Square edge jig 90deg. not sharpening square?

[Angstrom]

Hello everyone.   I'm new to the tormek family, I just started using my own T-7 & am having a blast.
After a few days of playing around with my  new machine, I've noticed my square edge jig
side wall set is not producing a square grind.   

At first I had a 0.7mm wobble, fixed that with a 1/4 turn of my washer.
My motor was making a Pulsing noise, it's going away with time as I'm
breaking in the motor. My stone was up and down , but since I've used my truing jig
the stone has been perfect.     

With the help of your forum and its member's I've fixed/solved most of the little bump and kinks.

But I was expecting to sit my tools snug on the side of the Square edge jig to produce a 90deg. grind....
I'm finding I have to adjust and slightly offset by eye. Is this normal?

Thank you for any tips you can give.

[Mike Fairleigh]

I'm not sure I understand all of what you said (what is the washer you adjusted?) - but, as to the square edge jig - I've found that some of my tools that have "square edges and parallel sides" - some of them don't.  Even one of my very high end plane irons has a slight wave along one edge.  Any such imperfections will make it necessary to adjust slightly in the jig.  I've found that the thing that helps the most is what many have learned before - darken the whole bevel with a Sharpie, mount the tool in the jig, and turn the wheel by hand first to see where steel will be removed.  If it isn't removing steel where you expected, try to understand why before proceeding.

I bought a 3" stainless steel Starrett engineer's square which I use along the edges and sides of blades before grinding them so that I know exactly what I'm working with.  It's proven to be invaluable.  With it, I've learned that the blade in question isn't always what I thought it was (wavy sides, factory edge wasn't perfectly square to begin with, etc.).  I've found that the secret to grinding is to start out knowing what you actually have, what you're trying to achieve, and check your progress frequently.

[Mike Fairleigh]

Here's a photo of the iron which I discovered has a slight wave along the side that registers in the square edge jig.  It's out of a Lie-Nielsen low angle bronze block plane.  Because I was able to see the waviness using the engineer's square, I was able to adjust slightly, re-profile the bevel from a flat grind to the hollow, and successfully grind a perfect hollow.  (The flats you see are the result of taking the iron to a waterstone, which is my final step for my woodworking tools.)  This is my first truly successful Tormek grind and it happened without a lot of practice.

[Angstrom]

I'm not sure I understand all of what you said (what is the washer you adjusted?) -frequently.

The inside washer that sit's off the stone & where the shaft enters inside the casing. 
Its a bit annoying. Sometimes it can take me some time to find the sweet spot as the wobble is close to 1mm at its worst.
At best, Its a 0.5mm wobble.      So each time I take off my wheel  is it normal to have to do a hole new truing every time?
That wheel is up and down a lot and it shows when I'm truing it.


I'll have to get a smaller square. thx.  I guess all my 6 chisels are scrap. 
I also think the weird noise is coming from a small flat washer that looks bent out of shape on the honing side.

[Mike Fairleigh]

In my opinion you should not have any wheel wobble.  I wonder if you've got a defective wheel or bent shaft.

[Angstrom]

In my opinion you should not have any wheel wobble.  I wonder if you've got a defective wheel or bent shaft.

   Ya I do.    I'm dealing with customer service right now.    Just my luck

Just checked my universal support shaft. Its off square from my stone.   
That explains My chisels.

[Mike Fairleigh]

I think I have a rubber wheel that's more out-of-round than it should be.  Though my grinding wheel runs true where it counts, the motor pivots a long distance with each rotation of the wheel and makes a regular surging sound.  Honing on the leather wheel is borderline annoying, I think a combination of the rubber wheel issue and the seam in the leather (which I haven't taken time to try to address yet).

[Jeff Farris]

The "surge" comes from the point on the rubber tire where the motor shaft last rested on it. When the dimple comes around, the motor dips a little. Though it plays tricks on your mind, it doesn't affect the speed or torque of the wheels.

As for the seam, a bit of sandpaper will knock it down.