It's official! My T-8 arrived!

[3D Anvil]

After much research and hemming and hawing, I finally bit the bullet and bought a T-8 with the tool jig kit.  UPS didn't deliver it until around 9pm (!), but I got everything set up and dipped my toe (and heel) in the water ... so to speak.

Very pleased with my first results!  I sharpened a couple cheapo kitchen knives at 15dps.  After deburring freehand on the leather wheel, both knives scored around 145 BESS.  I then power stropped on the Ken Onion Belt Grinder with leather belts (1 micron compound and plain leather) and the scores dropped to 110-115 BESS.  Pretty respectable for a first outing, I think. 

Definitely need to work on the appearance of the bevel, as I managed to put some ugly little gouges in the middle of the blade.

I also managed to screw up my stone grader by stupidly trying to knock down the corners of the stone with the fine side instead of the rough side.  I don't think it's affecting the performance too much, but I guess I'll have to lap it flat when I get a chance.

I also managed to get my T-shirt sucked into the water trough.   

Much practice needed.

[tim]

Good choice, wish I would have bought the not T8. T4 works ok. I too have dunked my
t - shirt. As recently as yesterday sharpening fabric scissors.

[3D Anvil]

T-4 has some real advantages, though -- namely, cost savings.  That's especially true if you buy additional wheels. 

A few newbie questions:

1.  Do y'all leave your wheel soaking overnight, or do you empty the trough at the end of the day?

2.  Am I correct in thinking that, if you use the angle master on the primary grind instead of the edge bevel, the angle set on the angle master must be the desired edge angle + primary grind angle?  For example, if I want a 15 dps edge, and the primary grind is at 2 deg., I would set the angle master to 17 deg.?

3.  Has anyone experimented with dressing stones to set the grit of the SG-250/200 to a grit equivalent between 200 & 1000?  For example, I'm thinking that 400 might be a good grit for dull knives that don't need reprofiling.

[Ken S]

Well done, 3D! You are off to a great start.

I'll take a stab at questions one and three:
1) No. Don't leave your SG soaking overnight. I normally remove it after the sharpening session to let it dry, dump and clean the water trough. Removing the wheel isn't really necessary; it is just a habit with me. You should lower the water trough at the very least. I just feel better working with clean water.

3) In my opinion, the 220/1000 concept is just a simplified learning tool. I think of it as "coarser and finer". There is also a "600 grit" designation. The number is a guess. What it really is is a useful middle grit.

I don't happen to use the Anglemaster with knives, so I can't help you there.

Keep us posted.

Ken

[cbwx34]

...
2.  Am I correct in thinking that, if you use the angle master on the primary grind instead of the edge bevel, the angle set on the angle master must be the desired edge angle + primary grind angle?  For example, if I want a 15 dps edge, and the primary grind is at 2 deg., I would set the angle master to 17 deg.?
...

That is correct...

What Angle is this Knife sharpened at?

... that's why a calculator is more better. 

[3D Anvil]

That is correct...

What Angle is this Knife sharpened at?

... that's why a calculator is more better. 

Thank you.  I will very likely move to a more precise method soon.  I figured it would be good to learn the basics first. 

[cbwx34]

Thank you.  I will very likely move to a more precise method soon.  I figured it would be good to learn the basics first.

I don't consider the AngleMaster "learning the basics", I consider it all but obsolete.   And while "calculator" may imply advanced, or more precise, I see it simply as a better way.

If "calculator" is a turn off for anyone (not necessarily you), I'd look at something like Ken's Kenjig method.

You learned in a day the shortcoming of the AM measuring knife angles, for all but barely tapered sides (and I'll add even then, not all that accurate).

[3D Anvil]

I don't consider the AngleMaster "learning the basics", I consider it all but obsolete.   And while "calculator" may imply advanced, or more precise, I see it simply as a better way.

If "calculator" is a turn off for anyone (not necessarily you), I'd look at something like Ken's Kenjig method.

You learned in a day the shortcoming of the AM measuring knife angles, for all but barely tapered sides (and I'll add even then, not all that accurate).

At the moment I'm limited in the sense that I don't have a suitably large set of calipers, so no calculator for me right now.  I think I'm going to get one of those Ultimate Angle Tools when the guy who makes them has them back in stock (supposed to be next week). 

The angle master is a bit imprecise, but once you know the trick it's not too bad.  I have a laser goniometer, so it's easy enough to get the primary grind angle.

[cbwx34]

At the moment I'm limited in the sense that I don't have a suitably large set of calipers, so no calculator for me right now.  I think I'm going to get one of those Ultimate Angle Tools when the guy who makes them has them back in stock (supposed to be next week). 

The angle master is a bit imprecise, but once you know the trick it's not too bad.  I have a laser goniometer, so it's easy enough to get the primary grind angle.

A large caliper, I'm guessing for the wheel?  You don't need one.  I know a lot was made in the beginning that measurements needed to be made to decimal point accuracy, but that's not necessary.  A simple metric ruler can measure the wheel, and something like a combination square can set the USB height.

Even knowing the taper angle of the knife, I still think the AM is not all that accurate.

[3D Anvil]

Combination square is a great idea.  Why didn't I think of that?  Just ordered a 12"/300mm that can be used to measure both the wheel and the USB height.

[TireguyfromMA]

You can pick up a 12" digital vernier caliper at HF for about $54.  Just bought one a couple weeks ago. 

[Dutchman]

I know a lot was made in the beginning that measurements needed to be made to decimal point accuracy, but that's not necessary.  A simple metric ruler can measure the wheel, and something like a combination square can set the USB height.

"In the beginning" it was as simple as this and sufficiently accurate:

[Ken S]

Well spoken.

Ken

[John_B]

Another easy way to determine the wheel diameter is to use a piece of string to measure the diameter and divide the diameter by 3.14.

I find using the formula takes less time and is more consistent than using the Anglemaster.

[RickKrung]

"In the beginning" it was as simple as this and sufficiently accurate:

Doesn't get any more simple or more accurate. 

Rick