Foot Switch

[Gambrell]

Hi all.  I have the T-8 black edition and would like to set up a foot switch to help me flatten the back of my plane blades and chisel on my diamond wheels.  From what I can tell online, there are new safety switches in the newer T-8 models that renders them incompatible with a lot of the common foot switches.  Are there any exceptions?  Any special foot switch out there that does work with the current T-8 model?  If not, anyone have another option to help with flattening the back of these blades? 

Thanks!

[John Hancock Sr]

If you are referring to the new magnetic interlock switches found on modern machinery then no, foot switches will not work on those machines. They work on a combination of relay and switch. The mechanical switch applies power to the relay which in turn powers the machine and holds the switch contacts closed. Once power is removed the relay de-energises and falls open. The only way to turn the machine back on is to physically close the switch again. The idea is that if the machine is running during a power outage then the machine will not come back on if the power is restored. Not that the Tormek would offer any hazard in that situation

I believe that many country's electrical standards now require these switches on new machines. The only way around this is to replace the switch with a non-interlocking switch or to bypass it, both of which could be violating the local electrical standards. Either that or by a second hand model without an interlocking switch.

[RichColvin]

What are you trying to achieve with the foot switch?  Can't you just let it run?

[Gambrell]

Thanks John for the great information.  I learned a great deal from your post.

[Gambrell]

What are you trying to achieve with the foot switch?  Can't you just let it run?

Hi Rich.  It would free up both hands to position the blade flat before starting the wheel lowering the risk of error in engaging the face to the wheel.

[Ken S]

My first Tormek (a 2009 T7) had the original non safety switch. It was stolen shortly after I purchased a foot switch. My replacement T7 had the new safety switch. I am all for safety, and can see the advantage of the safety switch with tools like power saws. For the Tormek, the safety switch regulation seems like overkill, and for chisel backs, an unnecessary nuisance.

Using the side of your diamond wheel, place your support bar in the horizontal sleeves very close to your grinding wheel. If you are fortunate enough to have a helper, hold your chisel on the support bar and against the wheel. Have your helper work your switch.

If you have no helper, do both functions carefully.

From Leonard Lee's Sharpening book, if a new chisel has a "belly" (a convex back), return it. A chisel with a concave back needs only the far edge and the edge near the handle to be coplanar. The middle area of the back may remain convex.

For plane backs, do an online search for David Charlesworth ruler trick.

Ken

[tgbto]

Hi Rich.  It would free up both hands to position the blade flat before starting the wheel lowering the risk of error in engaging the face to the wheel.

I might be wrong, but it seems to me like a very bad idea: the still wheel with no water running over it has a much higher friction coefficient than when it's already running. So there is a much higher risk for the blade to catch, messing up the blade and potentially injuring you.

[Gambrell]

Thanks Ken and tgbto.  I see your point Rich, and great info Ken.  I appreciate it.

[Thy Will Be Done]

Hi Rich.  It would free up both hands to position the blade flat before starting the wheel lowering the risk of error in engaging the face to the wheel.

I might be wrong, but it seems to me like a very bad idea: the still wheel with no water running over it has a much higher friction coefficient than when it's already running. So there is a much higher risk for the blade to catch, messing up the blade and potentially injuring you.

I agree completely, seems like an unnecessary risk.

[Ken S]

I think we are making a tempest in a teapot. I would hold the chisel back against the grinding wheel, resting on the support bar kept close to the grinding wheel. Just before turning on the motor, back off the chisel very slightly, just enough to clear the wheel. I do not see any appreciable risk in catching.

Even if we choose to do the final polishing with a flat stone, the Tormek will do the laborious part of flattening.

Ken