D2 planer blade... Grinding hollow grind bevels on a knife blade

[Ken S]

The ideal Tormek model?

For me, the ideal Tormek would be the like new old square frame Supergrind at an estate sale for fifty dollars.

Since my ideal probably doesn't exist, the choice is probably between a T 7 and a T8. (Used prices are often too expensive to be good values.)

One of the commendable principles of Tormek is compatability of the latest advances and jigs with older Tormeks. In my opinion, thr most outstanding feature of the new T8 is the new SE-77 square edge jig. This jig will work with any Tormek. The new zinc housing and water trough are certainly very nice, however, I do not see them as must upgrade immediatly features.

I admit to being a Tormek junkie. I am also a thrifty person. I would probably opt for the T8 and tighten the budget in other areas. That's just me. If there were no T8, I would be quite content with my stalwart T7, and even more content with the new SE-77 jig.

For someone working with knives, I don't know how much the improvements of the T8 would translate into benefits. The hundred dollar saving could be a considerable factor, depending on one's budget. There is no wrong choice, only individual choices which may be morebeneficial.

Ken

ps If anyone thinks my judgement may be colored by the Tormek equipment I receive for long term testing, which is the standard compensation for reviews, long before this, I purchased my first T7 at full price, as well as almost all the jigs. I later purchased a second T7 when my first was stolen. I do have experience purchasing Tormek.

[SharpenADullWitt]

The ideal Tormek model?

For me, the ideal Tormek would be the like new old square frame Supergrind at an estate sale for fifty dollars.

Since my ideal probably doesn't exist, the choice is probably between a T 7 and a T8. (Used prices are often too expensive to be good values.)

One of the commendable principles of Tormek is compatability of the latest advances and jigs with older Tormeks. In my opinion, thr most outstanding feature of the new T8 is the new SE-77 square edge jig. This jig will work with any Tormek. The new zinc housing and water trough are certainly very nice, however, I do not see them as must upgrade immediatly features.

I admit to being a Tormek junkie. I am also a thrifty person. I would probably opt for the T8 and tighten the budget in other areas. That's just me. If there were no T8, I would be quite content with my stalwart T7, and even more content with the new SE-77 jig.

For someone working with knives, I don't know how much the improvements of the T8 would translate into benefits. The hundred dollar saving could be a considerable factor, depending on one's budget. There is no wrong choice, only individual choices which may be morebeneficial.

Ken

Ken, going to differ with you a bit, from experience.
Sub $200 on an older Tormek, with a bunch of jigs and a decent stone, is/was a good buy for me.  I did upgrade to the quick release, stainless shaft.  A bargain would really depend on what it came with (stuff you will use, or not).
For someone working just with knives, like a chef, and the factors of the SJ stone is also available on the T4 as well as smaller and lighter (probably stored on a shelf or under a table), IMHO, I think that might be a better buy for them. (as compared to someone like SteveBot who does all kinds of sharpening at markets and such)  Again, situations vary, so would my advice.
The S2000, years back, used to have a rust issue at the base.  I looked at the T7 bodies (and from memory they were powdercoated), when I looked at several used Tormeks online.  The cost of a new body, drove the used Tormek price, way over retail.  (most of those I looked at, were the old square frame models)  The new zinc base, should eliminate that, completely. (I got lucky on mine, what I expected to be rust, was would particles and glue, from a benchtop, why I didn't have to refinish mine)
The water tray, and new lift mechanism, is an improvement for some of the older woodworkers I have known.  One gave up power tools at 95, after cutting off his fingers on the table saw, but still appreciated hand tools, and wasn't in a hurry. (since passed on)
I would think in typical fashion, the frame may be upgradeable on our older models (where it has been before, but the jigs haven't always been), but wouldn't be cost effective.

[Ken S]

Well stated, SADW.

You cover the intelligent older Tormek market with more experience and depth than I have. My thoughts were centered on the new market.

I agree completely with you about the new water trough being better suited for older users. That is an example my belief that individual circumstances should influence one's choices.

Ken

[RustyGunn]

I wasn't aware the T8 was available already. I haven't seen or read anything on the T8 that tells me to return the T7 I just got.
Besides, it cost me 90 dollars to send it up here. It would cost about the same going back, and then another 90 to send the T8 up. 270 dollars, dude.

