DBS-22 thoughts

[Ken S]

I finally had a chance to fire up my DBS-22 (drill bit grinding jig).  As promised, here are my initial thoughts on the jig.

The jig seems very well engineered and well machined.  Impressive.  It also seems very versatile.  I suspect its versatility is largely wasted on average users, although anyone doing a lot of specialized metal drilling would appreciate its flexibility.

Set up is not as difficult as one might think.  Developing a "by the numbers" mind set helps in set up.  Another help is keeping things as simple as possible.  The example which comes to mind is the point angle setting.  The jig will handle angles from ninety to one hundred and fifty degrees.  I would suggest leaving the 118 degree setting fixed until one has really mastered the jig.

The distance between the grinding wheel and the Universal Support Bar is easily set with the included template.  Set it and let it remain a constant instead of a variable.

The protrusion of the drill bit beyond the holder is set with a stop on the jig.  This is another smart constant. 

By leaving the point angle at the standard 118 degrees and leaving USB distance and bit protrusion as designed, the jig is noticeably simpler to use. 

The same template used to set the USB distance is also used to set the clearance angle.  It has four settings from seven to fourteen degrees and a table of recommended angles for different diameter bits.  It is a simple setting.

The only setting which is tricky is the depth of cut screw.  My first sharpened bit is at least respectable, so setting the depth is not really difficult.  it will just take some more experience to become more proficient with setting the depth.

I like the four facet cut.  It should cut down on the bits skating before actually cutting.  As a practical observation, the instructions state the secondary faces are not necessary when reaming (enlarging) a hole.  For those of you who can access the finewoodworking membership site, Ernie Conover has done an excellent you tube on precision drilling of wood with regular bits.  For a precision size hole he suggests using a small pilot hole, then a bit close to final size and then the final size bit.  Not quick, but very accurate.

The instructions do not specifically address the issue, but I cannot see any benefit from using the fine graded stone on the secondary faces.  The cutting is done only by the primary faces.  I can see the possible benefit of regrading the stone with the primary faces.  I would regrade the stone and smooth the primary faces before setting the jig for the secondary faces.  (I would regrade the stone to coarse before grinding the secondary faces.  That would also leave the stone ready to grind the next bit.)

Is the jig worth the money?  I confess I bought mine at a very attractive (possibly mismarked) price compounded by a 20% discount due a tool show.  I was the first customer through the door and immediately bought the DBS-22.  By the way, the "22" is 22 millimeters (7/8"), the maximum bit size the jig will handle.  3mm (1/8") is the minimum.  I think it is worthwhile, but I am a Tormek junky.

I have no experience with any other drill bit jigs except grinding by hand and using a file.  I'm not skilled at either of these.  The Tormek has the advantage of consistency while removing the minimum of metal and not overheating the bits.

I happen to have a black wheel, however, I believe the drill jig should work all right with the standard wheel.

I would welcome comments, especially from those who have used the jig more than I have.  (If you have sharpened three bits or more, that means you.)

Ken

[Mike Fairleigh]

Nice review Ken!  Let me ask this question about it.  Let's say you've used the DBS-22 once or twice and felt like you've gotten most of the intricacies under your belt.  But then you put it on the shelf and don't touch it again for a year, or two.  The next time you decide to use it, how much time do you think it would take to go from "on the shelf" to "ready to grind" again?  What I'm trying to find out is, would it mean starting over from scratch due to the high degree of adjustability etc.?  I'm actually considering returning my new Drill Doctor and going for the DBS-22, but not if it will involve an hour of reading every time I want to use it.  The Drill Doctor is pretty idiot proof once you've used it once.

[Ken S]

Excellent question, Mike.

Actually my plan is to convert most of my present bits to four facet before putting the jig away.  Or, at least enough to become fluent with the jig.  I'm only partway there now.

