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Threading a universal support

Started by afx, March 12, 2013, 10:18:28 PM

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Elden

Yes, that is a great idea to have the tap size bit and the clearance bit right there with the tap. No more chart searching, etc.
Elden

afx

I went out and bought a new die last night and it worked MUCH better than the cheap one although it is still hard as HELL to turn . The threads appear to be cutting quite nicely. I only got about half way down before I lost my ability to turn it since I dont have a hex wrench. I was using a long 1" socket to turn it.
It's oddly satisfying cutting threads.

Elden

Kirk,
Are you backing up a little to break the chips? If so, use compressed air to blow them out. If not, you need to. Make sure you are using metal cutting fluid or oil regularly. I use oil because that's what I have around.
Since you are using a socket to turn the die, I take it that you have a die that is hexagonal on the outside.

Your new set should have a die stock that is hexagonal as well. Use it, turn it as far as you can then slip the die stock off the die. Reposition the die stock so that when you put it back on the die, you can again turn it a ways. Repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat-------------------------------. I think you get the picture! :D

That is how I did mine. Is it slow? Yes. :)

Don't forget to keep breaking the chips and blowing them out.
Elden

Herman Trivilino

Quote from: kb0rvo on March 14, 2013, 11:02:27 PM
Use it, turn it as far as you can then slip the die stock off the die. Reposition the die stock so that when you put it back on the die, you can again turn it a ways. Repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat-------------------------------. I think you get the picture! :D

Oh, yeah, because the other leg of the US is in the way.  I'd forgotten about that!


Origin: Big Bang

afx

Yeah I've been backing up about every quarter to half turn as well as using machine oil. Its probably still not the sharpest die :)

Herman Trivilino

You have a lot more patience than me.  I gave up on backing off, it was taking too long!
Origin: Big Bang

afx

Well I just finished cutting the threads and I think it turned out pretty damn good. Instead of getting a regular nut I bought a 12mm 1.5 car lug nut which has a washer type lip in the middle, I just ground a few markings in it to give it some grip and just like that, I'm good to go.


Thanks for the suggestions guys!

Herman Trivilino

Quote from: afx on March 16, 2013, 06:48:56 AM
Instead of getting a regular nut I bought a 12mm 1.5 car lug nut which has a washer type lip in the middle, I just ground a few markings in it to give it some grip and just like that, I'm good to go.

Great idea, I'm going to have to give that a try.  Was that available at the auto parts store?  Do you know the thread pitch?
Origin: Big Bang

Elden

Elden

afx

I bought the nut at Autozone for $1.59

It was a 12mmx1.5 which is what I threaded the rod with, it screws in and out perfectly. I think Im going to grind a flat spot for the screw that secures it then re run the die to make sure the threads are clean.

Herman Trivilino

#25
Quote from: afx on March 16, 2013, 06:07:06 PM
I bought the nut at Autozone for $1.59

It was a 12mmx1.5 which is what I threaded the rod with, it screws in and out perfectly.

I just looked at the die I used and it's stamped 12 mm 1.5 so I guess the lug nut will work on mine, too.  Thanks for that tip.

QuoteI think Im going to grind a flat spot for the screw that secures it then re run the die to make sure the threads are clean.

The Tormek has what they call a "Square cut Acme style thread" which I think means they have the thread flattened all the way around, but as you say, you really only need them flattened on one side.  Well, two sides if you use the universal support in the horizontal position. 

My homemade micro adjuster is too wide to work with the US in the horizontal position.  It's no big deal as I rarely use it that position anyway.
Origin: Big Bang

Elden

That was the reason I didn't have the adjuster nut with the washer welded on it on my USB. A regular nut will clear the frame when the USB is in the horizontal position. I have not flattened the threads yet as the locking screw doesn't seem to be damaging the threads. A person doesn't have to tighten it very tight for it to hold. If the adjuster ever gets to where it is not turning easily, I can do it then. I think they call that the "If it's not broken, don't fix it" attitude. ;D
Elden

Herman Trivilino

I hear ya, Elden, if it ain't broke don't fix it  ...

But, I did file mine flat today and ran the die over it a few times with oil.

The adjuster nut spins much more freely now.

Origin: Big Bang

Ken S

It seems to me the only area you would need to file flat would be where the locking nut meets the threads (do it for both USB configurations.  I would keep the rest of the area full dimension.

Ken

Herman Trivilino

Right, that's what we're doing Ken.  Well, I only flattened one side because I rarely use it in the horizontal configuration.
Origin: Big Bang