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Adjusting stones

Started by Marr, October 19, 2025, 07:33:38 PM

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Marr

Hello! Im new here, please be gentle.

About the adjusting stone, what difference is that from a regular dual grit wetstone?

I was thinking it's maybe useful to have a finer stone just for the
Sj stone? Bad idea? Good idea? I have one that is 1000 and 6000 for example. Never used and never using for manual sharpening.

tgbto

The SJ stone is very fine and also quite fragile. I would dare touch it with anything that isn't reasonably parallel to the USB.

Even when recently trued with the TT-50, it remains quite smooth and polishes well. There are precautions to take (such as never exit the stone with the TT, always hit the shoulders moving into the stone. You can find several posts on this topic.

If you want to grade it as fine as you can, I'd suggest a very fine diamond plate held in place with the SE jig, as seen in Wootz's stone grading videos.

RickKrung

Quote from: tgbto on October 20, 2025, 11:26:48 AMThe SJ stone is very fine and also quite fragile. I would dare touch it with anything that isn't reasonably parallel to the USB.

Even when recently trued with the TT-50, it remains quite smooth and polishes well. There are precautions to take (such as never exit the stone with the TT, always hit the shoulders moving into the stone. You can find several posts on this topic.

If you want to grade it as fine as you can, I'd suggest a very fine diamond plate held in place with the SE jig, as seen in Wootz's stone grading videos.

Many have found that putting a radius (chamfer) on the corners of the SJ stone helps a lot to prevent chipping of the edges, both in sharpening, but more so for truing.  The grading stone works well for creating the radius.  A fine diamond plate (~1000 grit) is what I use for reconditioning the surface of the SJ but I'm not sure that it is coarse enough to put on enough of a radius. The chamfer shown in the image below is barely adequate. 

I have also found that it is possible to exit the edge/side of the SJ wheel while truing, if two things are done:  1) a healthy radius exists and 2) travel speed of the truing tool is VERY slow. 
Quality is like buying oats.  If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price. However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse, that comes at a lower price.

Marr

I was quite unclear. Adjusting was the wrong word maybe.

How do you clean your sj stone?

RickKrung

Quote from: Marr on October 20, 2025, 06:34:05 PMI was quite unclear. Adjusting was the wrong word maybe.

How do you clean your sj stone?

Ah, yes, that is quite a different question. 

I would definitely not use the Tormek grading stone.  Some like the Nagura stones, but I find even them to be too coarse, removing too much SJ wheel material.

Instead, I have been using Sabitoru "rust eraser" pads.  The website linked here shows three grits available, but I've only used two that came in a pack from a different source.  Cleans the surface beautifully, removing nearly all traces of metal and black marker. Images below show before and after cleaning with the Sabitoru pads. 
Quality is like buying oats.  If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price. However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse, that comes at a lower price.

Ken S

 I agree with Rick. I like the rust erasers.

 Ken