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New Guy, Old Gear Snagged

Started by jtyson, April 12, 2020, 09:34:18 AM

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jtyson

So, admittedly, I bought this stuff off Craigslist about 2 years ago and it has been sitting on the work bench waiting for me to spend some time figuring it out. I just jumped on it not really knowing much about it. At $260 it seemed like a good deal with all the extra stuff. Then I paid another $60 or so for the honing wheel. I hope to use it for sharpening all sorts of goodies. I've got a lathe and a ton of tools, lots of chisels, pocket knives, kitchen knives, and maybe some straight razors if this is up to that much precision.

I've been watching some videos and reading the paperwork I've got. It is a SuperGrind 2000 I guess. No idea how old. Came with a bunch of jigs, I've figured out what some are, and others not yet. I've numbered photos. If you guys can clue me in to my missing stuff, that would be cool.

1. Turning tool jig
2. ???
3. Small knife holder
4. Large knife holder
5. ???
6. ???
7. Dressing stone (broken I know, but appears to have been used that way for some time)
8. Truing tool
9. Honing Paste
10. Axe/Hatchet tool
11. Extra small knife holder
12. Straight edge jig
13. ???
14. ??? - This one has a part number so I can google it, just haven't yet.
15. Knife holder? Maybe use with 5 or 6?
16. ???
17. Standard tool rest
18. Planer blade jig

There is also another truing tool that I didn't get in the picture, but it is just the diamond piece on a piece of stock with a hole through it. Don't know how it would be used.

I'm sure there are some other tools that I probably need. I have two of the plastic setting tools that I don't really understand how to use. But I think I need another different kind for gouges and turning tools?

I've got a new honing wheel to put on there. I think after watching videos I will probably need to order the honing tool for getting the insides of bowl gouges and V carving tools.

Anything else you guys can think of? My first function will be to try to fix some badly marred chisels. Then I'm gonna give some cheap kitchen knives a shot. See how much I can screw things up there before I jump into my skews and bowl gouges and such.

Trying to upload pictures but the system doesn't seem to like photos.




Ken S

Welcome to the forum, Jeremiah.

The first order of business for you is to register your Tormek on the Tormek website (tormek.com). Click on the top right "my Tormek" and then "register my Tormek". Although your T2000 has aged out of the warranty, once you register it you can download the online version of the handbook. I keep this in the books program of my ipad and refer to it frequently. I have read it several times over the years and would recommend the same to you. It was written by Torgny Jansson, the inventor of the Tormek many years ago. Except for descriptions of new jigs and accessories, it is essentially the same now as when it came with your T 2000.

The website is very informative, as is the Tormek Sharpening Systems you tube channel. Be sure to enjoy the friends videos.

Make a note of the support email address (support@tormek.se). Tormek's support service is stellar. He has been with Tormek since long before your T2000. There is no charge for the service, and you literally have a friend at the factory. I email support frequently.

A very few purchase suggestions for you:
The Woodturner's Information Box. This contains a DVD and a book. IMHO, the DVD is Tormek's finest video by a wide margin. It was made (using a T2000) by Jeff Farris, one of the most knowledgeable Tormek experts on the planet and also a very experienced, passionate turner. (Jeff also founded this forum.) The DVD is very well organized by tool types. Each tool type is covered by sharpening and using sections. The book is a comprehensive reference written by Torgny Jansson. At only around $30 US, this is a bargain and is a must have for turners using a Tormek.

You will need a TT-50 truing tool. The older TT-50 version is fine if you already have one. If you purchase one, be sure to get the 2019 revision. If the diamond in the antique version in your photos is still good, you can save some money by purchasing the TT-50U model, the U standing for Upgrade. It lets you transfer the diamond from your older unit and is only about 2/3 of the cost. There are many pre 2019 versions still for sale. You will want the latest version. This is a case where your best bet will be dealing with a very knowledgeable Tormek dealer, such as Advanced Machinery or Sharpening Supplies. (The same advice applies with the SVD-186R).

You mention needing a jig for turning gouges. Tormek has been redesigning and upgrading the jigs. In most cases, the older jigs still work fine. The SVD-186R is the exception. The older SVD-185 was the state of the art. The new version is substantially better in several ways. The R for Revised includes a rotation lock, a nice to have but not essential feature for carving tools. A good used SVD-186 is fine. If you purchase new, go for the SVD-186R.

That's enough purchase items for now. Enjoy your Tormek and don't hesitate to ask questions.

