Long term storage

[Robert Fisher]

I have recently gotten back into my wood working after about a 10 year pause.  Dusting off all the tools and getting shop back in order.
The Tormek (2000) had its cover on and when I got it out to dusted it off it still looked like new.  When I turned it on there was an obvious thump after each rotation.
Broke the machine down and it was clear, the drive wheel sitting there for years with the grinding wheel weight, developed a divet agains the motor shaft.  Totally understandable. Not complaining about this at all.

My question is, if you do not use the machine often, should this be normal practice to disengage the drive wheel from the motor shaft? 


Thanks for any ideas/suggestions.

[Ken S]

Robert,
You are an excellent candidate for an EZYlock replacement shaft. The kit comes with all the hardware you need, including new bushings. (New "dry side" nuts are not included, as shaft replacement is normally done after a rust problem. All Tormek shafts since 2006 are stainless steel.)

I normally remove my grinding wheel after sharpening. I place a plastic spacer, either the otiginal Tormek or one of the numerous ones I have made from plastic pipe, to keep the shaft from sliding. I suspect my wheel removal policy is overkill, but I feel better doing it. I would certainly recommend removing the wheel before storage.

Ken

[cbwx34]

I think he means it created a depression in the drive wheel... a new replacement shaft won't fix that.

I've had this happen to mine... unless it's causing an obvious problem, usually when it runs for a while it'll work itself out.

[Ken S]

Good catch, CB. I should not reply before having my morning coffee. 
Ken

[Twisted Trees]

I think any long term storage should require weights to be removed from shafts, and bits smeared in protective coating.. problem is only 1 in a 100 are planned long term storage, most are "can't get out there this month", then it goes on and evolves into long term.

Think new drive wheel is the only solution, though you could soak it in a nice light oil see it it can be restored.

[RickKrung]

...snip...
Think new drive wheel is the only solution, though you could soak it in a nice light oil see it it can be restored.

CB may be right that running it for a while may work it out.  If not, I think you could be right about a replacement drive wheel, or at least the rubber drive ring, if that is replaceable.  I am not sure that soaking it in oil is a good idea.  I think I would try a judicious application of heat on the offending area, via a carefully control heat gun, could relax the compressed rubber. 

However, I believe this is a perfect question for Tormek support.  They must have run into this and should have about the best perspective on how to fix it. 

Rick

[Ken S]

If, by chance, you might need to replace the rubber drive wheel, here is a link:

https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/products/0023-drive-wheel

Advanced Machinery is the main source for Tormek parts in North Anerica. However, I think our members have come up with some good reasons to persevere with your bumpy drive wheel. I like the controlled heat idea and running the motor for a while. Maybe some Tormek magic will happen; it's worth a try!

Incidentally, the rubber drive wheel is the new and really improved model. It is metal instead of plastic. While most of the old plastic models are still in service, enough of them developed cracks for a redesign.

Keep us posted; this could effect many of us......

Ken

[cbwx34]

One thing I didn't notice when I changed the shaft on my SG2K... is it isn't setup to work with the older drive wheel.  I guess the earlier shafts had 2 pre-drilled holes for the locking pin... the newer ones just have one, and the instructions say to either buy a new drive wheel, or drill the 2nd hole yourself...



... I didn't notice when I replaced mine, because I have the King waterstone mounted on it, which is narrower than the Tormek stones.

Not a big deal... but thought it would be worth pointing out... if deciding to replace items becomes a factor.

[GeoTech]

I think any long term storage should require weights to be removed from shafts, and bits smeared in protective coating.. problem is only 1 in a 100 are planned long term storage, most are "can't get out there this month", then it goes on and evolves into long term.

Think new drive wheel is the only solution, though you could soak it in a nice light oil see it it can be restored.

Soaking the rubber drive wheel in any kind of oil would not be advisable.

[Ken S]

The change in the EZYlock shafts is news to me. I retrofitted an EZYlock to my first T7. I also retrofitted one of the new metal drive wheels to my present T7. (In both cases, nothing was broken; I just wanted to stay current. I no longer have the original shaft or drive wheel.)

I have emailed support for clarification on this. I will post the reply.

Ken

[Robert Fisher]

I did end up buying another drive wheel.  Got mine from sharpening supplies (little cheaper than link above) https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Tormek-T7-T8-Drive-Wheel-P431.aspx
I will try some experiments on the old wheel now that I have a replacement on the way.  I didn't think to try heat.  I will report back what I find.

Seems to me something nice would be to have a way to just lift and hold the motor off of the drive wheel (for storage that is).  Its easy to lift the pressure off by hand.  Maybe time for some new invention

I have a picture of the dent.  Its pretty good size dent.  But I cannot figure out how to post it here. (actually, added picture to original post.  Figured it out

[John_B]

I have Shimpo potters wheels that are driven by a tapered metal cone the rides against a rubber drive wheel. Sometimes a student will turn off the power with the drive engaged and I get the same thing happens; an annoying thump each time around. If it is bad I place the wheel in the kiln room where it is very warm and just let it run. Within an hour or so all seems back to normal.

[cbwx34]

I did end up buying another drive wheel.  Got mine from sharpening supplies (little cheaper than link above) https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Tormek-T7-T8-Drive-Wheel-P431.aspx
I will try some experiments on the old wheel now that I have a replacement on the way.  I didn't think to try heat.  I will report back what I find.

Seems to me something nice would be to have a way to just lift and hold the motor off of the drive wheel (for storage that is).  Its easy to lift the pressure off by hand.  Maybe time for some new invention

I have a picture of the dent.  Its pretty good size dent.  But I cannot figure out how to post it here. (actually, added picture to original post.  Figured it out

Did you try letting it run for a while?  Mine sat for a couple of years too... when I turned it on it startled me... but after a while it was OK (may have taken a few days of use, don't really remember).

You can also sand it a bit... (if it's thick enough).

[Ken S]

Here is my answer from support:

"The older model had the drive pin recessed 4 mm in to the drive wheel. When the drive wheel did get really hot it could crack.
We then move the drive pin to the centre (14mm) of the drive wheel to have more material surrounding the drive pin.
Therefore if you use a new shaft with an older  drive wheel the recess is not deep enough to seat the drive wheel against the shoulder of the main shaft.
That is why we drilled two holes on early model MSK -250. 4mm and 14mm from shoulder.
We now have stopped drilling the extra hole. If the customer have an older drive wheel they have to drill the hole them self.
They can buy a new drive wheel if they don´t want to drill the hole. This is what we recommend because of the stronger design and the fact that the older drive wheel is starting to get brittle and can crack."

The new shaft drilling does not quite follow the Tormek policy of non obsolescense, however, I can see the reason for the change. The new drive wheel really is much sturdier. Hopefully the bump in your drive wheel will work itself.

Ken

[Elden]

I do not see any cracks in the drive wheel. If the bump can be worked out it should make a good drive wheel.