Tormek Sharpening Process

[Boski51]

I have a question on the sharpening process that you guys use.  I know some folks do the standard Tormek "book" process of course grind, grade stone, fine sharpen then hone and that's it.  That is the process I have used for the last few months as I have learned the Tormek and its jigs.

I mainly sharpen just chisels and plane blades as I am learning traditional woodworking.  I am trying to establish a more advanced sharpen practice and I am looking for advice.

I have read that some suggest doing the above process but to they use a 4000 or 8000 japanese waterstone (flat stone) to do the honing and or for refining the flattening/polishing the back of the blades/chisels.  I have read that they use the stone to deburr the back after the sharpening has been done and don't use the leather wheel because they round over their work.

What process do you folks use/suggest?  BTW I have the T8 and a 1000/8000 flat stone for my sharpening tools (just got the stone).

[cbwx34]

I have a question on the sharpening process that you guys use.  I know some folks do the standard Tormek "book" process of course grind, grade stone, fine sharpen then hone and that's it.  That is the process I have used for the last few months as I have learned the Tormek and its jigs.

I mainly sharpen just chisels and plane blades as I am learning traditional woodworking.  I am trying to establish a more advanced sharpen practice and I am looking for advice.

I have read that some suggest doing the above process but to they use a 4000 or 8000 japanese waterstone (flat stone) to do the honing and or for refining the flattening/polishing the back of the blades/chisels.  I have read that they use the stone to deburr the back after the sharpening has been done and don't use the leather wheel because they round over their work.

What process do you folks use/suggest?  BTW I have the T8 and a 1000/8000 flat stone for my sharpening tools (just got the stone).

I don't sharpen these items, but the idea of using the flat stone to finish the edge is sound... in fact, I've read some use the Tormek for the initial sharpening, then use the flat stone to debur and also maintain the edge for a while... the idea being that the slight hollow makes the maintenance along the very edge easier.

I'm sure someone will be along with more specific advice.

[Twisted Trees]

I would also recommend a flat stone for finishing plane blades, but very carefully.

I would restrict the leather wheels for my wood turning tools only, but I mostly do that freehand just to deburr and polish after I have finished sharpening with the jigs. There is a degree of difference between the sharpness of a hand tool and a lathe tool, it would take me months of work with a hand tool to cut as many wood fibers as an hour on the lathe, so whilst I want my lathe tools sharp, I also need to compromise on the strength of the actual edge or I would spend too much time sharpening.

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Andy.

Unlike CB, who is a very skilled knife sharpener, I am at heart a chisel and plane sharpener (who also does knives). When I first started using my Tormek (sharpening chisels), I had many years with oilstones, waterstones, and sandpaper on glass.

I would divide your question into two parts, bevels and backs. I would also divide it into initial sharpening, honing and polishing. Into the mix, I would also include hollow and flat grinding.

Let's get "hollow grinding" out of the way. My 1972 vintage six inch dry grinder puts a noticeable hollow grind on a chisel. My mind tells me the ten inch Tormek wheel also leaves a hollow grind, although I must look very carefully to notice it. The two point alignment definitely reduces sharpening labor with bench stones. This is minimized with the Tormek; the motor does the work.

No matter whether you use all Tormek or Tormek plus bench stones, grinding the initial bevel is the hard labor part of the operation.That's why tradional Tormek does not include secondary or micro bevels. With proper use of the jigs, it is easy to just pop back to the Tormek for touch ups.

I have mixed thoughts about whether to use the Tormek leather wheel or an 8000 grit water stone for polishing the bevel. I would suggest you learn and try both methods. With waterstones, be very fastidious about keeping your stone flat, very flat. With the Tormek leather honing wheel, our own Wootz, the most acute sharpener I know, keeps the tool in the jig and the jig carefully set up. I suspect that many sharpeners who prefer to finish with bench stones have not fully mastered the leather honing wheel. My point is, master both and be able to use either. Your choice.

