leather honing wheel

[Ken S]

Stig made an interesting comment about Nick Agar honing his turning tools in between sharpening. (universal support topic in woodturning) For some time I have had a mental image of the sharpness of a tool over time on a graph. The vertical axis would be sharpness. For the more scientifically inclined, we could use BESS measurements. Or, we could just use a mental concept of keenness.

The horizontal axis represents time/use. As the edge degrades, the line moves to the right and down. When the tool is sharpened, the line moves up vertically and begins to descend again.

With this graph, we can include the time spent sharpening and/or honing/polishing. We can also calculate an average sharpness.

Using a chisel as an example, the traditional sharpening cycle when using a Tormek begins with the SG graded coarse. We move through the stone graded fine and to the leather honing wheel with honing compound. When the tool dulls, we begin the entire process. We have the point of maximum sharpness and the point of minimum sharpness. Most of the time the edge will be only somewhat sharp.

If we modify this routine to returning to the leather honing wheel frequently, followed by going to the fine graded wheel when necessary, our average sharpness will be much better. In practical terms, our chisel will cut better through the process. We can extend the time between honing by using a second chisel. While most woodworkers probably have one 1 1/2" (40mm) chisel, most of us probably have at least one spare in the more commonly used sizes.

When we are happily chopping dovetails and first start to notice the edge beginning to cut a bit slower, instead of using heavier mallet blows, switch chisels. When the second chisel slows a bit, head for the leather honing wheel.

Some of us prefer to use fine grit bench stones instead of the honing wheel. This is certainly an option with some basis. However, this should not be done to mask not having taken the time to master the honing wheel. A choice to finish with bench stones should be based on the merits of the options, not on a lack of skill.

How does one acquire that skill? Return to the 3/4" learning chisel from the first topic and practice. After mastering the leather honing wheel, rethink your decision from a basis of skill. (This reminds me of photographers who "prefer" available light over flash or studio lighting. A valid decision for those who are proficient in either.)

Ernie Conover showed me a useful compromise. He keeps a very fine ceramic (dry) bench stone nearby.  The bevel can be honed with the leather honing wheel. The flat back can be honed with a few strokes using the flat, very fine bench stone.

[Hatchcanyon]

Ernie Conover ......

Ken,

not to say the topic is not interesting, but this name triggers something in me. May I ask where he is from?

In Utah there is the Eva Conover Road, one of the finest roads through mother nature!

Some pictures:












Sorry for beeing totally off topic!

They have some oil seeps too....



Rolf

[Ken S]

Rolf,

Beautiful photos! They remind me of a photo workshop almost thirty years ago based in Page, Arizona,ppwith field trips in Utah, including the slot canyons. Working with my wooden 4x5 field camera and a back pack. Life was sweet!

Ernie Conover lives in Parkman, Ohio, where he runs his Conover Workshops. I have been a student at perhaps a dozen classes with him and his staff over more than twenty years. Ernie has also written several books and done several DVDs specializing in turning and handtool woodworking. He and his father, Ernest Conover, Sr., designed and manufactured the legendary Conover lathes.

Ken

[RichColvin]

I just watched the Nick Agar video again.  It's an interesting approach that I'd not considered for turning tools.  I'll be testing that approach tomorrow...

Kind regards,
Rich