hollow ground knives

[jazzl]

can someone let me know where to set the anglemaster on hunting knives that are hollow ground

[Jan]

Welcome to the forum Jazzl! 

The Anglemaster is used when we are re-grinding a knife to a new edge angle. The Anglemaster works for both hollow and flat grind because it measures the angle near to the edge.

When we are only sharpening knife we use the marker method described in the handbook.

Hunting knives have usually the edge angle between 35 and 40°. To set for a new edge angle follow the standard Tormek recommendation:



If the length of the bevel is to short use the alternate setting possibility:



Read the relevant section of the handbook to understand it correctly.
Please practice the procedure on a discarded knife before you touch your valuable hunting knife.

Good luck! 

Jan

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Jazzi.

Perfectly parallel knives are commonly found in Utopia and the handbook. For those of us who must contend with non parallel knives, I have two suggestions:
1) The humble black marker. It really is a very useful setting aid. Marking the bevel and turning the grinding wheel a bit by hand gives an accurate picture of the grinding bevel with essentially no metal being removed. A black marker is an absolute must have item, and must use with the Tormek.

2) Cut up an old used plastic gift card to the approximate width and thickness of the knife being sharpened. This will present a true flat surface for the Anglemaster to work efficiently.

Start with a properly trued, dressed and graded (fine for knives) grinding wheel. Spend the time to accurately set the grinding bevel. Then all that remains is properly grinding.

Keep us posted.

Ken

[Herman Trivilino]

can someone let me know where to set the anglemaster on hunting knives that are hollow ground

What do you mean by hollow ground? The reason I ask is that there will always be a slight hollow on the grind using the Tormek or indeed any round grindstone.

If the blade is tapered you have to compensate for that taper angle when using the Angle Master. Alternatively, you can use the marker method.

[SharpenADullWitt]

This is where more education would be beneficial.  Most forged knives that I am aware of, have a taper.

[Ken S]

No argument from me. I think we must live with the fact that many, if not most, knives are tapered. I would reach for the black marker before the anglemaster.

Ken

[Jan]

If the taper is small, between 2° and 3°, it can be ignored in most cases. When the angle of the blade is larger than the Anglemaster setting should be corrected for it.

Jan

[SharpenADullWitt]

The marker method, only works for those that have an edge.
My thoughts are coming from the knives I had just sharpened from my friends.  Their serrated knives are fine, but the standard chef's knife, when I got them, had no edge to use the marker method. (crushing tool, no longer slicing tool)  I would tend to guess that Stevebott, probably had some similar people, who would only sharpen, if they did at all, with one of those basic pull through sharpeners. (or think that a steel, is really a sharpener and not a hone)  There are two types of knife users, those that realize it needs maintenance, and those that abuse them and think they are pieces of junk, or don't have time to maintain them and find them cheaper then their time, to replace.
This is where I have thought of letting my friends borrow my machine for a week.  I think a couple of minutes at most, honing during the week, might maintain them, and the ability to sharpen quickly, when the are wore out/down will change their thoughts. (explained to them, it takes me longer to set up the tool, since I sharpen different things, then to use it)
Loaning tools, for me is a dangerous thing.  I am aware it is for everybody, but I have enough, not computer literate friends (we consider them elderly at their ages), that have asked me how much x costs, and would rather give me the cash and have me get a new one, then give mine back.  (last time was a neighbor with the same saw, and an aftermarket blade guard with dust collection)
Not a way I want to get a T-8, or T-7.

[Ken S]

SADW,

To sharpen a chef's knife with no remaining bevel, first set up your own well sharpened chef's knife in your Tormek knife jig. When you can remove the black marker correctly, lift the knife in jig off your Tormek. Measure the distance your knife edge protrudes from the edge of the knife jig. (Write this down for future reference.)

Using a combination square, note the distance from the top of the universal support to the grinding wheel. (Write this down, also.) Do not disturb the universal support setting.

Remove your knife from the jig and set the bevel-less knife in the jig, using the same protrusion setting.

When you sharpen the bevel-less knife, it should have the same bevel as your knife.

If you substitute the protrusion of the edge of the knife from the adjustable stop (where it rides on the universal support), you can return to this setting from any sharpening with no measuring and obtain identical bevels. Using this method, set up time should be minimal.

Considering the overpriced market for used Tormeks, your loan-purchase idea might be profitable.

Ken

[WolfY]

If the taper is small, between 2° and , it can be ignored in most cases. When the angle of the blade is larger than the Anglemaster setting should be corrected for it.

Jan

Why ignore as it is so easy to compensate for it. Just remember if you measure 20 dgrs on the WM-200 it means that the "real" angle is 18.5 if taper is 1.5° (not included). I would ignore to measure every time as you would know it is 2-3 dgrs for the taper for most chefs knifes.

[WolfY]

can someone let me know where to set the anglemaster on hunting knives that are hollow ground

I understand you a referring to the 2nd grind that is hollow with knife that has 3 bevels. Counting the strait non grinded as first.
Marker method most right here. But you can always measure the hollow bevel to get an idea and of course deduct some degree to compensate for it.

[WolfY]

I wonder if the WM-200 would have a wider flat part it would be good for this situations.

[Ken S]

When I first started with the Tormek, I actually redesigned the Anglemaster with a wider flat part. I was convinced it would be an improvement, and it was a simple redesign, only one part.

Then I happened to set up my Tormek outside in very bright open shade light. I was amazed with how much better the Anglemaster worked with very good light.

I still believe the Anglemaster works most efficiently with larger flat bevelssuch as chisels and plane blades.

Ken

[Herman Trivilino]

I still believe the Anglemaster works most efficiently with larger flat bevels such as chisels and plane blades.

Or platforms!

[Herman Trivilino]

Why ignore as it is so easy to compensate for it. Just remember if you measure 20 dgrs on the WM-200 it means that the "real" angle is 18.5 if taper is 1.5° (not included).

Two reasons. A difference in angles of only 1.5° is about equal to the limit of precision you can get with the Angle Master. And a difference that small won't have any effect on the performance of the knife.