How do you finish scissors sharpening?

[Sharpco]

I finish the scissors sharpening with 220 grit. Because the handbook on page 65 contains the following text.

"As a matter of fact, a coarser surface on the scissors makes them work better, as well as cut the slides less and cut more easily."

But I'm confused because there is a Honing wheel in 'Twice as Sharp' which is used by scissors sharpening experts.

I hope to hear your opinion.

Do you think that the coarser finish is better than fine finish?

[cbwx34]

I finish the scissors sharpening with 220 grit. Because the handbook on page 65 contains the following text.

"As a matter of fact, a coarser surface on the scissors makes them work better, as well as cut the slides less and cut more easily."

But I'm confused because there is a Honing wheel in 'Twice as Sharp' which is used by scissors sharpening experts.

I hope to hear your opinion.

Do you think that the coarser finish is better than fine finish?

The quote you referenced is in the section which is titled "No honing".... and says not to use the honing wheel.  I don't think it's suggesting sharpening scissors with the stone graded 220g.  Most sharpening on the Tormek is done with the stone graded fine... 1000g (per the manual).  I also looked up the TAS "honing wheel"... it's 600g.

Also, make sure you're comparing "apples to apples"... for example there is a "polish wheel" on the high end TAS... but I don't think it's being used to polish the actual edge.

[Sharpco]

Thank you. cbwx34

Because of the word "coarser", I couldn't think of 1000 grit.

If I finish scissors sharpening with 220 grit, will the edge of the scissors dull quickly?

[cbwx34]

Thank you. cbwx34

Because of the word "coarser", I couldn't think of 1000 grit.

If I finish scissors sharpening with 220 grit, will the edge of the scissors dull quickly?

I wouldn't do scissors at 220g.  Most scissors require very little work to make them sharp, and also, the more metal you remove, the greater chance they won't work at all... especially on scissors that you can't make adjustments on.  The 1000g finish will "catch and hold" material... which is what scissors require.

[stevebot]

Another opinion: Scissors require a bit more metal removal than knives, so I recommend grading to 220 to sharpen them. No further honing is needed. Remove the burr by closing the scissors without letting the edges touch, then hold them together as you open them. Burr will roll right up out of the contact or ride area and will actually become part of the cutting edge.

My wife commented one morning at market that it was taking me 10 min to sharpen scissors, compared to 2 min for knives. That inspired me to purchase a TAS scissor sharpener. The primary grinding wheel on all model TAS (except for salon shears) is 120 grit and I leave 90% of scissors with that. Only high end dressmaker shears get the honing wheel used, and then only on the finger blade. The thumb blade lft rough helps keep the fabric from pushing.

A final note - as you sharpen you are also creating a secondary burr on the back of the bevel. If you can feel it it can drag on fabric and should be smoothed with a fine hone.  See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKdFyozNgMA

[cbwx34]

Another opinion: Scissors require a bit more metal removal than knives, so I recommend grading to 220 to sharpen them. No further honing is needed. Remove the burr by closing the scissors without letting the edges touch, then hold them together as you open them. Burr will roll right up out of the contact or ride area and will actually become part of the cutting edge.

My wife commented one morning at market that it was taking me 10 min to sharpen scissors, compared to 2 min for knives. That inspired me to purchase a TAS scissor sharpener. The primary grinding wheel on all model TAS (except for salon shears) is 120 grit and I leave 90% of scissors with that. Only high end dressmaker shears get the honing wheel used, and then only on the finger blade. The thumb blade lft rough helps keep the fabric from pushing.

A final note - as you sharpen you are also creating a secondary burr on the back of the bevel. If you can feel it it can drag on fabric and should be smoothed with a fine hone.  See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKdFyozNgMA

I'll never dispute your methods... but do you see a lot of damaged edges... or why did it take so long, and require the coarse stone?

My method (common household scissors) was mark with a Sharpie, match the angle, grind till the Sharpie was gone (fine stone), debur as you described, and done.  Most scissors took longer to clamp than to sharpen.  Haven't done a lot, so maybe I just go lucky.

[stevebot]

I recall a lot of scissors with wide bevels, worn back into the blade, and having to remove enough metal to create a new edge, ie no reflection on the radius caused by wear.
And honestly I have not sharpened a pr of scissors on a Tormek for over a decade. TAS and Viel are much faster and easier.

[Jan]

Steve is correct, it is not an easy and quick task to sharpen scissors in the Tormek jig. On the other hand, I am usually quite satisfied with the results achieved. 

The jig is well designed and its base is for me a very useful platform for many non-standard sharpening operations.
E.g. https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3226.msg18879#msg18879

Jan

[Sharpco]

I recall a lot of scissors with wide bevels, worn back into the blade, and having to remove enough metal to create a new edge, ie no reflection on the radius caused by wear.
And honestly I have not sharpened a pr of scissors on a Tormek for over a decade. TAS and Viel are much faster and easier.

I don't sharpen the scissors with Tormek too. Because of the low speed.