Ken

Ken S

Jeremiah,
Upon further examination of your photos, number 8 is the TT-50. No need to replace it.
Ken

jtyson

Ken, I appreciate the thorough response. I have registered the unit with Tormek, got the handbook and I'm thumbing through it.

I am a bit of a crash course sort of guy, and didn't want to just read and watch videos, so today I decided to bolt things up, get it wet and turn it on to see if I could make a couple very ugly chisels and knives any more functional. Well, I think I have a problem or two with the unit. I didn't tear anything apart, but I took a short video to show my issue.

I tried running the truing tool, and it just wasn't right. I thought maybe the wheel was WAY out of round, but I think the shaft or maybe bushings/bearings may be bad. And the drive wheel, it is messed up. I've attached that picture too. Any pressure applied to either wheel results in a centrifugal "clunk, clunk, clunk" as if something is slipping or dropping.

Tell me what you guys think? I'll be doing some searching too.

https://youtu.be/pw6GZJVViL4 - tried embedding the video but that doesn't seem to work. Sorry for the link.


GeoTech

The clunk, clunk, clunk could be the rubber drive wheel has an indentation in it from lack of use. The drive wheel may need to be replaced.

Ken S

Jeremiah,
If you happen to live in the US, I would suggest you contact Tormek, Inc. in Illinois:

Tormek Inc.
900 Oakmont Ln, Suite 300
Westmont, IL 60559

Tel: +1 331 401 1300
info@tormek.com
support@tormek.com
www.tormek.com

If you live outside the US, I would contact Tormek support (support@tormek.se). I would consult them before I started ordering parts.

Keep us posted.

Ken

RichColvin

#6
Jeremiah,

Here's what you have :

1. SVD-185 Turning Jig -- I'd keep this, but get the replacement SVD-186 or SVD-186R.  The SVD-186 is significantly better.  The base of the SVD-185 is great for sharpening carbide cutters like those used in hollowing tools.

2. This is part of the ADV-50D diamond truing tool.  It goes with the item you noted as :  "There is also another truing tool that I didn't get in the picture, but it is just the diamond piece on a piece of stock with a hole through it."   It was replaced by TT-50, and none too soon. 

3. That is an SVM-45 knife jig

4. That is an SVM-100 or SVM-140 long knife jig (The SVM-100 was replaced by SVM-140, but works fine)

5 & 15.  These are the SVX-150 scissors jig.

6. SVD-110 tool rest

7. SP-650 stone grader.  You should order a new one.

8. TT-50 truing tool

9. (honing compound)

10. SVA-170 axe jig

11. SVM-00 small knife jig

12. SVH-60 straight edge jig.  It was replaced by SE-77, but is worth keeping.  I use mine often for chisels that are short.

13 & 14.  SVS-50 multi jig

16. SVS-32 short tool jig.  It was replaced by SVS-38, but is worth keeping.

Good luck.

Kind regards,
RIch
---------------------------
Rich Colvin
www.SharpeningHandbook.info - a reference guide for sharpening

You are born weak & frail, and you die weak & frail.  What you do between those is up to you.

jtyson

#7
GeoTech, no indentation on the tire.

Ken, thank you for the contact info. I may reach out to them. I'm not used to being able to contact a vendor with questions about a used item. That is typically why I spend time on forums, so I can get info from the collective.

Rich, thank you for going through and breaking each down for me.

I've been watching multiple youtube videos of people sharpening and it seems as though everyone's walks side to side a little, and plenty up and down a bit. I feel like this is probably a combo of loosely fitting plastic sleeves instead of proper bearings and the stone pulling down against them.

I'm interested to see if there are any alloy or stainless drive wheels, sealed bearings or other upgrades out there. Or if those would just be a waste of money.

I'm trying evaluate my situation here. I pulled it apart today. The shaft has a little pitting where the stone sits. It has some wear in the spot where the bearings sit. I put it in my old southbend lathe and spun it by hand and I can see that it is out of round by a few hundredths, but with the sloppy bearings, I don't know if that much really matters. The drive wheel is cracked and the slot where the pin fits is definitely damaged enough to be causing the clunk I think.

So, considering the parts I need, I'm going to price things and see where I'm at. I don't want to dump so much money into it that I could just buy another one.

RickKrung

jtyson,

Welcome to the forum.  I think you will really like your Tormek for all that you have to use it on.  If you grind HSS toolbits for your South Bend, look for Rich Colvin's platform jig for grinding/polishing them on the Tormek.  It should be in his Sharpening Handbook (link in his signature line?).  I haven't made one yet (I use nearly exclusively carbide inserts, except for cutoff tools) but it looks really handy. 

