2000 squaring help needed

[andyb]

I recently became the proud owner of a 2000. After cleaning up, tuning up and truing up the unit I tried practicing on an old chisel.  The issue I had was one that research showed others have had also in that the beveled edge wasn't square when I was done. The Google search yielded a few suggestions like pushing harder on one side vs the other but the most relevant info I could find was from a 2011 post on Sawmill Creek that said:

The fix is easy and you do not need to make a special jig or return your Tormek.

According to Sharp Tools USA "...If it is out of square, you will have a "long point" and a "short point". Release the clamping pressure on the short point side's clamp by 1/8 turn and tighten the clamping pressure on the long point side's clamp by an equal amount. Grind for a few more moments and check again. Re-adjust as necessary..."

I use a red or black marker so I can see the grind better. Let me know if you still have problems.

Is this the suggested method for fixing this or is there a better way?


My other question is that since the unit was preowned the stone is naturally smaller than it's original diameter.  Am I correct that measuring across the diameter and getting 195mm vs 250mm diameter that I should set my gauge to 195 when establishing the desired bevel angle?  This model doesn't seem to have the reference marks for diameter like I saw on one video.

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Andy.

Your Tormek 2000 should give you many years of fine sharpening service. There are many Tormeks of that vintage still in regular service performing very well.

Chisels that are not quite square are a common situation. Keep a black marker and a small square ever present with your Tormek. These two are your "early warning system" with your Tormek. The black marker not only tells you if you have your bevel angle set correctly, it can also tell you if you are grinding square early in the process. (less backtracking needed)

As a learning aid, check your chisel with your square before you start to grind. If it is out of square, set the support bar close to the grinding wheel and lightly grind with the edge at ninety degrees to the wheel until the edge is square. I did the same thing earlier this week when I reshaped a turning skew chisel. It may seem like extra work, however, it gives you an accurate starting point. Grind a small flat area, somewhere around 1/16" or 1.5mm. As you grind on the bevel, check this flat surface often. You should be grinding it away evenly.

All of this will soon become second nature. We have all paid this "tool tuition". Remember the words of Alan Lacer, you can't hurt your chisel; all you can do is make it shorter. 

For the record, I have never used the side markings of wheel diameter. That is not meant as a criticism, just a statement of how I happen to do things. I just set a metric rule on top of the flat wheel. Note the measurement and transfer it to your Anglemaster. No need to worry; it is not rocket science or toolmaker work. By the time you approach 180mm diameter, you should look for a replacement grinding wheel. (Grinding wheels are like brake shoes, long term consumables)

I suggest you go on the Tormek website and register your Tormek. You have no warranty remaining, however, once registered, you can access and download the latest edition of the handbook. The handbook was written by Torgny Jansson, inventor of the Tormek, many years ago and is essentially unchanged. New jigs and accessories are mentioned, however, the "meat and potatoes" of using the Tormek have not changed. The handbook is a fine reference. You can also access several well done videos by Alan Holtham. (The older Tormeks did not have serial numbers.)

Do not become discouraged. You will soon be an old Tormek hand.

Keep posting! You are among friends.

Ken

[andyb]

Excellent Ken.  Thanks.  I will register. I hate to be a pest but you addressed something that I am going to have to address. I got into this because everybody is telling me that I want to use a really sharp skew for pen turning vs the carbide I've been using as it yields a better finish. It seems that it does but I also I fashioned a curved Alan Lacer skew that I would like to try and sharpen.  Not sure if that is possible on the Tormek but if it is I'd like to figure out how to do it.  I have plenty of dull chisels too but for $50 on Craigslist the 2000 seemed like a worth while investment.



"Tool tuition".  Yes, I need to start paying that.

[Ken S]

Andy,

Do not worry about being a pest. We would not be here if we did not want to share (both receiving and transmitting) information. Please keep in mind that I am basically a beginner with turning and sharpening turning tools. "Cracking the code" to sharpen Lacer skews has been a puzzle which has bothered me for quite a long time. I am pleased to share the process with you.

Before you get into things like Lacer skews, I suggest you spend some time with your bench chisels and getting to know your Tormek.

Here is a link to the best Lacer video I have found. I also purchased his skew DVD, which is also good.

https://youtu.be/BP89N-gKcmU

Alan Lacer sharpens with an eight inch dry grinder. Like many you tubes using other sharpening methods, I usually learn things which can be applied to the Tormek. He mentions pen turning using his big skew.  I have found this video exceptionally informative; I have watched it several times. (highly recommended for you, too)

Fifty dollars for an older Tormek. What a deal! You are off to a good start. We'll help get you up to speed with sharpening your tools.

Ken

[andyb]

Thanks again for the reply and the link.  I've got some practicing to do.  I need to get my serial # from inside the 2000 to register it so I can get access to the things available.  I plan on starting with my old beat up tools before I work on my good chisels and plane irons.  Don't know if it's possible to sharpen that curved skew on the Tormek but I'm looking forward to eventually getting a square razor sharp mirror finish on my other stuff.

Here is a vid I found helpful. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmCxDToHm6Y&index=66&list=PLScpPEstRJuxSs_ebynTAcx4LpSOfdSXt&t=0s which you have probably seen.

