Just bought a SuperGrind 2000, have a few questions

[FFD95]

Greetings all. 
I just picked up a Super grind 2000 at an online auction.  This unit is missing the water tank.  I went to Sharpening supplies and ordered a water trough for the T 4.  I'm guessing I screwed up?  It looks too small to fit, or am I missing something that holds the tank to the base of the unit?

I also have been searching on the Tormek site.  I saw on another post to register the unit, so I can download the users guide, which I didn't receive either. 
After searching high and low on the machine, I'm guessing the SG2000's didn't have serial numbers.  There is a block to select if there is no number, but Im doing something wrong, it won't let me register it. 

I've seen post where people are suggesting just buy a T8.  I'm not sure I'm ready to make that big of an investment, YET!!!  hahaha. I'm not really wanting to sharpen professionally, just take care of my knives and some woodworking tools. 

Thank you for all the help and advice.  Just wanting to try to see if I can get a decent edge on my knives. 

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Brad.

You have hit a few bumps in the road. Be patient, they will soon be behind you.

Here is a link to the water trough you need:

https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Tormek-Advanced-Water-Trough-For-T7-P330.aspx

Tormek makes machines in two sizes. The Super Grind 2000 is an earlier model of the T8 (and T7). It has a 250mm diameter grinding wheel. The smaller machine (T4 and earlier T3) use 200 mm diameter grinding wheels.

The Super Grind 2000 model did predated Tormek's use of serial numbers. Registering your Tormek online is definitely worthwhile. The online handbook is essentially the same over the years, although the latest onlune edition also includes more recent jig and accessory instructions. I downloaded it in the books program of my ipad and refer to it often.

You should also do an online search for "tormek youtube channel". Tormek has recently made quite a number of excellent online classes, including several on knife sharpening.

The T8 is a fine machine; however, I would ignore the advice to "just buy a T8". There are many Super Grinds still giving daily trooper service and will continue to do so. Incidentally, all of the jigs work with all of the models, new and old. Tormek support (support@tormek.se) provides excellent (free) advice. They are located at the factory in Sweden or at Tormek Inc. in Illinois. The support tech may have actually built your Tormek.

Incidentally, "Super Grind" was the name given to the SG-250 aluminum oxide grinding wheels (still the standard grinding wheel) which superseded the original natural sand stone wheels.

Keep us posted and do not be shy about asking questions; that's how we all learn. The marker method will get you up and running quickly with knife sharpening.

Ken

[HedgeStar]

I have a super-grind 2000 and see no reason whatsoever to change it.  Good luck with it, it's a wonderful machine.

[Mander]

Just a note to say these comments were very helpful in my work to start using a SuperGrind 2000 machine we have in our community workshop

[Herman Trivilino]

Just a note to say these comments were very helpful in my work to start using a SuperGrind 2000 machine we have in our community workshop

I also have a SuperGrind 2000 purchased new in 2002. I'm on my third SG-250 grindstone and my third tube of honing compound. Note that if your honing wheel is extremely dried out from not being used for several years, apply a very small amount of mineral oil or the like, but don't overdo it. The honing compound has oil in it, so this is a one-time thing.

As the years passed I noticed improvements in jigs, new jigs, new accessories, and modifications coming out. Some I've purchased but others I've just taken the ideas and used them to modify the existing equipment.

For example, the new truing tool is far superior and very well worth the cost.

Two modifications I made: I hot-glued a couple of neodymium magnets to the outside of the water trough to catch metal filings and prevent them from recirculating.

I modified the Universal Support Bar (USB) by threading the 12-mm shaft, filing flat the side facing the tightening knob, and used bondo to cement a nut into a used juice cap. See the newer Item # TOR-US105 for an understanding of all this.

[Mander]

Herman, Thanks for your thoughts. I will look at the state of the honing wheel and see if some honing compound is needed. I have ordered the new 'US-105 Universal Support with Micro Adjust' and the 'TT50 - Truing and dressing tool'.
Best regards, Richard

[Herman Trivilino]

Herman, Thanks for your thoughts. I will look at the state of the honing wheel and see if some honing compound is needed.

You continuously apply small amounts of honing compound during any sharpening session. A small application of honing compound will, for me, last for about two or three tools before another application.

I was talking about applying a small amount of oil to the leather on the honing wheel. This is done only once for a new honing wheel, but if a honing wheel has been sitting unused for years, it may have dried out and be in need of an application of a small amount of oil. You want the leather to cut the steel, or more specifically, cut the steel burr off the edge. It therefore cannot be saturated with oil. I had too much oil on mine years ago and had to scrape it off. I now know better.

I have ordered the new 'US-105 Universal Support with Micro Adjust' and the 'TT50 - Truing and dressing tool'

Those are both good investments, Richard. If I had it to do it over I would buy a new US-105 rather than modify my older version. But that was 15-20 years ago and I had a different spending mindset in those days.

[John Hancock Sr]

As Herman says you need to look after the honing wheel to ensure a long life.

The reason that you need to refresh the honing compound is that it is designed to use a thin layer of abrasive which quickly wears out (the crystals dull) so constant re-application is required.

As well you need to clean the honing wheel when there is a build up of spent compound. This really only occurs after many hours of use. I use the back of an old knife or similar steel dull edge and scrape the surface as the wheel rotates. This scrapes the spent compound off and you can then re-oil the wheel and it is ready for use.

I picked up a T7 second hand and it was over 10 years old and never maintained. To refresh the honing wheel I;
- applied some belt slip compound to the drive wheel (you can get a spray can of it from your local automotive store)
- scraped it clean using a dull steel edge
- applied Ballistol (light machine oil is also good) to refresh the leather and wiped off the excess
After that it was as good as new.