Removing rusty shaft from grindstone

[Stickan]

As I wrote earlier, patience and WD-40/5-556 works but can take some days.
I would try to save the stone as well as it´s many years of use left in it. I have never used Liquid Wrench and can´t say if it works. I´m a bit concerned that it can affect the bushing in some way.
Stig

[Rob]

I would also continue to try saving the stone at 223mm its got plenty of life left and expensive to replace.

[Ken S]

One of the properties of WD-40 ("Water Displacing") is that it is not designed for long term lubrication or rust prevention.  In the case of the rusted shaft and grinding wheel, this is a good property.  I don't know what the long term effects of Liquid Wrench or other products are.  With a stuck bolt, a bit of long term lubrication is probably a good property.  On a grinding wheel, I would think not. Since we have a known useful product in WD-40, I would stick with it.

Ken

[Herman Trivilino]

I will start trying to drill out the shaft without enlarging the hole unless anyone has other suggestions.

I think that's the best strategy. Make sure the grindstone is well supported as it's likely to break near the center where it's been weakened by rust and penetrating oil.

BTW, the stone is now 223 mm diameter. I think it's still worth trying to save it, don't you?

Very much so, yes. Those grindstones are very expensive. Once you get it mounted up in a new stainless steel main shaft and trued it should give you years of service.

[garypet]

Hi Mark, I haven't posted here in a awhile but I do stop in to read once in awhile.  Your post caught my attention as I had the same problem, well sort of the same problem.  I bought my Tormek probably twenty years ago, non-stainless shaft, and never once did I remove the stone from the shaft (big mistake).  Then one day I noticed a crack in the wheel, I tried to take the stone off the shaft but it was no use.  Now, my stone had a fair amount of wear on it and being that it was cracked I saw little sense in trying to save it.  I tried some of the tactics you did to remove the shaft but all my efforts failed and my stone broke into three pieces.  The point of this post is that after seeing how my shaft was "bonded" to the stone I have very serious doubts about you saving your stone.  It was almost as if the shaft and the stone had become one, I never would have imagined that two very different materials could form such a bond.  Other than drilling out the steel as you've already tried I see no other way to save the stone.   Just was wondering how you made out.
Now, on another topic, and the real reason I came to the forum today, was to share  a funny story.
I was cleaning out an old storage cabinet in my work shop today when I noticed the end of an old Tormek box sticking out from under a pile junk.  The end of the box said SVH-320 and thought for sure it was just an old, empty box form one of the many jigs I had purchased with the original unit.  Upon extracting the box I was shocked almost beyond words when I realized that the box wasn't empty.  Inside the old box was a brand new, un-used Planer/Jointer sharpening jig.  Price tag on the said $134.95, I felt like I had just hit lotto.  Perhaps my dementia is worse than I thought it was!  I cannot remember buying it.  Now here's the funny part, last year when my stone broke I almost bought this jig along with a new shaft and wheel but finally decided that for nearly a couple of hundred bucks I might be better off just buying new blades.  I can't even imagine how I would have felt today if I had in fact purchased this jig last year.  Course, I probably could have sold this one for what I originally paid for it so I suppose there would have been some consolation for being such an old fool.

[Rhino]

I second the impact wrench impact hammer idea based on my experience below.

I can use the impact wrench to drive screws that were so soft, the philips head on the screw would have stripped if I tried to screw it in with a regular driver.  However, using an impact wrench, I was able to screw it in and out of wood like a knife through butter and not a mark on the philips head screw.  Things worked so well that after another job using square head screws, I found the screw driver bit actually bent.  But all the screws went in fine. The impact wrench works so well, I have to constantly remind myself not to allow it to go too far and strip the nuts and bolts.  And it is really easy on the hands, I don't really feel I need to counteract the torque generated by the impacts.

So my guess is that some WD40 for a few days, followed by an impact hammering device (palm nailer about $40 at home depot) may be able to loosen it.  Of course, it requires you to also have an air compressor.

Just a thought.  Never actually done it.  But I am impressed by all those impacting tool.