New user of a used Supergrind 2000

[gat54]

Just received it this week and the condition of the machine needs some work.  On first inspection the nut and washer holding the stone was covered in rust.  I removed them and pulled the whole shaft.  I have the EzyLock Main Shaft Kit coming in the next few days to replace the shaft and I am retrying to clean the residue from the rusted washer off the stone. 

First question - do I need to get all the rust off the stone to insure I do not introduce rust once I re-assemble?  If so, any good suggestion for its removal from the stone material, I do not want to pitch the whole stone if at all possible.

Second question - turning on the motor, it sounds a bit rough; is there any straightforward measures I can take to clean/lube the motor while I have it dissassembled?

I have been using the tormek jigs on my grinder for over a year and I am really looking forward to using the 2000.

Thanks

George Taylor

[Jeff Farris]

George,

The motor should sound nearly silent when running without load.

As for the grindstone, get it wet and scrub the inside surface with the coarse side of the stone grader. That should remove the oxidation, which will have negligible effect on the new shaft you have purchased.

[gat54]

Thanks for the reply, Jeff; I will clean up the stone tomorrow.  I turned the unit on with the stone of and the shaft completely removed and the motor was still making a consistent grinding sound.  Almost like when the ignition can't quite turn over the engine of a an older car (not quite that loud).  That is just the sound, the motor at this point seemed to be moving the stone consistently when i turned the unit on initially.  I guess a replacement motor could be in my future.  I guess I didn't get such a great deal on eBay. 

Thanks again

George

[Ken S]

George, don't despair (at least not quite yet!).

When I installed the EZYlock shaft, I was impressed with what a simple machine the Tormek is.  That's not a criticism.  I was also impressed with the machine of the new shaft. 

If I was in your situation, I would look for a good local electric motor repair shop.  Your motor may just need a bearing replacement.  This may or may not be a viable option, but it seems worth a try.

Ken

[Herman Trivilino]

Sounds like there might be some crud inside the motor.  I don't know if there's anyway to ake it apart, or blow compressed air into it, to clean it out.

[gat54]

I will check around with my local club; not that you mention it, it sounds like bearings.

The drive shaft that turns the wheels also has a bunch of black "gunk" on it which I will clean off.  This us nit must have gotten a lot of use ...

Thanks for the feedback

[Ken S]

I like Herman's suggestion; get rid of the "crud" first.  My first line of attack would be "goo gone".  If that doesn't do the trick, and i think it might not, I would try something like lacquer thinner.  Bob Vaughn wrote a very good article many years ago in Fine Woodworking about restoring an old Walker Turner bandsaw.  He recommended lacquer WITH VERY GOOD VENTILATION.

Once you are decrudded, I would turn on the motor and listen.  I still think you might have a bearing issue, however, I would love to be wrong.  At least you would have a clean motor at this point.

Do keep us posted and good luck.

Ken

[Herman Trivilino]

The drive shaft that turns the wheels also has a bunch of black "gunk" on it which I will clean off.  This us nit must have gotten a lot of use ...

That's normal.  Clean the drive wheel, too, and then scruff it up with sandpaper.

[Mike Fairleigh]

For cleaning my motor shaft, I just run the motor with the edge of one of these against the shaft (the fine one):



It's just abrasive enough to polish up the shaft without leaving any marks.  This is just an FYI - a shaft that's really crudded up probably needs something more aggressive.

[Ken S]

The Sandflex blocks are so useful.  I've used them for years, and would recommend everyone have a set of three.  They restore metal tool surfaces whenever there is a starting bit of rust or stain.  They last a very long time and are not expensive.

Clever application, Mike,

Ken

[gat54]

I think I have a working machine.  I really couldn't get the motor out to clean it thoroughly since the phillips heads are all stripped; so I sprayed air and degreaser and air again and then squirted some 3-in-1 and now it seems to be a bit quieter (still not whisper quiet).  Pitched everything with rust, cleaned the stone and installed the EZ Lock.  Put 3 bottles of water in the trough an then trued it up.  Sharpened my favorite bowl gouge and then gave it a test run on the lathe ... seems to be cutting very well.  I will have to look at the videos again on honing (especially with the gouge jig).  The seller (eBay) didn't like my dissatisfied rating and wanted me to return it.  He still claims no rust; oh well, I believe I have a serviceable machine (at least for several years - hopefully) ... if I need a new motor then, I have probably got my moneys worth.

Thanks for all the input and support ...

George

[Ken S]

George,
I wouldn't give up on repairing the motor quite yet.  There are tools called "Easy Outs".  You would drill small holes in the Phillips screws and thread these into the holes.  They have left hand threads.  Once they seat, they are supposed to back out the screws.  I would talk to a motor repait shop before trying it.

Either way, you have a working Tormek. 

Best of luck with your Tormek; it may work for many years, despite being noisy.

Ken