Using The US-103 Universal Support On The T4 With The Leather Honing Wheel

[jasonstone20]

I have had some issues with using the US-103 Universal Support on the T4 with the Leather Honing Wheel.  There just isn't enough space to use it with the SG-200 stone attached, so I use the space that the machine comes with and the screw cap attached.  I also have to remove the knobs that tighten down the US-103 Universal Support while honing, relying on gravity and the micro-adjustment knob to keep it in place.  Since the Leather Honing Wheel is 5" (140mm) compared to the SG-200 stone at 8" (200mm), I have to re-adjust the US-103 Universal Support to hit the edge when using the Leather Honing Wheel.  I get way better results with using the US-103 Universal Support with the Leather Honing Wheel vs freehand on the Leather Honing Wheel.   Is there a better way to go about this?

[RickKrung]

I think not.  That is the same as with the T8, for the most part.  It is common practice to use some sort of spacer on the stone side axle in order to remove the stone for honing.  I have not fount it necessary to remove the knobs, but it has been so long that I've been using the Frontal Vertical Base on the horizontal guides that I don't now know whether I'd have to remove the knobs. 

I suggest you try using 6mm set screws (often referred to as "grub screws") in place of those knobs to solve the interference and still be able to lock the USB in place. 

Rick

[jasonstone20]

Thank you, I will look for some of those screws. I think I we also try using the honing wheel with the US-103 Universal Support in the vertical position, using the back end of the wheel like some people do instead on the FVB.  I need to make or buy a FVB type unit, it will make my life easier.

[RickKrung]

Thank you, I will look for some of those screws. ...

In the USA, most chain hardware stores have selections of metric screws.  I believe you need M6x1 thread size, not sure of how long, but no longer than the depth of the USB sleeve. 

...  I think I we also try using the honing wheel with the US-103 Universal Support in the vertical position, using the back end of the wheel like some people do instead on the FVB....

DO NOT DO THIS!  If you mean on top of the wheel.  Using the honing wheel from the vertical USB position with the knife edge on top of the honing wheel will result in the honing wheel traveling INTO the edge (referred to as edge leading).  This is very dangerous as the wheel will grab the edge and throw the knife back - directly at you. 

If you mean using the rear, lower side of the honing wheel (as you state), perhaps so, but that would be very awkward unless you tip the machine over/forward.  I know using the grinding wheel like this was once suggested, but I've not heard of anyone actually using it this way. 

Set screws should resolve the interference problem but you will likely find the FVB to be a better solution, and in the long run more functional as it allows more setup flexibility. 

Rick

[jasonstone20]

In the USA, most chain hardware stores have selections of metric screws.  I believe you need M6x1 thread size, not sure of how long, but no longer than the depth of the USB sleeve. 

Thank you, I will look for some of those screws. ...

...  I think I we also try using the honing wheel with the US-103 Universal Support in the vertical position, using the back end of the wheel like some people do instead on the FVB....

DO NOT DO THIS!  If you mean on top of the wheel.  Using the honing wheel from the vertical USB position with the knife edge on top of the honing wheel will result in the honing wheel traveling INTO the edge (referred to as edge leading).  This is very dangerous as the wheel will grab the edge and throw the knife back - directly at you. 

Yes, I am not doing this one, it would be bad!

If you mean using the rear, lower side of the honing wheel (as you state), perhaps so, but that would be very awkward unless you tip the machine over/forward.  I know using the grinding wheel like this was once suggested, but I've not heard of anyone actually using it this way. 

Yes, this is what I am doing.  I have a stand were I can be over the machine.

Set screws should resolve the interference problem but you will likely find the FVB to be a better solution, and in the long run more functional as it allows more setup flexibility. 

Rick

Thank you, that is the information I was needing!

[Ken S]

Good questions, Jason.

The Tormek program with the T4 is to grind using the vertical position and hone freehand. This is described in the handbook.

HOWEVER:

This not the only way to work. I was curious to see if I could sharpen long knives with my T4. I purchased a Victorinox ten inch chef's knife for the test. A knife this long required using the larger US-430 support bar, as it does with the T8.
I prefer to grind using the horizontal position. (There is no problem when using the vertical position.)

The plastic locking knobs on the jig and the horizontal sleeves will not allow the jig to slide on the support bar. As Rick stated, you need M6 x 1 socket set screws. 10 mm length works well. You will need a minimum of three. These are inexpensive. You could also do this with a Front Vertical Base, although at much greater cost.

Using the socket set screws, there is no problem using the horizontal position for either honing or grinding.

You will also need to grind or file off a small bit of the jig. This does not effect the structural integrity of the jig.

Start by purchasing the socket set screws at your local hardware store $5 US should cover the expense. You can always add the US-430 later if you find yourself sharpening long knives.

Make sure to use a spacer if you remove thr grinding wheel.

Ken