very old Tormek

[PekkaK]

Hi there
I have an old Tormek, bought second hand. grinding wheel is 250 mm diameter and the body is of steel. I´m wondering about the honing wheel;
i  it's covered by material which seem to be old worn rubber, not in any case leather
ii it´s mounted to the drive wheel using six screws, in new machines there seem to be only three of them.

I want to have a leather covered honing wheel but should I also change the drive wheel?
Then I´m interested what type my machine will be? I have not seen any ID code on it.

PekkaK

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Pekkak.

Tormek made a different honing wheel using a rubberlike substance with abrasive. Measure the diameter of your honing wheel. If it is 240mm, this is probably what you have. It was listed as the
EA-240, When it was introduced, Tormek also introduced a Quick Release nut as an option, which later became standard equipment. Before that, the honing wheel was secured with a standard hex nut. The EA-240 was listed as a deburring wheel. A standard replacement leather honing wheel should fit your unit.

I suggest you contact Tormek support (support@tormek.se) for more information.

Ken

[RichColvin]

PekkaK,

If you replace the drive wheel, I recommend you also replace the drive shaft.  Ken mentioned it with his comment about the quick release nut.  That is a great improvement, and the new shaft is stainless steel.  I would beg that the shaft you have is probably rusted, so replacing it would be good also. 

Rich

[PekkaK]

Thanks for answers. The axis really is "black" steel and rather heavily rusted. Wien I changed new grinding wheel it was difficult to loosen the old. If I got it right, there will be also new bearins With the new axis. Plus changing the grinding wheel will be much easier thien.
PekkaK

[Elden]

   If your grinding wheel and drive shaft are bonded together by rust, much caution and time are required to remove the grinding wheel without breaking it. This warning comes from one who did not spend enough time in the removal attempt.

   Ken has stated: "The topic of nut removal resurfaces occasionally. The keyword to success is patience (combined with time and penetrating oil)."

   To me the larger problem is the removal of the grinding wheel from the shaft instead of the nut when they are rust bonded.

Edit: Great! It sounds like you already have it off.

[Herman Trivilino]

If I got it right, there will be also new bearins With the new axis. Plus changing the grinding wheel will be much easier thien.

Welcome to the forum Pekka. Yes, you've got it right. If you buy the MSK-250 https://www.tormek.com/usa/en/spare-parts/shafts/msk-250-stainless-steel-shaft/ you will get the EzyLock feature which makes it easier to change grindstones. Although the web site description doesn't seem to mention it, when I bought mine it came with new bearings.

You may also want the Micro Adjust feature of newer US-105 https://www.tormek.com/usa/en/spare-parts/other-spare-parts-and-upgrades/us-105-universal-support/. Or you could modify yours by threading the shaft. That's what I did and it's a big improvement as it makes it much easier to fine tune the grinding angle.