Query from a Brit on another forum in the UK

[WolfY]

Wow this is history.
http://www.tormek.com/images/div/40-years-of-innovation-en_800.jpg
Didn't realise it was that old and built that way with drill machine as origin to drive it.
I would rather save it as artifact then use it, even if it would work.

[Ken S]

I could not find a model ST250 in my earliest handbook. However, it did have a parts list for a model SuperGrind 1002, which looks quite similar. It shows a drive shaft for drill. The drawing shows only part of the part. Do you have this part?

This is definitely a situation for support. Stig'g crew can tell you if your drive wheel just needs some light dressing with sandpaper or replaced. It may even be the same part as later models. If you do not have the drive shaft for drill, and if Tormek can provide one, I will be quite impressed. If they no longer carry that ancient part, they should be able to email you detailed specifications to have a machine shop make one for you. Unless I am mistaken, it should be a very simple part, easily made up, even by a home shop machinist. It looks like a rod with one end sized to fit into a drill chuck and the other end sized to contact the drive wheel.

I would also ask support for specific recommendations for an electric drill. It must fit the bracket and the speed must work well with the final drive wheel speed.

The model numbering may have varied somewhat by country or area.

Keep us posted; this is interesting.

Ken

[SharpenADullWitt]

I did a Google image search online and it makes me wonder if this really is an early one, or one closer to 84.  There are some I saw that didn't have the Tormek Support bar we all know, and the drill holder looks in a slightly different place (trick photography, or did it move).  With this one it almost looks like the drill mechanism would place the drill inside the wheel, where one may be able to use a nutdriver bit on the inside lip. (maybe wrap a piece of tape for better grip)

here are some links that might be able to help figure out the drive mech as well as showing some differences:
www.flickr.com/photos/55973621@N06/sets/72157630041685187/
http://www.woodcentral.com/woodworking/forum/archives_handtools.pl/bid/3108/md/read/id/127588/sbj/a-closer-tormek-relative/

Looks like 1/4" drill was recommended at one point.

[LuptoM]

I don't have the original drill shaft. Currently trying a metal rod with some rubber stuck at the end (just waiting for the glue to dry so its doesn't slip off.). With a hammer drill in normal drilling mode its seems to work pretty well and I can now longer stop the wheel using pressure.

I've ordered the SE 77 square jig, so once I have it I'll post a video of it working.

As far as I can tell, the universal support bar must have been invented between 1978 and 1984 and installed on the later st-250 models before they released the SA-250 which is motor powered.

The grinding wheel is cream coloured and doesn't have a sticker on the side so I am assuming its an original wheel. Is there anything special about it?

[Ken S]

Have you heard from support?

Ken

ps I think leap frogging to the new SE-77 was a wise choice.

[SharpenADullWitt]

Don't know about support on the weekend.
In this thread: http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2863.msg15246#msg15246

Hi all,
As Ken S stated, these stones was from a small Island outside Swedens east coast called Gotland. It's many swedes favourite vacation place.
These stones was more sensitive to be left in water and it took longer to sharpen and definitely to remove steel.
The SG stone we made are better in every way, they last longer, don't swell, gives a better/cleaner edge and sharpens faster.
But at that time the Tormek natural stone was the best we had to offer!

Best,
Stig

Makes me think the stone was in between what an SG and a SJ wheel would be.
The Flicker link I posted, makes me wonder if a bolt went from the inside out, through a bushing, and was turned by the drill. (drive mech)
This picture here (if works): www.flickr.com/photos/55973621@N06/7361860682/in/album-72157630041685187/  (posting with https doesn't seem to work so probably have to cut and paste).

The SA models, were self powered and had a rubber coated polishing wheel (closer to what the commercial T2 model uses) while the early ST models, mech, appear to be similar to the T2 on the one side, with a planer blade/chisel jig mounted to the other side.  Here is a thread about them:
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=845.msg1843#msg1843

I hope this helps some.

[LuptoM]

I've asked support and there isn't a copy of the manual dating that far back!

With regard to the drill insert, apparently its just a 6mm diameter steel rod and I've been using something similar so far.

Still waiting for my square edge jig to arrive so will update then

[Jan]

The motor of my Tormek T7 has 1400 rpm and the shaft diameter is 10.8 mm = 27/64".

When you will use a shaft with 6 mm diameter you have to set the revolutions of your drill machine to some 2500 rpm. Then the grindstone will have some 90 rpm. 

Jan

[LuptoM]

I've received the SE-77 jig and it seems pretty well built. I am surprised that it left by edge actually square

Overall I think the tormek is a decent piece of kit for refining primary bevels but wouldn't use it to grind badly misshapened tools. The dry grinder is much faster at this but the tormek is better when you near the edge of the blade as there is no threat of over heating and it gives a much finer grind. My dry grinding wheel tends to make the edge of the blade chip and it takes several sharpening sessions to achieve full sharpness because of this.

I'd quite like to add a leather honing wheel but not sure how I could add one.

I'll post a video over the weekend for those who are interested to see how this old tool works.