Supergrind 2000

[That Sharpening Guy]

What stone does the Supergrind 2000 use?

[Elden]

   It uses the same stones as the T-7.

SG-250
SB-250
SJ-250

[That Sharpening Guy]

Thanks!! I currently have the T-7 and I need a new stone and stone grader. I have always wanted a backup in case mine needs to go into the shop. I found this for sale for $275 and figured I could not pass it up. Older gentleman moving into smaller house and just never used it so it has been sitting. The stone fits my T-7 and comes with the grading stone. So I get what I need and and a Tormek almost for free. Win Win!!

[Elden]

   Kenny, that is a sharp looking machine. It doesn't appear to have flaking paint or rust. I have a similar pre serial number machine. I hope the grinding wheel is not rusted to the shaft as mine was. They do not have the stainless steel shaft unless they have been upgraded. I notice that there is no truing tool in the picture. Since you have the T-7, that should be no problem, however.

[That Sharpening Guy]

Before I buy it how can I tell if the wheel is rusted to the shaft? Should I ask him to see if he can remove the stone before I drive and hour to look at it?


Thanks for the heads up!

Kenny

[Ken S]

Nice find!

If all the used market was like that I would think differently. I believe you will soon wonder how you ever got by with only one Tormek!

Enjoy! (and keep us posted!)

Ken

[Ken S]

I would be surprised if the shaft was rusted badly on that clean of a Tormek. My inclination would be to drive there and remove the wheel before transporting it. Be sure and take a two inch piece of plastic pipe or conduit with a half inch inside diameter. Once you remove the grinding wheel and check everything, use the plastic pipe as a spacer so that the shaft doesn't slide during transport. A Tormek should not be transported with the grinding wheel in place.

Ken

[That Sharpening Guy]

I will let you know how it works out Ken.

Why should you not transport a Tormek with the stone on? I have been doing that with my mobile business for quite awhile. I have it setting flat in the back of my van where it will not fall or rock back and forth. Now I am concerned what damage I could  possibly cause.

[Elden]

   I believe the main issue is the weight of the grinding wheel being suspended on the shaft and the added impact forces of bouncing down the road in a vehicle multiplies that weight.

http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2812.msg14867#msg14867

[SharpenADullWitt]

There have been a few posts about removing a stuck stone, it namely will take patience.

That said, if he didn't use it much (looks like at all), then the stone wasn't wet often.  I would doubt much rust is there, but you could ask him for a picture of the stone side, facing the camera (look for rust color on the stone).
That is a little bit more then I gave and I would honestly say my shaft was probably in a bit worse condition, but I would still buy that, and as I eventually want another stone, would put it on this on.

[Herman Trivilino]

Before I buy it how can I tell if the wheel is rusted to the shaft? Should I ask him to see if he can remove the stone before I drive and hour to look at it?

I would do as Ken advises and look at it when you get there. First plug it in and turn it on. Watch for wheel wobble in a pattern that indicates a bent main shaft. Then  explain that you need to remove the grindstone for transport and you'd like to make sure it's removeable and not rusted in lace before you pay. If it is so rusted (not likely given the superb condition apparent in the photo) that you can't remove it, or if there's any rust at all, adjust your paying price appropriately. The grindstone itself is worth a lot.

Another nice thing about having two Tormeks is you can equip each of them with a different type of grindstone. And you can impregnate each honing wheel with a different type of compound. Lots of advantages.

[jeffs55]

You fellows often mention upgrading to the stainless shaft with the quick release nut. Does the shaft come with the nut? I do not see the nut as any kind of need. How often do you change stones? If you only have one stone then whats the big deal. Even if you have another stone, how often would you change it. Wouldn't you "batch process" your items to be sharpened rather than do a knife, then a chisel, then gouge? You know, use the coarse grit on all and then the fine on all and then whatever else you want. I have often wondered about the feasibility of applying plumbers teflon tape to the threads to prevent rusting and seizure. It would be way cheaper.

[SharpenADullWitt]

Even with the stainless shaft, my understanding is the recommendation of greasing it, (plastic bushings), stands.
The currently sold shaft is stainless, and left hand threaded, WITH the nut. No replacement chrome shaft is sold, for those that have a rusted shaft, and to clean and replate it so it won't rust easily, again, isn't cost effective.  (unless you probably own or can get it done for free)

Personally I didn't remove my stone when I bought mine, but I don't know what your roads are like.  My drive was smooth and it was in a box with some padding.

[Herman Trivilino]

You fellows often mention upgrading to the stainless shaft with the quick release nut. Does the shaft come with the nut?

Yes, but if I recall correctly you will still need to save from the old shaft the nut that goes on the other end (the honing wheel end).

I checked this thread and verified that my memory is correct ...

http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=929.msg2133#msg2133

... but then noticed an interesting coincidence.


Purchased in 2002, seven years elapsed to the 2009 grindstone and main shaft replacement.

Now it's 2016. Another seven years! It doesn't seem that long.

If you only have one stone then whats the big deal.

Removal for maintenance? Honestly, I don't see the big deal either. The only reason I have mine is because it came with the main shaft that I needed to buy when my old one bent.

[Ken S]

I suspect Herman May be correct about maintenance, however I am over fastidious. Lately I have been removing the grinding wheel after each sharpening session. This helps the wheel dry out and makes it easier to keep the Tormek dry and clean.

I confess I did not do this before EZYlock. Nor did I do this before I had multiple wheels. Grinding wheels can take several days to dry out. Storing damp wheels in boxes ruins the cardboard.

The hooks on the work station are very nice for hanging the wheels. However, I also made a couple very usable hooks using stainless steel bolts which are secured in the corner holes of metal shelves. I posted a description of them on the forum. If anyone is interested, I will post again.

Ken