Thoughts on this machine

[Petrovich]

I've had this machine for a couple of months now.  I bought it to sharpen knives and scissors.

I have to say it is an outstanding machine for this purpose.  There's a bit of a learning curve.  Knives come in so many shapes and sizes it is experience that does the trick.  Fortunatly, I have a big box full of knives I have accumulated over the years that I bought, grew disappointed with, and eventually put away because I could never sharpen them the way I wanted to.

A lot of people, myself included, think sharpening knives is some kind of big mystery.  Well, it isn't the simplest thing to understand, but it's not brain surgery either.

My revelation came when I realized that my inability to adequately sharpen a knife wasn't necessarily the result of incompetence.  In a nutshell it's inadequate equipment.

I have discovered that even the best knives you can buy are 'diamonds in the rough'.  They are mass produced and even though they are well thought-out tools, they suffer from a lack of the 'human touch'.  They aren't customized...so to speak.

The factory edge on any knife must be customized if it is to reach its full potential.  This is precisely where the tormek comes in.

It's all in the bevel.

Factory bevels are all wrong.  First of all, they are mass produced.  Secondly, they are way to steep.

It's all in the bevel.

On a simple blade, I've noticed all that's needed is to decrease the angle of the bevel.

It's all in the bevel.

On larger, thicker and more complicated blades a bit more thought goes into it.  I will actually regrind two bevels.  A shallow bevel that doesn't take it to a keen edge, then a steeper bevel for the finish.

Did I mention it's all in the bevel?

Second big thing is the stone.  That stone has to have the flattest face possible.  Sharpening knives lends itself to this, however; I pay particular attention to wearing the stone evenly.

Third big thing....the face of the stone has to be smooth as glass.  It cuts much slower this way, but the control is much enhanced and the bevel is smooth and shiny.  My stone face is so smooth it actually puts a polished edge on the knife.

To get this fine of a stone face you have to go a step further than the dressing stone that comes with the machine.  Dress the stone with the fine side as instructed.  However, kick it up a knotch and dress it further with a fine diamond stone.  This results in a stone face that is as smooth as glass.

Finally, I intend to buy another stone for my machine and a quick take-off knob like what's on the leather wheel.  I'll use two different stones on my machine.  The fine one I have now, and a courser one for faster cutting.

Jeff

[Jeff Farris]

.....To get this fine of a stone face you have to go a step further than the dressing stone that comes with the machine.  Dress the stone with the fine side as instructed.  However, kick it up a knotch and dress it further with a fine diamond stone.  This results in a stone face that is as smooth as glass.

Finally, I intend to buy another stone for my machine and a quick take-off knob like what's on the leather wheel.  I'll use two different stones on my machine.  The fine one I have now, and a courser one for faster cutting.

Jeff

Once you have used your stone grader a bit more, and it starts to develop a cup eual to the stone's shape, it will smooth the stone faster and smoother.  You will not need anything else.

As for two stones, for knives, you rarely if ever need the fast cutting action.  I think re-grading the stone to coarse the few times you would need it would be more logical than buying another $130 grindstone.

Glad you're getting along well with your system.

[Petrovich]

.....To get this fine of a stone face you have to go a step further than the dressing stone that comes with the machine.  Dress the stone with the fine side as instructed.  However, kick it up a knotch and dress it further with a fine diamond stone.  This results in a stone face that is as smooth as glass.

Finally, I intend to buy another stone for my machine and a quick take-off knob like what's on the leather wheel.  I'll use two different stones on my machine.  The fine one I have now, and a courser one for faster cutting.

Jeff

Once you have used your stone grader a bit more, and it starts to develop a cup eual to the stone's shape, it will smooth the stone faster and smoother.  You will not need anything else.

As for two stones, for knives, you rarely if ever need the fast cutting action.  I think re-grading the stone to coarse the few times you would need it would be more logical than buying another $130 grindstone.

Glad you're getting along well with your system.

So far I'm still finishing with the diamond hones, but the dressing stone is maturing and breaking in well.  I find that just light pressure with the diamond hones does the trick.

Since that post I agree with you and have come to the conclusion that two stones are unnecessary.  On the rare occasions when I would need a faster cutting stone it is very easy to 'rough it up' and then smooth it out again

I think if I were sharpening odd shaped carving or turning tools I'd have a separate stone, or if I was a knifemaker I'd have a separate stone.

Overall still very pleased with the machine.  It runs quiet and turns without any wiggles or other distracting problems.