Sharpening Abused Chisels

[John_B]

I was sharpening some chisels that had seen better days recently and I had a couple of thoughts as I entered a Zen like mood.

First, I can see why Ken recommends starting off on chisels. Having the longer edge to look at while you sharpen makes it easier than a knife to assess your work and they are fun. Secondly it is very easy to feel the burr as you progress and this is also good if you do not have much experience with burrs on an edge. As I mentioned in another thread there was a stark contrast between the new edge and the rest of the chisels and I had second thoughts about not cleaning them up. 

My last thought centers around resharpening these chisels at some point. I think it would be very useful to measure the blade protrusion from the jig and the height of the support bar. This would allow you to exactly replicate the setup and possible save some grinding time.

[Ken S]

John,

We think alike. What later evolved into my kenjig started originally with chisels. In my case, I happened to have a TTS-100 setting tool for turning chisels. This marvelous tool, in my opinion, is Tormek's vost advanced and versatile tool. Used with the 186 gouge jig, I think it is Tormek's most advanced combination setting tool/jig.

The TTS-100 has two small wheels, which make it self correcting for wheel diameter changes, including switching between the T8 and T4 with no adjustment needed! I set up the TTS-100 using the closer hole. This became my standard Distance for chisels. For the first chisel sharpened at 25°, or any other setting, duch as 30° for A2 chisels, I use the Distance setting and adjust the Projection with the Anglemaster. It is a little clumsy this way, however, it is only done once. I place a blank piece of white label tape in one of the three slots and make a line with an extra fine Sharpie. This is market "25°".

For all future chisel shsrpening, the distance is set one time only for a sharpening session. Chisel Prejection is matched with the Sharpie line. With a little practice you can "eyeball" the Projection to within 1/16" or 1mm.

It is fast and everything is consistent. This method works fir plane irons, too.

Aren't chisels fun to sharpen! 

Ken

ps, Since the square edge jig only works in the vertical position, if you have a second universal support bar, you can use this method to preset it to the leather honing wheel. It's fast and consistent. If you are concerned about rounding over your edge with the leather honing wheel, preset the sevond usb to polish the bevel and use a small ceramic stone to polish the back. Just lay the stone on your bench and pivot the chisel back flat, starting with the middle. You can go back and forth in complete alignment.