[Ken S]

Sharpco,

You bring up several interesting issues. I will tell you the reason I use my Tormek instead of  a Twice as Sharp for sharpening scissors. I have never sctually used a TAS, however, everything I know about it inficates that it it is a good unit. I have considered purchasing one. I have no doubt that I would like it. My reason for not purchasing one is cost. I am a hobby sharpener. I also sharpen on a volunteer basis for my grandchildren's school. The Tormek does a very adequate job for this. It may not do the job as quickly as a TAS, however, with my very low work volume, I am not pressed for time. Even if I was in business as a sharpener, I would have to consider very carefully if the number of scissors I needed to sharpen regularly would justify spending $400US compared with $50 for the scissors jig for the Tormek you already own.

The TAS is small enough that fitting it in your van would probably not be a problem. The dust might or might not be a problem for you. For occasional scissors, I would have a hard time in convincing myself that the $400 was cost effective. I leave it up to you to determine the volume level where it wiuld be cost effective for you.

As this is the Tormek forum, I do not want to get into a discussion about the Viel. I will say only that I thought the Viel would a useful adjunct for the Tormek for me. It has been that. The basic Viel costs around $100. I planned to use one of my three spare shop motors. That fid not work, so I purchased a motor. That brought my cost above $240. I decided to switch to a variable speed motor. The Viel has been a useful complement to my Tormek, a $400 complement. As a hobbiest, I like the tool. If I was running a cost effective business, I would have to think long and hard about such an investment.

Ken

[Sharpco]

Sharpco,

You bring up several interesting issues. I will tell you the reason I use my Tormek instead of  a Twice as Sharp for sharpening scissors. I have never sctually used a TAS, however, everything I know about it inficates that it it is a good unit. I have considered purchasing one. I have no doubt that I would like it. My reason for not purchasing one is cost. I am a hobby sharpener. I also sharpen on a volunteer basis for my grandchildren's school. The Tormek does a very adequate job for this. It may not do the job as quickly as a TAS, however, with my very low work volume, I am not pressed for time. Even if I was in business as a sharpener, I would have to consider very carefully if the number of scissors I needed to sharpen regularly would justify spending $400US compared with $50 for the scissors jig for the Tormek you already own.

The TAS is small enough that fitting it in your van would probably not be a problem. The dust might or might not be a problem for you. For occasional scissors, I would have a hard time in convincing myself that the $400 was cost effective. I leave it up to you to determine the volume level where it wiuld be cost effective for you.

As this is the Tormek forum, I do not want to get into a discussion about the Viel. I will say only that I thought the Viel would a useful adjunct for the Tormek for me. It has been that. The basic Viel costs around $100. I planned to use one of my three spare shop motors. That fid not work, so I purchased a motor. That brought my cost above $240. I decided to switch to a variable speed motor. The Viel has been a useful complement to my Tormek, a $400 complement. As a hobbiest, I like the tool. If I was running a cost effective business, I would have to think long and hard about such an investment.

Ken

Thank you. Ken.

I often have to sharpen dozens of scissors at once. However, scissors have less service costs than knives, so it is important to reduce the work time. So despite the advantages of Tormek that dust does not occur, I had to think of another machine.

[Ken S]

Sharpco,

I did not realize that you often sharpen dozens of scissors at once. In that case, you need s tool designed specifically for scissors. The Tormek is a great general purpose tool.

Ken

[Fernando]

I totally agree with Ken about "The Tormek is a great general purpose tool."

In my case, I sharpen scissors gardening, tailor and stylist, and I can say that with the tormek and the standard stone I can sharpen the gardening and tailor getting excellent results, but the stylist still can not sharpen with my tormek , the edge that leaves the 1000 grain is not enough, besides that the amount of material that eliminates is greater, unless you get the sj-250, for now the stylist are the only ones that I finish with a mechanical machine of controlled angle, for the stylists I must reach a minimum of 4000 grain and even settle the edge with chrome oxide, I do not know anything about the work of a stylist in their day to day, but many tell me that it is enough to adjust a little more the scissors so that they get tired of the hand in a single day, we do not notice it because we have each scissor for a very short time, and it does not allow us to appreciate the consequences of one type of edge or another, but they know it, and that is what makes them choose to sharpen the scissors with you or someone else, in my case now that I have been sharpening scissors for a long time, I should not eliminate much material, maximum 1/3 of a millimeter and the edge should last a minimum of 4 months working daily.
hope in the future that this hoby gives me to buy the sj-250 

[Serhij]

I heard that one of the methods sharpening scissors and to whet them with foil
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqjFIwU_LUQ

[Ken S]

Fernando,

I do think the Tormek is a great general purpose sharpening tool. I also think that salon shears are a very specialized tool, and not in the "general purpose" catagory. As an expensive and vital part of a beautician's income, I think it is only fair to let those with specialized training and equipment work on them. I would certainly not discouraged you from getting the training and equipment to sharpen these.

Serhij,

Interesting idea. It might be a lifesaver when away from the shop.

Ken,