Tormek 1200 model

[John A]

Hi, this is my first post on the forum.

I'm enjoying getting good, repeatable profiles on my bowl and spindle gouges, though I'm still learning.

My question is whether the diamond wheels (200mm) will fit on my model?  Axminster stock them and I was thinking of buying a 'Fine 600 grit' wheel.

Thanks in advance,

[cbwx34]

Hi, this is my first post on the forum.

I'm enjoying getting good, repeatable profiles on my bowl and spindle gouges, though I'm still learning.

My question is whether the diamond wheels (200mm) will fit on my model?  Axminster stock them and I was thinking of buying a 'Fine 600 grit' wheel.

Thanks in advance,

Yes, that wheel will fit on the 1200.

You might find this video of interest... 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WnHl2xPo3VI

..so might check the shaft of the machine before ordering.

Congrats on your progress!

[John A]

Many thanks cbwx34 for the info and very prompt info and pleased to hear that.

if I need a new main shaft, just wondering whether there's a different length for my older model?

Thanks,
John

[cbwx34]

...
if I need a new main shaft, just wondering whether there's a different length for my older model?

Thanks,
John

The MSK-200 should fit your machine, according to the Tormek page...

https://www.tormek.com/international/en/spare-parts/shafts/msk-200-stainless-steel-shaft/

... (the video I linked to earlier was a 1200 model).

[Ken S]

John,

My first Tormek was a T7 I purchased in 2009. Shortly after I purchased it, Tormek introduced the EZYlock shafts.
My existing shaft was perfectly functional. Tormek had switched to stainless steel shafts in 2006. However, being a Tormek junkie, I wanted to keep my Tormek up to date and ordered the EZYlock shaft kit. Converting my machine made me very aware of two things about Tormek.
1) The outstanding quality of the machining.
2) The simplicity of the machine. I would guess that half the parts could be purchased off the shelf in any good hardware store in Sweden or any metric country. This allows Tormek to maintain reasonable costs without compromising quality. I especially admire Tormek's non obsolescence policy. Any of the current T4 parts will work with your T1200.

Enjoy your Tormek and keep posting.

Ken

[John A]

Hello Ken

Thanks for the info.  I bought my Tormek at a good price then purchased the jigs I need for my woodturning tools.  At some point I'll probably decide to upgrade but having moved home and having a new workshop to fit out it's not a priority for me at the moment, too busy  .  But I do certainly enjoy using my machine to keep my turning tools sharpened and acknowledge the simplicity and most definitely the non-obsolescence of Tormek, as you say.

Appreciate your welcome too.

John

[Ken S]

Hello, John.

It sounds like you are off to a good start with your Tormek. If I might, I would like to share two pieces of advice, both of which I learned the hard way:

Over the years I have had the opportunity to work with several different Tormek models. My favorite Tormek is the one with the wheel I have just trued and dressed. I would not be in a hurry to "upgrade". Experience and a well tuned grinding wheel will carry the day. Maintain your main shaft. Most importantly, don't leave your grinding wheel wet in the water trough when you are between sharpening sessions. Inspect and clean your shaft two or three times a year. Make sure your nylon bushings have a little grease. Shafts made before 2006 were made of regular (non stainless) steel. With just a little extra love, they give years of service. If your shaft is clean, a better use for your money would be the much improved TT-50 truing tool and US-103 support bar with microadjust. Either version of the TT-50 will work, although I would favor the latest (2019) version. The revision corrected a possible bounce issue. If you happen to have the older version and notice bouncing, two small plastic electrical ties make quick work of fixing the problem.
The microadjust feature makes truing much easier.
I learned through experience that frequent, very light truing keeps away a lot of gremlins.

My other suggestion comes from the first time I sharpened my skew. I made the mistake of thinking that the skew angle would match the skew angle programmed into the TTS-100 set up tool. When I realized the two angles didn't match, I foolishly decided just to grind through. This was very time consuming and frustrating, especially with a high speed steel turning tool. If I had it to do over, I would use my black marker and match skew and bevel angles. Instead of grinding away, I would be turning with a sharp skew. Sharp is sharp, and the wood is not fussy about exact angles. (Eventually, I would gradually tweak the angles toward Tormek's recommended settings over several sharpenings.)

Good luck and keep us posted.

Ken

[John A]

Thanks again Ken, really useful info for me.

Kind regards
John