[RichColvin]

Andy,

I've done quite a bit of pen turning, and I've found that the skew does indeed work well when :

• the grain of the wood is parallel to the bed, and
• the grain of the wood is pretty straight.

In other words, burls don't work well with skews.

By the way, I've also found that well-sharpened spindle gouges work well, and are easier to use in some cases.

As for sharpening the skew, I use a high speed grinder to shape the tool (as shown in the video you noted), and then sharpen it in two steps on the Tormek :  use the grindstone (the black one is recommended for high speed and other tougher steels), and then hone it.  As you work, you'll need to re-hone the tool.  For pen turning, I'd certainly re-hone between pens.

For honing, I've used three approaches :

• use the leather wheel (not my first choice)
• use a Japanese stone (the SJ wheel -- my preference)
• use a paper wheel.

As a final note, I always sharpen my skews in the horizontal position with the wheel grinding away from the tool.  Takes longer, but when sharpening this isn't a problem.

Good luck,
Rich

[Ken S]

Andy,

Rich and I live near each other. I have been in his workshop. His turning equipment is formidable, as is his turning knowledge. From my admittedly small turning experience base, I have two minor questions about his advice.

First, your fifty dollar Craig's list purchase can very easily become well over five hundred if you start thinking new SB and SJ wheels. For several decades, turners have worked with the Original SG grinding wheel, at a slower pace, but with good success.

Second, I believe the recommendations of using the SB wheel for HSS will change very soon when the new diamond wheels arrive. I have had the opportunity of working with them. They are game changers. The 90RPM Tormek is still no speed match for a high speed dry grinder, however, reshaping can be done with the new coarse diamond wheel. I reshaped my one inch skew to Lacer grind with the Tormek and DC-250 coarse diamond wheel.

My standard advice is to postpone thoughts of other grinding wheels until the standard SG grinding wheel and leather honing wheel are mastered. At that point, you can decide based on your own knowledge.

Ken

ps Out of cudiosity, what size is your skew?

pps Serial numbers for Tormeks were not used until later. Your search will get frustrating....

[andyb]

ps Out of cudiosity, what size is your skew?

pps Serial numbers for Tormeks were not used until later. Your search will get frustrating....

I have 3 skews to work with. 1. 1/2" Harbor Freight in it's original shape, 1. 1" HF that I have given the Lacer shape and grind and 3. A Benjamin's Best 3/4".  Haven't tried the 1/2" HF but have spent the last few days with the other 2.

The honing wheel on the Tormek is just rubber with no leather on it. (which may be why it was only $50.  A new wheel is $80.  First I'll try epoxying a DIY leather strap before I spend more on it than it cost me for the whole thing.  I have a high and a slow speed grinder which is what I used to fashion the Lacer skew.

I have a credit card type 600 grit diamond stone that I use for honing.

You are correct.  No # on the Tormek even though the web site says there should be on the 2000.

[Ken S]

Andy,

is there a steel drive rod outside of your rubber wheel? If so, that is the rubber drive wheel which is inside of the leather honing wheel. If not, your rubber wheel might be an EA-240 deburring wheel. These were many around the time your machine was made. It provided a more abradive option to the leather wheel.

Ken

[andyb]

Andy,

is there a steel drive rod outside of your rubber wheel? If so, that is the rubber drive wheel which is inside of the leather honing wheel. If not, your rubber wheel might be an EA-240 deburring wheel. These were many around the time your machine was made. It provided a more abradive option to the leather wheel.
Ken

Not sure what you mean by a steel drive rod.  Don't laugh but here is a pic of my unsuccessful attempt at gluing a leather strap to it.  The arrow points to the rubber layer.  Doesn't look like the 240 wheels I see online.  Rubber not very hard and is easy to peel with a finger nail.

[cbwx34]

Ken can probably tell better than me... but I think you had a leather wheel to begin with.  The leather gets pretty hard and black after some use... but the side (where the arrow is pointing) looks like the leather wheel to me.

[andyb]

This one seems soft and black.  But it did feel like it was impregnated with oil.  Could be it's not rubber and just old mushy leather. I saw the EA-240 online and it does not look like what I have.

[cbwx34]

This one seems soft and black.  But it did feel like it was impregnated with oil.  Could be it's not rubber and just mushy leather.

Yeah... I'm pretty sure that's a leather wheel.  (Probably soft 'cause the owner kept it oiled... maybe too much).

The EA-240 Ken referenced is a thick piece of rubber... pretty obvious difference...



Hopefully, you didn't mess it up with glue....  maybe you can sand it to a fresh surface... then just add some honing compound to it.

[andyb]

Nope.  Just contact cement that stuck to the belt and not the wheel.

[cbwx34]

If it were me... I would lightly sand it... just get some fine grit sandpaper and hold it against a rotating wheel for a minute or so... then I would hold a cloth towel to it (be warned this will ruin the towel)... this should get a lot of "black" off it which will clean up the wheel.

Then I would add some compound... if the wheel is saturated with oil I would use a dry compound (I like Flexcut Gold).  If the sanding and towel cleans it up pretty well... then just use the Tormek compound... (if you don't have a dry compound, the Tormek compound should work... just don't use a lot right off).