Let's assume your scenario.  I have spent several hours of study, both reading and watching Alan Holtham's well done you tube.  I would not want to do that every time I got the jig off the shelf.  I believe the process can be greatly shortened by writing some notes to myself.  The first part of my post was really preliminary notes to myself.  Almost all the set up on the jig can be done by rote ("by the numbers").  The USB distance and bit protrusion don't change.  Do them first just like putting on a seat belt.  The 118 degree setting is almost all the time; just leave the jig set that way and tightened.  Before storing the jig, make sure the secondary face stop screw is fully tight.  That will save a lot of problems.  Include checking that, as well as the other "rote" items in your note to yourself.

By doing all this the only real variables are the primary and secondary cut depth screw adjustments.  Write some good notes to yourself about these.  Expect the first bit or two to take a little longer.  Beyond that, the technique should come back to you.

I read an excellent book written by a surgeon about check lists.  (Do a google search on "checklist"; you should find the book info.  It's well worth the time to read.)  Your notes will be your checklist to jog your memory.

As I said, I really have no background to comment either way on the Drill Doctor.  Just a thought:  Since you already have an older Drill Doctor, would you gain more useful flexibility by adding a second, newer DD or combining your present DD with the DBS-22?

I don't have the answer.  however, I am curious to read your thoughts. 

Keep on posting

Ken

ps I think any drill jig works best when kept handy enough to "refresh" the cutting edge when it first starts to think about becoming a little dull.  That's just a quick touch to the primary faces with the stone graded fine.  Very little time and very little steel removed.  Hopefully this is done often enough to keep the jig use in your memory banks.

[Ken S]

an afterthought...

My new shop has lots of fluorescent lights.  It looks very bright until i actually have to see something closely, like the sharpened tip of a drill bit.  Sharpening drill bits really requires much better light. 

I had a similar problem when I first got the Tormek.  i had a terrible time using the angle master to set bevel angles.  my old shop was also the garage.  I moved the Tormek outside.  In the much improved open shade daylight I could see the angle master very well.

I have several old Smith Victor tungsten photo studio lights and stands.  I think they will see regular service in the shop.  They should be available at reasonable prices.  They also work with regular 100 watt tungsten or newer bulbs.

Ken

[Mike Fairleigh]

ps I think any drill jig works best when kept handy enough to "refresh" the cutting edge when it first starts to think about becoming a little dull.  That's just a quick touch to the primary faces with the stone graded fine.  Very little time and very little steel removed.  Hopefully this is done often enough to keep the jig use in your memory banks.

I agree completely, and that's why I kind of like the Drill Doctor.  It might not be the "ultimate" jig (as I would probably call the DBS-22), but I can have it out, touch up a couple of bits, and have it put away in less time than I could probably have the DBS-22 set up.  I wouldn't mind the setup & adjustment involved to do the initial forming and sharpening of all my bits, but I'm not sure I'd want to have to go through it again just to touch up a bit or two now and then.  Again, I've never seen the DBS-22 in person.  If I were to see a demonstration of it in person, it probably wouldn't take much to sway me.

[Ken S]

Good point, Mike.  If the truth be told, I suspect a couple well placed swipes with a file or diamond hone is faster than either.

Then there is the argument that a good jig retains the same edge shape, or can modify one, with removing the least possible amount "of your precious tools" (phrase borrowed from the Tormek turning tool video).  On a logical basis, that is certainly correct.  However, in our real world workshops, how many of us can produce drill bits, or any tools, which we have sharpened almost to the point of extinction?

A notable exception might be auger bits.  I have a number of very well worn auger bits.  most may actually be older than I am, and probably were not carefully sharpened over the years.  As an old telephone installer, I probably used a brace and bit more than most people, but even that work used very few sizes.  (For anyone wanting to sharpen auger bits, a Nicholson file designed for the work is a very useful tool.  They are easy to sharpen.)

As "do it yourselfers", we like to be prepared for whatever comes down the pike.  No one wants to have to run to the hardware store for just a drill bit or odd size chisel. If we look at our drill index of bits up to one half inch by sixty fourths, probably most of the its are pristine.  Two or three may be well worn.  One or two may be missing or broken.  How many of us need to resharpen our 1 3/4 inch chisels?

From a time and cost standpoint, most of us would be further ahead to just have a second bit for the half dozen sizes we frequently use.

