Cracked grinding wheel

[garypet]

Actually no, I didn't notice that Ken.  I feel very fortunate  to have found this site and am looking forward to learning from the experiences of others and contributing here I can.
One other question Ken, I know you said you use the silicon stone for sharpening HSS drill bits but did you ever use the standard stone for that task.  From what I've read the SG will sharpen all types of steel, just not as fast.  I guess my point is, if I could get away with the stone I have I just might spring for the DBS-22. 

[Ken S]

Next time I sharpen bits, I'll use the standard wheel.  I can't imagine it not working well.  I'll post.

Ken

[Ken S]

I sharpened a 7/16" hss bit earlier today.  I switched back to the standard grinding wheel.  I really didn't notice any difference between the black wheel and the general wheel.  I might feel differently if I had a lot of bits to sharpen or, more probably, if I was sharpening carbide or other exotic bits.

With the 7/16" hss bit, if I wanted to touch up bits like this and had the regular wheel mounted on the Tormek, I don't think I would change wheels, even with the EZYlock.  So, Gary, I would not let not having the black wheel hold you back.

Ken

[T L Tjader]

I am wondering if Tormek has or is thinking about making a wheel with Cubic Boran, not sure of the spelling, I think this would be great but I am not an engineer so don't know if this would work. Don't think they would crack. Any thoughts/

[Btsutherland@q.com]

Hello experts,
Forgive my lack of etiquette when posting to an outdated topic thread, but you guys know your stuff, and I need assistance.
I have a tormek 2000 with a grinding wheel that's frozen with rust.  The wheel is still in great shape, but how can I remove the wheel from the shaft without ruining the wheel?  Would you suggest a penetrating oil or a similar product?  After I remove the wheel, I'll install the new stainless steel easy-off shaft, and make other improvements as my budget allows.
BTW, I have never left water standing in the reservoir, but the shaft rusted anyway.
I also plan on contacting Tormek about the problem.
Thanks for your help,
Bill Sutherland
Btsutherland@q.com

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Bill. I think you need both penetrating oil and lots of patience. Don't be in a hurry. Considering the cost of a new wheel, I believe your patience would be well rewarded.

It has been a while since I removed my shaft (to upgrade it to AZYLock, which I recommend). As I recall you can remove the drive wheel and pull the grinding wheel and shaft out the grinding wheel side. Someone check me on this. If this is possible, it would make the penetrating oil operation much easier.

Good thought about contacting Tormek (support. tormek.se), too. Please post their response on the forum.

Good luck and keep posting.

Ken

[grepper]

Stig (Stickan), from Tormek, replied a few a pages back in the General Questions list:

http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2272.msg10954#msg10954

In this main topic:
Removing rusty shaft from grindstone
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2272.0

[Ken S]

Good post, Grepper. I had forgotten about the WD40. Bill, go with WD 40. Allow yourself several days, if needed.

I shouldn't post when trying to work the bugs out of setting up a new computer.

Ken

[tylers]

Hi All,
to Btsutherland:

here is a small section of a study done on various penetrating oils. I hope that it is useful.
Ty

*Penetrating oils ...
Average torque load to loosen* No Oil used...................516 pounds

WD-40 ..........................238 pounds

PB Blaster...................214 pounds

Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds

Kano Kroil .....................106 pounds
Hi All,

ATF*-Acetone mix ...........53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.
Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.
Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.

Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also
use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.

[grepper]

Thanks for passing that info on tylers, that is interesting and good to know.

Remember though, as far as the Tormek stuck wheel is concerned, Stig from Tormek expressed some concern about the effect other penetrating oils might have on the hub/wheel material.  I don't know if they actually have run tests, but he stated here:
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2272.msg10954#msg10954

"As I wrote earlier, patience and WD-40/5-556 works but can take some days.
I would try to save the stone as well as it´s many years of use left in it. I have never used Liquid Wrench and can´t say if it works. I´m a bit concerned that it can affect the bushing in some way.
Stig"

At least with the stainless shaft, it should not be so much of an issue anymore.

[Ken S]

At the risk of becoming practical, to those of you with stuck wheels, has all this academic talk actually worked? Have you been able to successfully remove the shafts from your grinding wheels?

Ken

[grepper]

Practical! ?  What on earth are you thinking Ken?

[SharpenADullWitt]

At the risk of becoming practical, to those of you with stuck wheels, has all this academic talk actually worked? Have you been able to successfully remove the shafts from your grinding wheels?

Ken

There was a post, within the last 6 months, where the poster did get it out, but I seem to remember he was going the drill route.
I've stated before, the prior owner got mine separated, but chipped the stone and replaced it with a new one.  (I swapped the shaft after I got it and it had only been used twice before I got it)
But I think the fact that this is posted in the cracked grinding wheel thread, means if you have arrived at the cracked stage, you really have gone too far.

[Ken S]

i believe the real message of all of the rusted shaft stuck to the grinding wheel posts is the need for regular routine cleaning and regreasing of the shaft bushings. Even if it is not so critical for the bushings themselves, it will give an early warning of a rusted shaft.

With stainless steel, although it is highly rust resistant itself, it will rust if it is in the presence of rust. As we are dealing with water and steel, it seems prudent to maintain the bushing clean and lub regemin. With the EZYLock shaft, it is "stone simple" to remove the wheel frequently and for moving and long idle periods. ( See my post on placing reminder directional arrows on the housing.)

Ken