Sharpening Engravers?

[EChristopher]

Has anyone ever tried sharpening hand engraver tools with the Tormek system? I've searched a fair bit online for techniques and it seems to be doable on the Tormek, however I have not seen anyone use one to sharpen their engraving tools. Most setups I see are with flat surfaces; is this why I haven't seen it done with the Tormek? The hollow grind would technically be there, however it's such a tiny surface to grind. I can't imagine it causing any problems. Mounting the tool might be an issue, but I'm sure it'd be an easy DIY jig to design.

[RickKrung]

I'm not familiar with the tools used.  Probably someone else here is. 

A photo or two would help so we can see the scale and shape to get an idea of what might be involved and how the engraving tip could be held. 

Rick

[EChristopher]

Here (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_LojTisBF6KcovdYOViW8rlrsONOxy7l) are a few pictures so you can see how tiny these are. There's a good instructional video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGg_EwRToLU) that shows how the front face gets cut to a specific angle and the back two edges (the heel) are done to whatever angle is preferred for the user. It allows for smooth, guided cuts into metal.

[Fernando]

Here (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_LojTisBF6KcovdYOViW8rlrsONOxy7l) are a few pictures so you can see how tiny these are. There's a good instructional video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGg_EwRToLU) that shows how the front face gets cut to a specific angle and the back two edges (the heel) are done to whatever angle is preferred for the user. It allows for smooth, guided cuts into metal.

those engraved burins, they are made of very hard steels with cobalt alloy or tungsten carbide, I initially sharpened them by hand at an angle controlled with diamond stone and then finished with the translucent hard arkansas "novaculite stone".
those tools are very hard, I think that tormek would be ideal for that precision work but definitely with stone BGxxx carborundum or a diamond wheel
the stone SGxxx would not be an optimal option.

[EChristopher]

After getting the urge to just do it, I figured out a way to mount the engraver. Here (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_LojTisBF6KcovdYOViW8rlrsONOxy7l) I've added a picture of my method. I use an SVS-38 and made sure the screw bites down hard. This part is fairly tricky. I then set up the angle guide against the back edge. I first grind the large face at 45°, which goes very quickly as you can imagine. Then, I rotate the piece to address the heel. I had to lower the support bar almost to the wheel as well as push the piece to the edge of the jig in order to make it a low enough angle. These sides went even faster; only about a second on the wheel. And that was it; I tested it immediately after and it worked great.

[RickKrung]

What about the Multi-Jig, SVS-50, in the "perpendicular" position?  There is about 16mm of length from the clamp to the front edge, but if your tool is long enough or can be mounted in a "pin vise" or the handle that you use it in?  You'd have to devise a way to keep it from rotating. 
https://www.tormek.com/usa/en/grinding-jigs/svs-50-multi-jig/

Also, if you could figure a way to lock it so the shaft would not rotate, the Gouge Jig, SVD-186?  There is about 6.4mm of length from the clamp to the front edge.  If it were me, I'd drill and tap the barrel for a set screw to keep the shaft from rotating, but I'm sure other ways could be devised (ie, clamp a stick to the rear of the barrel using a hose clamp and make the stick so it captures the locking knob of the stop ring). 
https://www.tormek.com/usa/en/grinding-jigs/svd-186-gouge-jig-svd-185/

Rick

[Fernando]

After getting the urge to just do it, I figured out a way to mount the engraver. Here (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_LojTisBF6KcovdYOViW8rlrsONOxy7l) I've added a picture of my method. I use an SVS-38 and made sure the screw bites down hard. This part is fairly tricky. I then set up the angle guide against the back edge. I first grind the large face at 45°, which goes very quickly as you can imagine. Then, I rotate the piece to address the heel. I had to lower the support bar almost to the wheel as well as push the piece to the edge of the jig in order to make it a low enough angle. These sides went even faster; only about a second on the wheel. And that was it; I tested it immediately after and it worked great.

for that process, do not think it is better to use the accessory SE-76 or SE-77, which you use has the possibility of leaning to one side, affecting the shape of the bevel.

[Ken S]

UPDATEThe SVD-186 has been redesigned (now the SVD-186R) to include a rotation locking screw on the shaft. See the linked description video:

https://youtu.be/BaQoKA7jq_0

Ken

[RichColvin]

Christopher,

What you are describing is the same problem with sharpening metal lathe tools.  What I have found is that using a form of a Goniostat made to use the SVD-110 platform jig (https://sharpeninghandbook.info/indexJigs.html#Goniostat) worked well for me to set the cutting angle.

The next issue is identifying the way to hold the tool (as noted so that it does not rotate).  For rose engine cutters, I use a square rod as shown a ways down on this page:  https://sharpeninghandbook.info/WW-RoseEngineFlyCutter-Rod.html.

If this is something you will be doing often, then I recommend dedicating a USB and SVD-110 to this purpose.  That way, it can be setup at the desired angle and all you have to do is plop it into the Tormek and go.  I have done that for my wood lathe skews, and it is saving me loads of time, and produces a consistent surface each time.  I've attached a picture of mine, and you can see that the adjustment knob was removed, and a set screw was installed to set the exact angle I wanted, and keep it at that place.

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