Svd 185 will not let me stay on grindstone when doing a 1/2 Ellsworth grind

[big unit]

I have a new SVD185 with a six on the dail. My stone is 8 5/8" arm is 1 5/8" away from grindstone. When bowl gouge handle goes left, gouge end starts going off the right side of grindstone. Can you help? 

[Jeff Farris]

Are you using a protrusion of 75mm?

[big unit]

Yes protrusion is at 75mm. The guide on the svd 185 needs to be reversed? It is the guide on the 185 that's stopping me to get closer when it is sliding on the tool rest. The tool rest is in the lower position grind stone going away from tool. When tool  handle goes left the sharping end starts at approx. 3/4 from edge of grind stone to continuing the sharping tip leaves the grind stone. At approx. 45% the handle i should stop but the wing is not sharpened complete. Doing something wrong??

[Jeff Farris]

No, I don't think you're doing anything wrong, and I know that the jig hits the inside leg in that operation, but I believe if you watch, the part of the tool that is off the grindstone is above the plane of the grindstone.  That is, it has already rolled up off the stone, so it doesn't matter that it is past the edge.

[onewaywood]

I have a problem doing the same procedure,
it seems awfully awkward doing this grind I wish there was a short video done by Jeff specifically on this grind.
The way I'm doing it cant be correct.

[Jeff Farris]

Guys, I hadn't thought about this until now.

Check to make sure that your jigs have the correct positioning on the arrow.

See this page:  http://www.tormek.com/en/jigs/svd180/svd185_arrow.php

[onewaywood]

Thanks Jeff,,, with my 3/4 inch 23 " long bowl gauge, it is physicaly impossible to do that grind, set at 75mm ,6,A thats what I mean about not understanding.The water tray is in the way of the jig, then when you pass that the wheel is in the way of the jig the handle on the tool is way up in the air   HELP...... a video would probably help a'lot of people that aren't even asking.

[onewaywood]

I guess the best way to explain it is. When set correctly the tool is so far away from the stone it wont even reach it...

[Jeff Farris]

Could you snap a picture of the way you're trying to do it and e-mail it to me? 

jeff at sharp tools usa dot com  (no spaces and @ for at, . for dot)

[onewaywood]

Thanks Jeff, setting aside my type A personality, I figured it out. I won't bore you with the details . Thanks for all your help

  P.S. a video would still be great.............

[onewaywood]

Jeff, when and if you do that short video on the Ellsworth grind please let us know.....   Thanks....

[Kenneth]

I've got the exact same problem !
I would also love to see Jeff or someone else
make that grind ..

wouldn't it be possible to grind it using another setting to achieve
those long sides ?

thanks ..
any help apreciated
you all have a good one

//Kenneth

[Ern]

Same here.

Crown Ellsworth, 5/8".  Just attempting to reproduce the grind it has which I believe is close to the orig geometry.

To complete the grind of the left wing, the jig has to slide further to the left but can't because of the mount bar leg.

No problem with the BGM.

If the tab that connects the clamp mechanism to the sleeve was centred on it I'd say it'd work.

BUT, it all works when the mount bar is in the vertical position.  Jig setting #6, protrusion 75mm, bar distance setting at A.

[rp@woodturning.dk]

I have the same problem with the grind.

[Ern]

K, have just done the inked bevel thing using the jig with the BGM in front of a dry grinder.  Reproducing what's there, which at the tip of the bevel is a few degrees more acute than the original 60º.

The A whole on the setter wouldn't do it.  I set the outside of the mount rod 58mm away from the wheel using the leg of a Vernier caliper pointing to the spindle.  JS 6, P 75.

Worked fine.  The wheel is a Woodcraft diamond #120 and it leaves a nice polish but oddly raises quite a burr.

HTH