supergrind 2000 issues

[RREvans]

Hi all - I have an old supergrind 2000 with some issues and i wondering if i should fix or just purchase new:

1.  The stone has cracked into 5 pieces (an initial crack and rough handling destroyed it!)

2.  The nut holding the stone is "rusted" on and prior to destruction of the stone, the machine would run for a bit and then "stall". I suspect the corrosion has gotten into the shaft and bearing areas.

I gather that the new parts will fit on this machine, but i am not a heavy user and wonder if purchasing a new T4 is a smarter move.

Thanks in advance

[jeffs55]

You need a new stone of course. As for the shaft being rusted, now that the stone is shattered you should be able to remove it from the shaft and remove the shaft from the stand. You can then see if there is rust causing your stall problem. If not, a new stone is cheaper than a new machine. Also, remember my saying when it comes to buying a "cheaper" model. "You can use less of more but you cannot make more from less". You can always look on eBarf at older/ used models and see if the price is right. Just remember you would be buying a machine with no warranty and potential problems. If you are not experienced with on line buying you might better skip that. Good luck.

[Ken S]

A new SG-250 grinding wheel should cost $184. An EZYlock kit, which includes new bushings should cost around $66. Don't pay more for ""free" shipping. $250 total.

A new T4 costs $399. That includes the seven year warranty. I suspect your stalling problem can be resolved with five minutes and some sandpaper.

The T4 is a smaller machine, not a lesser machine. I use both sizes.

The choice is yours. Neither choice is a bad move. Whichever way you go, you will need a TT-50, so allow an extra $89 if you don't already have one.

My two cents would lean toward the T4 and selling your present Super Grind as is.

Ken

[RichColvin]

And, if you add in the US-105 universal support with micro adjust, that's another $48.

$184 - SG-250
    66 - EZlock shaft
    89 - TT-50
    48 - US-105
-------
$387

[RREvans]

Thanks for the feedback! I do have the TT-50 accessory. Does the version i have not fit on the T4?

[Ken S]

There is only one TT-50. It fits all Tormek models. I consider it a necessity. I forgot about the threaded microadjust universal support. It, also, is a necessity with the TT-50. Some of the forum have threaded their own. The rest of us mortals just buy one.

Incidentally, all the jigs and accessories are interchangeable between the T4 and larger Tormeks. The only exception is the universal support. The 105 for the larger Tormeks is 10mm longer to compensate for the extra 10mm thickness of the SG-250 grinding wheel.

I have never recommended a T4 over a new T7 or T8 based on a cost saving. In that case, I would base my decision on how fixed or portable the Tormek will be. I would pursue your choices carefully. With Tormek, there is no bad choice, just some which might suit your needs better.

Keep asking questions until you feel you have the answers you need.

Ken

[jeffs55]

Seems to me that if you buy a new stone, you are good to go on a bare bones budget. You have the necessary truing tool. As for the EZ lock shaft, that is wonderful but not necessary. Just take some Teflon tape and that will keep the nut from seizing again. The micro adjust nut is cool but not necessary. I have never used it even though I have it. It is only good for one edge at a time. Just use the black marker method of determining the edge you want ground and you do not need anything else. HOWEVER, the micro adjust nut in conjunction WITH the US 105 is WAY better than what you have. "Ken S" is the "go to" guy on here. Maybe that is why he is the  moderator.

[SharpenADullWitt]

My understanding was there was a point where people were buying the Supergrind 2000, and the new owners were being shipped the new microadjustable shaft.
Then there are those on this board who threaded their original shaft.  We don't know what tools he uses this for, and turners, probably benefit less from the adjustment, then the setting tool.
I would order the new shaft and wheel.  Check the bushings, although mine seemed fine, I replaced them anyway.  Grease the bushings and see if with the new stone on it running, if it stalls.  If it still does, then try using a bit of sandpaper on the drive wheel.

If you were to sell your 2000, you would want to keep your TT50 and your tools (whatever doesn't come with the T-4), and would have the less duty cycle of the T-4.  Personally I believe that without those, our used price, wouldn't bring what you would like.