Based on the condition of your shaft and probably the nylon bushings, I think an upgrade to the stainless steel shaft and EZ-Lock nut is in order.  There are no "proper bearings" for any of these machines.  It grates me that there aren't, but the nylon bushing seem to do okay and given the low rpms that makes some sense. 

Once you use the truing tool to clean up the outer diameter of the stone, which trues it, you will eliminate that out of roundness and will be in good shape.  The side-to-side wobble is annoying but does not really adversely affect the sharpening processes. 

Good luck and keep us informed, particularly as you work though various tools you sharpen.

Rick

BTW, I didn't hear the clunk, clunk, clunk in the video. 
Quality is like buying oats.  If you want nice, clean, fresh oats, you must pay a fair price. However, if you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse, that comes at a lower price.

jtyson

Quote from: RickKrung on April 15, 2020, 06:22:54 AM
jtyson,

Welcome to the forum.  I think you will really like your Tormek for all that you have to use it on.  If you grind HSS toolbits for your South Bend, look for Rich Colvin's platform jig for grinding/polishing them on the Tormek.  It should be in his Sharpening Handbook (link in his signature line?).  I haven't made one yet (I use nearly exclusively carbide inserts, except for cutoff tools) but it looks really handy. 

Based on the condition of your shaft and probably the nylon bushings, I think an upgrade to the stainless steel shaft and EZ-Lock nut is in order.  There are no "proper bearings" for any of these machines.  It grates me that there aren't, but the nylon bushing seem to do okay and given the low rpms that makes some sense. 

Once you use the truing tool to clean up the outer diameter of the stone, which trues it, you will eliminate that out of roundness and will be in good shape.  The side-to-side wobble is annoying but does not really adversely affect the sharpening processes. 

Good luck and keep us informed, particularly as you work though various tools you sharpen.

Rick

BTW, I didn't hear the clunk, clunk, clunk in the video.

Honestly I've never used the lathe, so it hadn't occurred to me to sharpen tools for it on the tormek. Maybe someday!

I ordered the new shaft and new zinc drive wheel. No clue when it will actually get here. Don't know that I'll try sharpening anything else until it does. And I don't think truing the wheel on the old shaft would make much sense.

As to the clunking noise, it is more audible when a tool is on the wheel. Running free it is there, but the mic on my phone probably didn't pick it up.

So for now, I wait.

Ken S

Jeremiah,
I just sent you a forum message. Please check your messages.
Thanks,
Ken

RichColvin

I replaced the drive shaft on my T2000, and the upgrade is certainly worthwhile.  I had to later replace the drive wheel as mine was cracked after 16 yrs of use. 

I don't think you will go wrong with replacing these two.

Rich
---------------------------
Rich Colvin
www.SharpeningHandbook.info - a reference guide for sharpening

You are born weak & frail, and you die weak & frail.  What you do between those is up to you.

jtyson

Rich,

I should hope it is a worthy upgrade. I definitely wasn't happy with the amount of walk there was on the other setup. So hoping these parts remedy that. I tried running the truing tool on it and it just wouldn't square it up, so hopefully I get better results. Tracking says delivery Thursday, so hopefully be able to give it a test this weekend.

RichColvin

Please let us know how it goes.
---------------------------
Rich Colvin
www.SharpeningHandbook.info - a reference guide for sharpening

You are born weak & frail, and you die weak & frail.  What you do between those is up to you.

jtyson

Well...I got the new wheel and the new shaft in. Installed.

Then ran the truing tool. Immediately screwed that up. Forgot to tighten it onto the tool rest so it bit in really hard and I had to take off a fair amount of wheel to get it back to true. While running the truing tool, due to the lack of concentricity I had to run the tool VERY slow multiple times. about 5 passes taking about 2-3 minutes each. Finally, got the wheel true. I will say, I don't know if my truing tool is worn out, or it is just the design, but that thing leaves the wheel seriously rough.

So then I used the  dressing stone on the rough side to smooth it out. I don't know if you're supposed to do that or not, considering my dressing stone is heavily concave on the smooth polish side, and basically unused on the other side, but I did it that way and it seemed to work.

Then I gave it a run on a very old, cheap poorly ground, misshapen pocket knife my dad had. I set the angle at 20 degrees and went to town. I got the knife much sharper than it started. But I did not fix the shape of the blade as I was trying to, and I rounded the corners on the stone, so I will have to true it again to get it square. Definitely take some serious practice to use this thing proper.

Think I will spend some more time watching videos before I ruin anything lol.