.
#1447
Hi Peter

It doesn't mention in your post so I therefore have to assume the obvious which is that you own a Tormek?

If so and you're a turner does it also follow you own both the articulated gouge jig (SVD-185) and also the TTS-100 turning tool setter?

If yes to all above then firstly you need to consult the little chart that comes with your kit and make a judgement of the angle on the bevel of the side grind fingernail gouge you describe you want from the link you enclosed. Just eyeing it I would say its a 45degree bevel but that's a bit subjective. For the sake of argument lets assume the bevel is 45degrees.  Next you set the jig setting.  Next you need to mount the gouge in the jig with a 65mm protrusion (TTS-100 makes this easy) and then set the universal support using the TTS-100 guided by hole A ie the one furthest away.  Essentially there are three variables to setting the geometries necessary to control the angles of the grind.

Now the hard part. Because the grind you want is a long side gound fingernail grind you have to focus the grinding on the outer edges first.  Hey you know what, you need to watch Jeff Farris' video of this, it'll save a lot of typing.   His DVD is supplied with the turners kit for the Tormek. If you don't have it I think there are excerpts on you tube

Bottom line, grind the sides first till they're roughly the swept backness you desire then focus on getting the centre to join up with the wings with a single facet bevel. And be warned, when you get the bevel rubbing and its sharp, it can take a bucket of wood off in one pass if you're not careful :-)

Sounds complicated reading it back but it really isn't, Jeff's video explains it much better

#1448
General Tormek Questions / Re: Using leather strop
January 22, 2013, 10:49:18 AM
Quote from: fraseman999 on January 21, 2013, 11:03:35 PM
Hi Ken,

I am in the UK.

DM seems to be cheapest, i think with the straight jigs its around £520 or £430 ish without.

But the whole of the uk aint on google, so i would appreciate some feedback.

I've just done a broad search and D&M are definitely currently doing the best deals
#1449
General Tormek Questions / Re: Using leather strop
January 22, 2013, 10:22:34 AM
No, Alan Holtham is a freelance journalist with a specialism in woodworking (of course). He's basically a "hired gun" to the big tool manufacturers and is particularly specialised in doing hands on demos at shows and on DVD.

He was associated very closely with record power for many years and always did their wood turning or bandsaw etc practical demos at shows as well as many buyers guides for their products. More recently though I've noticed him popping up with other manufacturers...Tormek for one and Makita for another

I noticed at Kempton Park this year that Record Power had half the floor space they normally have with no sign of Alan so I'm guessing they're being a tad careful with cost right now. I've run a company for many years and know first hand the cost risk of a big exhibition

He guests on the occasional specialist woodworking show (discovery channel type stuff) but to my knowledge has never had his own show

It's a pity because he's a Yorkshireman (as am I) and also an excellent presenter. Come on Alan, lets see your own show!
#1450
Drill Bit Sharpening / Re: DBS-22 sharpen masonry bits?
January 22, 2013, 10:03:24 AM
Thanks Ken

I'm sure you're right about the "newness". My sense is that it doesn't have much traction in the market yet. Likely combination of the fact it's relatively new plus cost plus narrow area of specialism.

The other generalism seems to be that it is a high quality jig, performs well when then training time is invested (true for all jigs) and produces excellent results.

Thanks for the input
#1451
Drill Bit Sharpening / Re: DBS-22 sharpen masonry bits?
January 21, 2013, 10:09:06 PM
Thanks Herman, I'll have a scoot around and review the threads
#1452
General Tormek Questions / Re: Using leather strop
January 21, 2013, 10:07:20 PM
Hi John

I bought mine from D&M in Twickenham four years ago.  They're a really good team. They also do a woodworking show every year at Kempton Park which has become one of the biggest in the country

I've bought countless machine tools from them over the years including lathes and bandsaws as well as many hand tools.  I rarely find anyone cheaper. Occasionally Axminster are but only for specific deals. Their after sales service is also excellent, I really love the place.

Don't hesitate by the way, I can honestly say that the Tormek has been the singularly most useful addition I ever put in my workshop after the table,band and chopsaws.
#1453
Drill Bit Sharpening / Re: DBS-22 sharpen masonry bits?
January 21, 2013, 07:06:03 PM
Has anyone any hands on with the DBS-22?  I was flirting with the idea of getting one as I do get frustrated at blunt bits and currently just buy more. Trouble is its very expensive and I'd have to go through a lot of drills before it cost justified itself.

People talk about the drill doctor a lot, any comparison type views?
#1454
Drill Bit Sharpening / Re: DBS-22 sharpen masonry bits?
January 20, 2013, 07:07:52 PM
I've not heard that done with the Tormek but my guess would be that the relatively new drill sharpening jig might be the place to start. I know it's primary purpose is to create a four facet point for wood drilling. Masonry bits have extremely hard tips don't they (tungsten carbide???). That's gunna be a pig to sharpen on the regular stone. 

Feel free to jump in any time experts.....I'm really clutching at straws here in an attempt to respond to this chap

#1455
Lets just get a little perspective here. All my little ironic/sarcastic/satirical/lampooning comment (however one chooses to define it) was aiming to do was bring a little much needed levity to a topic that IMO folks are at risk of over analysing.

I'm with Jeff and Herman on this....the fact is the Tormek works to a standard the vast majority of people are not just satisfied but absolutely delighted with.  After a while, the somewhat dogmatic arguments to the contrary suggest the poster may have a different agenda ( like they work for a competitor).

To reiterate Jeff's experience, he's sharpened thousands of people's knives at exhibitions etc where their agenda was to deliberately trip him up....and they were converts to the Tormek.  It works.  End of.