Supergind 2000 motor burnt out

[akira13]

Hi There,

Not sure if this has been asked before so apologies if it has, My faithful heavy green super grind 2000 motor seems to have burnt itself out after many years of good chisel sharpening. Tonight when i was sharping any pressure i applied caused the wheel to stop and the motor was super hot to touch.

Is it possible to get a replacement for motor for this model or due to the cost would i be better of getting a new model. If a new model is the way to go what model would suit the wet wheel i currently have on the 2000 as it is still in good condition i would like to reuse it.

Thanks

Sean

[RichColvin]

Sean,

Check with Sharpening Supplies or Advanced Machinery.  Both have very excellent service and speedy shipment.  They should have the part.

Kind regards,
Rich

[jeffs55]

If you can buy a motor cheaper than a whole unit, be sure and let the forum know. Since you are using the 2000 model, you will have to go with the T8 to utilize the same wheel. You can always look on eBarf for a used older model but when you buy used, be careful. The T7 uses the same size wheel and the Supergrind for that matter but these are out of production. I was referring to the current model.

[akira13]

Thanks for the advice - will look into this

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Sean.

A replacement new Tormek motor costs $312.95 in the US, just for the motor. Here is a link:

https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/products/11-motor

Frankly, you are getting in the price range for a good used T7 or a new T4. A new T4 will have a seven year warranty, a stainless steel shaft, and the microadjust support bar, as well as a new grinding wheel. It will not come with a TT-50 truing ((available as an essential "optional" extra, add a hundred dollars to the cost). I like the T4. It would serve you well.

A good used T7 will have a stainless steel shaft. Look for one with EZYlock unless the price is really low. It should have the microadjust support bar and the TT-50. Many of the T7s had a ten year warranty, which should transfer. Check on this with support. (support@tormek.se)

I would also check with a good local motor repair shop. I have no idea if your motor can be repaired or what it might cost. You should know.

Occasionally we receive posts inquiring about needing a replacement frame or someone with a shaft rusted frozen to the shaft. If your present shaft and wheel are in good condition, these have value.

Must dash. Keep us posted, and do not hesitate to ask questions.

Ken

[jeffs55]

Welcome to the forum, Sean.

A replacement new Tormek motor costs $312.95 in the US, just for the motor. Here is a link:

https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/products/11-motor

[cbwx34]

...
Tonight when i was sharping any pressure i applied caused the wheel to stop and the motor was super hot to touch.
...

You've probably already checked, but make sure the nut holding the grinding wheel simply didn't loosen... this will also cause the wheel to stop when pressure is applied.

(My motor on my Supergrind has always been "hot to touch"... maybe it was just something you didn't notice?)

Slim chance, but thought I'd mention... just in case.

[Ken S]

Sean,

Please check your forum messages.

Ken 

[Elden]

   I doubt that this would be the correct answer either, but check to make sure the motor shaft is not slipping on the drive wheel. Sandpaper used on the rubber drive wheel takes care of that problem.

[Ken S]

Sean,

Elden makes a very good point, which the rest of us have overlooked. If your motor runs, when not under load, I think it is all right. If it is just slipping under load, all you need to do is clean up the rubber drive wheel with some sandpaper. This is described in the handbook. If you register your Tormek on the tormek website, you can access and download the handbook.

Note to the forum members, including me: In our desire to help, we may not always take enough time diagnosing the problem. Sean's motor may or may not work, however, we need to do due diligence before condemning it.

Ken

[cbwx34]

   I doubt that this would be the correct answer either, but check to make sure the motor shaft is not slipping on the drive wheel. Sandpaper used on the rubber drive wheel takes care of that problem.

Good point also.  (One way to tell... if both sides stop, it could be slipping, if only the grinding wheel, it could be loose).

...
If your motor runs, when not under load, I think it is all right.
...

I thought that too... thinking wouldn't a burned out motor pretty much just quit?

[Ken S]

Sean,

Would you please remove your leather honing wheel. Then remove the nut which secures your rubber drive wheel and carefully remove the rubber drive wheel. At this point, your motor is isolated from the shaft. Turn on the motor. If it seems to run fine, your motor is working.

Before reattaching your rubber drive wheel, use some sandpaper to remove any built up glazing. Hopefully, your Tormek will run properly now.

If not, try pushing the wheel during start up. If your motor needs this help starting, your starting capacitor is bad. This is a much easier and less expensive fix than a bad motor.

If you get everything working, this would also be a good time to clean and regrease your nylon bushings.

Keep us posted.

Ken

[Fernando]

Something similar happened to me, and it may not be your case, but using my Tormek T-8 it stopped working, after a while of work, it is possible that your engine did not hurt, it just turn off for safety because was it overheating, and did you try turning it on again a couple of hours later when it was already cold?

[Ken S]

I contacted support for advice about diagnosing motor problems. Here is the advice from support:

A motor does not run if it has burned winding. It just stops and hums or is totally quiet. It depends in which wire that is burned.
It is the same if a capacitor is gone, but the different is that you can push start
a motor with a bad capacitor and then it runs pretty normal.
9 times out of 10 it is the motor shaft slipping on the drive wheel.  Second place goes to capacitor.
It is very rare to  burn a motor, the bearings usually go before the windings inside the motor.

I would suggest printing out this advice from support and taping it in our handbooks.

Any word, Sean?

Ken

ps Starting the motor by pushing the grinding wheel reminds me of my old VW beetle with abad coil. I remember pushing it many times. Thank goodness for manual transmission!

[PhoneAgnostic]

I contacted support for advice about diagnosing motor problems. Here is the advice from support:

A motor does not run if it has burned winding. It just stops and hums or is totally quiet. It depends in which wire that is burned.
It is the same if a capacitor is gone, but the different is that you can push start
a motor with a bad capacitor and then it runs pretty normal.
9 times out of 10 it is the motor shaft slipping on the drive wheel.  Second place goes to capacitor.
It is very rare to  burn a motor, the bearings usually go before the windings inside the motor.

I would suggest printing out this advice from support and taping it in our handbooks.

Any word, Sean?

Ken

ps Starting the motor by pushing the grinding wheel reminds me of my old VW beetle with abad coil. I remember pushing it many times. Thank goodness for manual transmission!

Good info!!