That said, the Tormek and its accessories can be a pleasure to use.  Having sharp tools certainly adds to the joy of woodworking and/or cooking.  I also enjoy the mental aspect of extending the possibilities of what this very versatile machine can do.

I think the DBS-22 is one of the most interesting and versatile accessories for the Tormek.

Ken

[Herman Trivilino]

I've had the drill doctor for over a year now and love it.  I don't have the DBS-22 but I have watched the videos and read up on it.  I think it's an issue of longevity and durability.  I notice that with large bits it takes quite a toll on the drill doctor to get them in shape.  Lots of time and lots of wear on the grindstone.

I imagine the DBS-22 would do them faster and would outlast the drill doctor's grindstone and motor.  For a home owner like me who doesn't do any commercial work anymore I think the drill doctor makes more sense.  If I were a contractor though I think I'd wear out the drill doctor pretty fast.  If I were in a machine shop and already had a Tormek, the the DBS-22 would probably be the way to go.  I think it all depends on the amount of work ou do, and the type of work you do.

Either way, it's a pleasure to use sharp tools.

[Mike Fairleigh]

Excellent points all.  And Ken, you're right about the special file for the augers.  I picked up one of those a couple years ago, and should probably get a couple more in case they stop making them.  They don't cost much, but they are unique!

[garypet]

Nice review Ken!  You pretty much answered all of my questions.  Being able to use the standard stone probably takes away the last reason I had for not buying the DBS-22.  Like you, I just plain and simple enjoy using fine tools and find it very relaxing to just sit and sharpen anything!

[Ken S]

I totally agree, Herman. For homeowners like us, being able to resharpen things like drill bits might be considered a necessity.  Sharpening them with the Tormek jig could hardly fall into the "basic needs" category.  Some people enjoy golf, extensive travel, toy cars or trucks, etc.  For me, the Tormek, while functional, is also somewhat my toy car. 

Truth be told, I don't think any of us would wear out either a Tormek or a Drill Doctor.  I did wear a considerable "dent" in my Norton 1000 water stone before getting the Tormek.

Mike, if you pick up more auger bits, make sure they are no more than dull. Once the screw point or wings are worn off, the rest of the bit is kaput.  There is no shortage of used auger bits.  (If you happen to find an old set of bits, the pristine ones are the ones you probably won't use, either.)

Gary,

I use the black stone, but only because I happen to have one.  (it was one of those 20% bag sales at my local dealer.  It actually fit in the bag, but barely.)  I bought it thinking it would be useful for turning tools, planer and jointer blades as well as drill bits. (Who made the comment, "buy the tool and cry once"....great comment!)  I'm sure any of these could be sharpened with the standard wheel.  I think that is part of the guiding design philosophy at Tormek.

Yes, like you, I just enjoy sharpening.

Good comments, guys.

Ken

[Mike Fairleigh]

Yep, I've got a complete set of user augers in the original wooden box.  One of them needs to be replaced, as someone along the line tried to grind off the square shank in order to use it in a round chuck - but otherwise they're in great shape - but not collector shape.  I've got a couple of braces that I've inherited but at some point would like to pick up another.

I'm like you Ken regarding sharpening.  It is somehow enjoyable.  It's a challenge and the results provide immediate feedback.

[garypet]

Ken

Thanks for confirming using the regular stone with the DBS-22.  Actually, I found a couple of video's that show a demo of using the jig today and was pleasantly surprised to see both of the demonstrators were using the regular stone.  One of the videos was about ten minutes long and was actually quite good.  So, after reading your review and then watching those videos I'm convinced  that's the way I'll go.
By the way, I told my wife you said I really needed to have one!

[Ken S]

Gary,

I really believe one of the engineering precepts of the Tormek system is that it work using the standard grinding wheel.  The SB and SJ wheels expand the range, but the heart of the system is the SG.

You should tell your wife that I convinced you that you didn't need the SB immediately to have the DBS-22 work, thus saving almost two hundred dollars.  If your wife is as smart as mine is, she probably won't fall for that, but may be nice enough to play along.

Good luck.

Ken