Leather wheel doesn't work effectively.

[Sharpco]

I applied the correct amount of oil at first, then used the PA-70 without additional oil. But the leather wheel that worked well at first is not good at all these days.

For comparison, I applied PA-70 on a leather strop and it gave me a slightly better result than a leather wheel.

What's wrong with my leather wheel?

[jeffs55]

I am going to take a wild guess and say you need more honing compound. With use it either goes away or is further ground so fine as to become useless or not there at all. It may require more oil if it shows no inclination to stay on the wheel. Put a little oil and some compound on something waterproof and swirl together and apply it that way minimally around the leather wheel. A little oil is an amount not exceeding the volume of honing compound. I would call it a paste and not a cream.

[cbwx34]

I am going to take a wild guess and say you need more honing compound. With use it either goes away or is further ground so fine as to become useless or not there at all. It may require more oil if it shows no inclination to stay on the wheel. Put a little oil and some compound on something waterproof and swirl together and apply it that way minimally around the leather wheel. A little oil is an amount not exceeding the volume of honing compound. I would call it a paste and not a cream.

Good "guess" and I 2nd it.  The honing compound, from my understanding is designed to "break down"... so it must be refreshed occasionally.  Easiest indicator is what is in the first post... when it no longer works well.

Mixing the compound with a bit of oil is a good idea.  I apply the compound to the wheel with an old toothbrush... a little "premixing" might make it work even better.  Thanks!

[Stickan]

Hi,
I use a thin layer of compound on every tool I sharpen.
There is probably not something wrong, you just need to use more compound.
As I have written earlier, I have the machine running when I apply honing-compound, pressing the opening of the tube gently against the honigwheel and then apply compound carefully. Learning to do this is maybe the easiest way to apply compound and it works every time.
As cbwx34 writes, it brakes down under use. But mixing it with oil is not necessary, there is vax in the compound so using extra oil will not speed up things, on the contrary.

Best,
Stig

[cbwx34]

Another thought I had on this... if you sharpen a lot... consider using a compound that doesn't break down as readily.  I like "Flexcut Gold"... works well for me.  Others like a diamond (or I guess now a CBN) based compound.  A couple of things to keep in mind...

• I wouldn't get too fine a compound (I would stay above 1m minimum).... the Tormek wheel turns slow, plus you want it aggressive enough to clean up after the stone (if that's your desire).  (There are exceptions... for example, if you just want to debur an edge).
• It's not always easy to switch... if you want to try different compounds, you may have to clean the wheel.. especially if going from a coarser to finer grit.  So, it may not be as easy as... didn't like this... I'll try this compound.  May have to clean the wheel off first.

Just another idea to consider.   

[Ken S]

Following an idea from Ernie Conover many years ago, I have a second leather honing wheel which I use with valve grinding compound. VGC cuts more quickly than PA-70, but does not leave as smooth a finish. Separate leather honing wheels eliminate any comingling. Overkill? Who knows?

Ken

[cbwx34]

Following an idea from Ernie Conover many years ago, I have a second leather honing wheel which I use with valve grinding compound. VGC cuts more quickly than PA-70, but does not leave as smooth a finish. Separate leather honing wheels eliminate any comingling. Overkill? Who knows?

Ken

It's a good idea... since different compounds yield different results.

(If we weren't into a bit of "overkill"... none of us would be here).

[Sharpco]

Hi,
I use a thin layer of compound on every tool I sharpen.
There is probably not something wrong, you just need to use more compound.
As I have written earlier, I have the machine running when I apply honing-compound, pressing the opening of the tube gently against the honigwheel and then apply compound carefully. Learning to do this is maybe the easiest way to apply compound and it works every time.
As cbwx34 writes, it brakes down under use. But mixing it with oil is not necessary, there is vax in the compound so using extra oil will not speed up things, on the contrary.

Best,
Stig

10 days ago, I started honing as your method.(per 3~5 knives) It was fast, easy, effective. But now I feel a little bit less effective.

[Sharpco]

Another thought I had on this... if you sharpen a lot... consider using a compound that doesn't break down as readily.  I like "Flexcut Gold"... works well for me.  Others like a diamond (or I guess now a CBN) based compound.  A couple of things to keep in mind...

• I wouldn't get too fine a compound (I would stay above 1m minimum).... the Tormek wheel turns slow, plus you want it aggressive enough to clean up after the stone (if that's your desire).  (There are exceptions... for example, if you just want to debur an edge).
• It's not always easy to switch... if you want to try different compounds, you may have to clean the wheel.. especially if going from a coarser to finer grit.  So, it may not be as easy as... didn't like this... I'll try this compound.  May have to clean the wheel off first.

Just another idea to consider.   

Do you apply Flexcut gold at Tormek leather wheel? Is that finer grit than PA-70?

[cbwx34]

Do you apply Flexcut gold at Tormek leather wheel? Is that finer grit than PA-70?

Yes, I apply it to the wheel.  I believe it is coarser than the Tormek compound, as it'll leave a bit of "bite" to the edge.  Some claim they can polish with it... I've never tried, so can't say.  I use it just enough to insure the edge is clean... often no more than 1-2 pass per side at a slightly higher angle.  (But remember, I try and debur prior to the leather wheel, with very light alternating passes on the main wheel, and a pass or two on a ceramic rod).

What I said earlier also applies...the wheel I use FG on (on the T-4), I don't use Tormek compound anymore.