Basic beginner questions

[Tim H]

Have my new Tormek.  I have used one previously for a class, so some experience. As I try to get my mind around everything I keep thinking that I can out think what has previously been thought out.  So I have some questions I am hoping someone has answers to.  In most cases a yes or no is all I need (I have read the booklet but just thinking too much), or some thing short and on point.

1. Should I be able to feel the stone and know if it is set up course or fine?

2. Booklet says maybe 45 seconds of pressure when using the Stone Grader.  Does that sound about right?  How does one know for sure?

2A. If needing to remove a good bit of metal to change an angle will one need to re-surface the stone several time, or once re-graded is it good to go until you need the other surface?

3. Is it practical to think that one could do 3-4 chisels with the course set-up, change the stone to fine, then do these 3-4 chisels fine?  Or must one keep the metal in the jig and complete the process to the end then start a new chisel, changing the stone grade back and forth?

4.  Is the length of the chisel beyond the jig to the stone important or is the angle all accommodated with the adjustment of the Universal Support?

5.  Any reason to record the length of metal from jig to its end and alway have the same length each time you do this same chisel?

6. I have used the angle setting tool and it seems simple enough, even for me.  But once I have the angle I want on a piece of metal it is good enough for future sharpening to just eyeball the contact to the stone from the side, fitting the stone in the hollow bevel on the metal?  Seems like one can see a good fit from the side.

7.  Was thinking I could go from stone to leather without resetting angle to the leather, just move the Support.  But the obvious difference in diameter say no.  Correct?

8.  Have attempted to use a Marker on the bevel to set to the leather but compound on the leather quickly removes all of the black ink or just junks up the view.  Am I doing this wrong? 

9.  I assume I can (should) use the angle setting tool with the leather?  Is this as good as the Marker route?

10.  What will the leather look like once it is broken in?  How quickly does this happen?

OK.  Don't want to push my luck.  That is it for now.

Thanks.  Tim

[jeffs55]

IMHO
1. You  can feel the grade difference.
2. Once again, grade until you feel the difference.
2A. You may need to clear ground metal by regrading more than once.
3. Only if the chisels are all the exact same angle. Also, it is possible for wear to become a factor if the chisels are particularly hard thereby causing more rapid wear and bringing about the need to regrade and/ or reset the angle.
4. The angle of the work piece to the stone is what you need to be concerned with.
5. No, the stone diameter will change with use rendering that measurement moot.
6. If your eyes are sharp enough to eyeball then go for it. I like to use a black marker and observe where the stone touches the workpiece.
7. No is correct. The angle will change with the diameter of the wheel.
8. It must remove the ink to let you know where the contact point is. The shiny spot is the point of contact. When it reaches the edge of the workpiece that is when you lock it down and grind/ buff away.
9. Use the marker or angle setter but the marker is more exact as it is a visual cue.
10.  It is good to go from the start but as it is used it will darken a lot and get smoother. It will lose its "hair". No break in required.
Good luck.

[mGuitars]

I too initially thought that it would make more sense to grind all the tools on the coarse stone, then grade it to fine.  The problems are you will end up wearing the stone faster because you will load up the stone and have to regrade/refresh it as you go more. You will also have to reset the jig and support a lot more times.  It saves nothing.  Just do each tool separately, going though coarse - fine - leather, then next tool.

[Ken S]

I'll add my vote for following through with each tool.  It's too easy to replace the tool back in the jig slightly differently.

Ken