[Ken S]

You should do some detective work with your Super Grind.

A replacement stone, either new or lightly used is a given.

The thread on the older shafts is the standard m12 (12mm diameter metric thread). If you can't remove it, use a nut splitter. These are not expensive, or, a mechanic can do it in a minute. A replacement nut, maybe a hardware store replacement, should be inexpensive. I like the teflon pipe tape idea. This may get you going again for a while, or probably for "the duration", especially if combined with regular maintenance. Frankly, if you choose the rebuild route, I would replace the shaft and be done with it. The new shaft kit includes a new set of nylon bushings.

Sanding the drive wheel will normally restore the stalling problem. This is described in the handbook. Be sure to register your Super Grind online. No warrenty remains, however registration lets you download the latest edition of the handbook. The drive wheel operation is a fairly common, but minor and easily correctable issue.

Thousands of universal supports without microadjusts are in daily use. Microadjust is a convenience, but you can work a little more carefully without it and not miss it.You can set small changes for the TT-50 with the stop collar or the SE 76 or 77 and a couple thicknesses of cardboard. This is not orthodox Tormek technique, but works fine.

On the T4 side: Ignore the 50% duty nonsense. This was an overheating issue with the all plastic housing of the T3. The redesigned zinc top of the T4 corrected the problem. The zinc top works like a radiator and disperses the heat. You, the ooerator, will need a rest long before the T4 does.

Which way to go? For a beginner without an experienced user nearby, I would go with the new T4. Life is simpler that way, just like with cars. For a more experienced and/or more mechanical person, I would replace the grinding wheel and get a replacement shaft kit. Assuming that your motor is good, your rehabbed Super Grind has years of good service left. With a new grinding wheel and a stainless EZYlock shaft, a Super Grind should essentially work like a new Tormek.

I have three Tormeks, all of which happened to be new. I upgraded the shaft in my first T7. In hindsight, I would have been just as happy rebuilding an older model. This does require some patience and effort.

T4 or not T4? I stand by my original recommendation. Go by the use, not the cost. In a permanent setting with plenty of room, go with the larger models. If you move it much, the smaller model is nice.

Keep us posted either way.

Enjot the adventure.

Ken

[RREvans]

Hi - I did some more investigating of the issue: I was able to remove the shaft by removing the buffing wheel and hardware and tapping it out lightly with a hammer. The nut is really frozen to the shaft! The nearest bushing looks pretty involved with the corrosion. I suspect this is the root cause of the stalling, but i will inspect the drive side.

Based on all this and the feedback, i've ordered a replacement wheel and EZYLock shaft/bushings. I am confident that this will fix everything.

I've managed my sharpening needs with out the micro adjuster so far, but i will look into it!

Thanks!

[Ken S]

Bravo! You will soon be up and running. Do keep us posted.

Ken

[jmartin80]

Hello,
I just bought a  Supergrind 2000 on eBay. The universal support is not threaded, but I want to cut threads in it so I can use a micro adjust nut. Does anyone know what thread size I should use?
Thank you,
Jon

[Elden]

Jon,
   Welcome to the forum. The diameter of the US bar legs is 12mm. Either a 12mm or 1/2 x 20 will work. I used the 1/2 x 20 on mine. I believe Herman used the  12mm on his. Because the close spacing of the two legs on the US bar, I used a hex shaped (external shape) die.

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Jon. The thread on the universal support for the microadjust is a square cut 12mm. I will check on the pitch later this morning and include it with this post.

The microadjust nut is designed to match this square thread. A standard hex nut will work with a V thread. A hex nut has no numbers, however, each face is the same as one number on the microadjust.

The 1/2" thread should an outside diameter .026" greater than 12mm. I have not cut this thread, however, it seems like a very loose thread.

If you have access to a thread die and skill with it, and, a lean budget, "rolling your own" might be the way to go. If not, a new replacement threaded universal support with microadjust costs around $45 US.

Keep us posted.

Ken

[RREvans]

Hey - Just to close out my post, new stone and shaft arrived over the weekend and I am back up and running! I now store the stone off the machine when not in use. Thanks everyone for the help!