I have never been crazy about using the side of a wheel for flattening a back. I usually start with a brief rub using my 8000 grit waterstone just to get an idea of how flat the back is and, if not flat, whether it bows out or in. If it bows out (has a belly), with a new chisel, I would follow Leonard Lee's sage advice and return it. (Leonard Lee's  Sharpening book should be a primary part of your personal woodworking/sharpening library.)

I did flatten a chisel with a noticeable belly. It is a very nice old Buck chisel which feels very nice in my hands. The belly was obvious with a straight edge. I eyeballed it using the circumference of the Tormek for most of the work and then switched to my waterstones.

In my opinion, the number one problem flattening chisel backs is having too many chisels. For many years, I used a complete set of Marples Blue Chip chisels. When, after years of using them, I gave them to my nephew, I noticed that I had not flattened the backs on several of the larger sizes. My father worked for most of his life with just a sharp 1/2" chisel. My chisel buying advice is to only buy a few widths and buy top quality. The last chisels I bought were a partial set of Lie- Nielsen chisels. They leave the factory requiring minimal back work.

Don't feel constrained to follow orthodox Tormek doctrine. Master the skills and travel your own path.

Keep posting.

Ken

[Boski51]

Thanks for everyone's insights.

Right now I am fairly comfortable using the honing wheel.  I keep the plane blade or chisel in the jig that I used for the sharpening step and keep the angle the same when honing bevel on the leather wheel.  I rest the blade/chisel on the tool rest and remove the blade from the jig when I am ready to hone the burr off of the back.  I have never deburred with a stone so I guess I will try that and see if I get a better result.

I will order the book you mentioned so thank you for the advice and thank you for the welcome.  I have read a ton on the site but this was my first post-so again thank you for the help.

[RichColvin]

Andy,

Twisted Trees is right in saying that there are different processes for different tools.  On my Sharpening Handbook, I've put a icon which is a circled "i" by each set of tools.  That links to diagrams of the process I've found to be the best for that set of tools, and why.  Where there are differences in opinion (e.g., stropping of chisels and plane blades), I've given links to where the sharpener can read or hear more to make their own conclusions.

Kind regards,
Rich

[Dakotapix]

Boski — I just went through the process yesterday on a plane iron from a nice Norris A5 infill plane that I treated myself to as a birthday gift. I wanted to establish a new hollow grind bevel on this thick plane iron. The iron's edge was square but a bit lop-sided. In this case I set the bevel for 30 degrees and proceeded. Once the bevel was set, I regraded the standard stone ( now nine inches) to the finer grit and that was it on the Tormek. No stropping wheel. My standard process at this point is to go to stones of which I have several options, including 1200, 6000 and 13,000 grit water stones.

In this case I went with my oil stones. Started with a Washita, then a white Washita and then with a translucent. Finally finished on leather strop with green compound to refine edge and remove burr. To specificaly answer your question, I use the Tormek to reshape edges on plane irons and chisels. While doing that I try to carefully check the squareness of the edge with a small machinists square as I'm working. As I use the tools I only go back to the stones to to renew the micro bevel edge I've created on the stones. If the edges is damaged severely (it can happen) I'll go back to the Tormek.

My method is probably contrary to that of the devoted Tormek user but it's what I've been doing for close to 20 yearsof Tormek ownership. Key to my method is creating the hollow grind on the Tormek and then doing a micro or secondary bevel on the stones. You should be fine with your water stones.

[Boski51]

Dak and Rich-Thank you very much!  Rich, your handbook is very helpful and it very concise.

[Thymen]

Also a newbie, I have been wrestling with the same.

see https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3877.0

[Ken S]

As a longtime user of both oil and waterstones, I have no problem with the Dakotapix method. I do think the intelligent way to decide on a longer term technique is by first mastering all the options.

I also think we should factor in the kind of work involved. I would want to put in more sharpening time for chisels for work like fine dovetails than for more utility work. I would put more sharpening effort into a smoothing plane than in a jack plane. I think it is beneficial to have a broad enough set of skills to be flexible.

Ken