News:

Welcome to the Tormek Community. If you previously registered for the discussion board but had not made any posts, your membership may have been purged. Secure your membership in this community by joining in the conversations.
www.tormek.com

Main Menu

2000

Started by glenkey, May 05, 2013, 11:06:49 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

glenkey

Have the 2000 model, drive wheel has broke in half. This machine set on the same shelf 24/7, does not get moved ever. Use it for woodturning tools. Go out to sharpen up a gouge and there is a thump, thump going on. I don't find it until I take the wheel off and look at it closely. Without removing the rubber I've tried to glue the plastic together, not working so good. Any ideas?

Rob

You'll be needing a part number for a replacement.  If you check out Jeff's website (sharptoolsusa.com) he'll likely have it or can get it for you.
Best.    Rob.

glenkey


Ken S

Bummer, Glen.  Hopefully this is a one time fluke.  I ordered some replacement parts from sharptoolsusa back when Jeff ran the shop.  Service was quite good then, and, presumably, still is.

Keep us posted.

Ken

Herman Trivilino

That's part number 0023, T-7 Drive Wheel.  Costs $ 71.90. 

That's the first time I've heard of one breaking.  Strange that it was in service for so long before it broke like that.
Origin: Big Bang

Elden

Mine has minor cracks in it but still functions well. I think the honing wheel may have overly tightened before I got it. I imagine as the plastic ages, it becomes more brittle.
Elden

Herman Trivilino

Mine's been out in the garage in this Gulf Coast climate for ten years.

Oh no, maybe I just jinxed it an it'll crack tomorrow!!
Origin: Big Bang

glenkey

The latest on the broken drive wheel. I posted on the tormek page that the wheel had broken and got a reply from Mats Wuolo, he is going to send me a new one. I'm with everyone else on the part of hoping that it is a one time fluke. I love my tormek! I tend to have a heavy hand when sharpening on a dry grinder, and the tormek has saved a LOT of steel. One of the bowl gouges I still have, only has an inch of flute left on it. I liked that gouge too.
The part that tipped me off to something being wrong was the thump, thump. As the break would come around to the drive spur on the motor, the two pieces would seperate and cause the motor to jump. When that would happen the grindstone would stop for that second. Being frugal(read that cheap ;D) I still have a nut on the end of the shaft instead of buying the quick connect shaft. I checked the nut to be sure it was tight, have never known it to loosen over time, it was and then I noticed the drive wheel being broke. I can still use the machine, just have to be very light on the stone. Heck I might even learn something like this. :o

Herman Trivilino

You'll want to make sure that the grindstone is not stuck onto the main shaft.  Rust is the big issue with the old main shafts as they are made out of tool steel.  The newer main shafts with the EzyLock feature are made of stainless steel.  Grease the main shaft lightly where it passes through the nylon bearings.
Origin: Big Bang

Ken S

Glen,

While having a broken part is never a blessing, you can learn a lot about your tormek from this.  I found replacing my shaft with the new EZYlock an interesting learning experience.  I was amazed with how many of the Tormek parts seem standard hardware/industrial parts.  I thought that was clever design.  I was also quite impressed with the design and machining of the shaft.  The Tormek people seem to really put the quality where it's needed and balance cost with standard parts where they fit well.

Ken