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New to the Tormek Fam!!

Started by ycastane, December 03, 2020, 06:54:00 AM

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ycastane

I am getting my T8 and i've been doing some reading through the different threads here. I've looked at some videos from Wootz as well as looking at the ones from Tormek.

My question at the current moment is in regards to the ken Jig. I remember a while back there were post showing the block and ruler construction to measure the 139mm. Now i see that there is a new modified jig for T7 & T4 but i cannot find any reference to the old wood block construction.

I have to read the PDF again but so far i didn't get anything in relation to building specs.

Need some advise and directions from the very knowledgeable community.

Thanks,

micha

Welcome to the forum.

Are you looking for that one? https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3853.0

Depending on the tools you have it's pretty easy to make one for yourself.
Things to remember: Don't make the "block" too flat, so it will give enough room for the collar, and don't put the ruler too high, so that the knife is still kept flat on the block.
If you need more details, feel free to ask.

Mike

Dutchman

Quote from: ycastane on December 03, 2020, 06:54:00 AM
...
I have to read the PDF again but so far i didn't get anything in relation to building specs.
...
The Kenjig and also the software of 'Wootz' is based on the math presented in the documents that you can find via the link in the 'signature' below.  ;)

Ken S

Welcome to the forum, Yaxel.

The giant leap in setting uniform knife bevel angles occurred when Dutchman posted his grinding angles booklet on the forum in 2014. Before Dutchman's work, we used either trial and error or matched whatever angle the knife happened to have. Dutchman made the process accurate, repeatable, and efficient. Dutchman's work is the basis for the kenjig, its variations, and the other computer based programs.

Some explanatory information about the kenjig: It is designed to measure Distance and Projection (often called Protrusion). Distance is the measurement between the top of the universal support bar and the edge of the grinding wheel. Projection is the measurement from the adjustable stop of the knife jig to the edge of the knife. 139mm is in the middle of a few millimeter range which the adjustable stop can handle with most kitchen and other knives. Matching Distance and Projection for the desired bevel angle from Dutchman's tables provides the jig set up. The kenjig is simply a tool which "stores" this information.

Borrowing a title from Shakespeare, in my opinion, most of the advanced improvements beyond this for most users are "Much Ado About Almost Nothing". Much has been written about wheel wear and multiple wheels with different diameters. The only wheels which wear down are the SG, SB, and SJ. For most of us, this wear is very gradual. Diamond and CBN wheels do not change diameter. Some older designs of CBN wheels have a diameter of ten inches (253mm), a needless, foolish complication. Diamond wheels and the latest design of CBN wheels (pioneered by Wootz) are a consistent 250mm.

Knife blades are not high precision interchangeable parts. The small angle change from gradual wear of the wheel is not significant. For a typical user, whose wheel may last several years, this is generally not a problem.

Distance is measured from the grinding wheel with the kenjig. Measuring this way, no compensation is needed between the T8, T7, or older 250mm wheel models. The plywood base of the kenjig provides a more stable, large footprint measuring tool than a digital depth gage used to measure to the frame.

The measuring block is a good idea; however, I have not needed anything more than a pencil line.

Please do not misunderstand me. I do not mean to be critical of the more advanced sharpening set up programs. They bring marvelous precision to knife sharpening. I just do not find them necessary for my knife sharpening.

Ken

cbwx34

Quote from: ycastane on December 03, 2020, 06:54:00 AM
I am getting my T8 and i've been doing some reading through the different threads here. I've looked at some videos from Wootz as well as looking at the ones from Tormek.

My question at the current moment is in regards to the ken Jig. I remember a while back there were post showing the block and ruler construction to measure the 139mm. Now i see that there is a new modified jig for T7 & T4 but i cannot find any reference to the old wood block construction.

I have to read the PDF again but so far i didn't get anything in relation to building specs.

Need some advise and directions from the very knowledgeable community.

Thanks,

What are you referring to (the part in bold)?  Maybe another, I'm not awake yet moment... but what's modified?  If you're talking about different calculators for the different machines (as in KnifeGrinder's calculator), these don't apply to the Kenjig, since the Kenjig measures directly to the wheel.

Quote from: Ken S on December 03, 2020, 12:04:29 PM
...
The measuring block is a good idea; however, I have not needed anything more than a pencil line.
...
Ken

Ken is right in this regard... there is a bit of "over emphasis" on needing/making precision measuring devices.  A simple ruler will suffice.  Consistency is just as important (if not more) than accuracy.

Quote from: Ken S on December 03, 2020, 12:04:29 PM
...
Please do not misunderstand me. I do not mean to be critical of the more advanced sharpening set up programs. They bring marvelous precision to knife sharpening. I just do not find them necessary for my knife sharpening.

Ken

It's not about "precision" as much as it is about versatility... not being tied to one angle, one Projection Distance, etc.  ::)  ;)   
Knife Sharpening Angle Calculator:
Calcapp Calculator-works on any platform.
(or Click HERE to see other calculators available)

Ken S

CB makes a good point about versatility. I have never felt tied to one angle or Distance/Projection. I use my 15° kenjig for my workaday knife sharpening. When I needed to sharpen my Chinese cleaver, I just made a separate cardboard kenjig for my cleaver. (I normally use Baltic birch plywood scraps for kenjigs.) For limited use, the cardboard cleaver should last my lifetime. In fact, making a cardboard kenjig is a good no cost way to try it out.
I originally made up two kenjigs, one for 15° and one for 20°. They are quick, easy and inexpensive to make. I don't sharpen hunting knives, so I have never used the 20° kenjig. I have thought about trying 12°. How many of us would need more than two or three kenjigs?
For the record, I have CB's Calcapp program on my ipad.It is a good program; I like it. It is a good tool to help set up a kenjig.

Ken

ycastane

Quote from: micha on December 03, 2020, 09:19:51 AM
Welcome to the forum.

Are you looking for that one? https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3853.0

Depending on the tools you have it's pretty easy to make one for yourself.
Things to remember: Don't make the "block" too flat, so it will give enough room for the collar, and don't put the ruler too high, so that the knife is still kept flat on the block.
If you need more details, feel free to ask.

Mike

Indeed i was. Thank you very much sir!!!