There is nothing wrong with this one, it arrived in good shape. I got it put together, ready to go.
It looks like I'll enjoy using it for a long time. Still waiting ob the bench grinder, and belt grinder.

Edit.. I googled the T8. Interesting benefits. But never having ever used a Tormek before these benefits mean nothing to me. I have no experience to compare it to.

I'll keep the T7, it will serve my purposes just fine.

[Ken S]

Rustygunn,

I have been a happy camper with the T7 for eight years. Enjoy, it's a great machine. Lots of guys on this forum have been happily using ancient  Supergrinds for many years and will continue doing so when the T9 and T10 are out.

Enjoy your new Tormek!

Ken

[SharpenADullWitt]

Just like in mechanics, don't blame the tool.  The tool is only there to make ones job easier.
Rusty, without smiley's, it is hard to tell if Herman is being serious, or joking.  I also expect he didn't realize what it cost to get to you.  (verses some of the "free shipping" that some people offer, that in reality is in our cost).  If you could walk in and out of a store and get the "new model" for not much different,  I, as well as others, would be tempted.
That said, the new model, isn't out yet.  (next month) and with the possible jig exception (77 instead of 76), it shouldn't be a factor that affects you.  That is practice.  Keep what you got, and get to learning.

[Ken S]

Solid advice, SADW' get to learning.

Ken

[RustyGunn]

Thanks for the encouragement, guys. I'm sure I will enjoy it, and put it to good use, even if it don't help with grinding bevels on knife blades.

[Herman Trivilino]

I'm sure that either the T-7 or the T-8 is a good choice.

It's just that for the small extra amount, the T-8 has a lot of new and useful features that make the extra cost worth it.

Of course, this is a personal decision. This is just my opinion.

[RustyGunn]

Thank you for sharing your views Herman. The T8, being newer, would be a fine choice.

[Ken S]

Rustygunn,

Don't give up on your Tormek grinding knife bevels. Check out my posts on using Norton 3x grinding wheels (used wet) on your Tormek. They are available in eighty and forty six grit. I used them to reshape a high speed steel turning gouge and for tests using metal lathe bits. You should have no thouble grinding knife bevels. Then, switch back to your regular Tormek SG-250 grinding wheel to finish the job. No complaints from me using my T7 for his kind of work. The eight inch diameter wheels work fine on the T7, just like a regular wheel worn down that much.

One Norton 3x eight inch grinding wheel, either grit plus a short piece or schedule eighty plastic pipe and some twelve millimeter bore fender washers will get you going. Total cost arouns $60 US.

Ken

Post again if you can't locate my article describing this.

Ken

[RustyGunn]

Ken... The plastic tube and washers are for the center hole, so the 3x can fit the T7 shaft, rigjt?
I'll do this once I get around to buying a 3x wheel. This proceedure is probably the one I may end up using. Thanks for this recommendation.

BTW... I find myself quite busy with work, such that I haven't even ran the T7 yet. I am also having eye surgury in about ten days. I most likely will get to the T7 after that.
Besides, I'm still waiting on othet stuff before I can even begin.
Thank you to everyone for the advice, encouragement, and such. This has been very helpful to me. I feel confident I can do this now.

[Herman Trivilino]

One Norton 3x eight inch grinding wheel, either grit plus a short piece or schedule eighty plastic pipe and some twelve millimeter bore fender washers will get you going. Total cost arouns $60 US.

A video showing the construction of one of these adapter kits would be very helpful.

Can someone please post a link here to Ken's post describing the construction?

I think this would be a dandy way to reshape a lawn mower blade that's seen better days. Most people, pros included, mow with extremely dull and even damaged blades. Lawns mowed with sharp blades require less fertilizer and water. Hence they are greener in both senses of the word!

Currently I reshape mine on the dry grinder, which makes a lot of dust that later has to be cleaned up.

[Ken S]

Herman, I totally agree; this needs a video. My digital camera is capable of doing video, as is my ipad. The problem is the Neanderthal operator. I must work on this. The kenjig concept needs a video, also.

I am looking for my original 3X document. With two grandchildren, time on the desktop computer is usually scarce.

Ken

[RustyGunn]

We're rootin' for ya, Ken.
Patience is easy.