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General questions after first try at T-7

Started by Bill Solberg, July 12, 2011, 01:32:57 AM

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Bill Solberg

After truing the new wheel and checking squareness, I took up the SE-76 for a tryout on a 22 mm firmer chisel (Span Sage). I have some general questions :

(1) early on, I observed blackened metallic marks streaking the middle one third of the wheel. This does not seem to disappear with rough grading of the wheel. This is normal?

(2) I decided to reshape this chisel from about 30 to 20 degrees, as I'm using it for hand woodcarving. This literally took several hours, mostly owing to the degree of metal that needed to be removed. Aside from re-grading the wheel periodically, are there any other tactics that can be used to speed up the reshaping using the T-7? I think I will reshape with much deliberation otherwise.

(3) While not part of the procedure, would squaring the edge of the chisel first help in any way?

Thanks, Bill.
William Solberg
Cape Cod Signs/West
Los Angeles, CA 90034
310 709 3453

Jeff Farris

Bill,

That was a big change, and not one I would suggest as a project to "learn" the system.

The metal on the wheel is indeed normal. If you can't get rid of it with the grader, you're babying the grader. Lean on it a little. You can also tip it so that only the edge of the grader is engaged on the stone. It will cut into the stone faster that way. That may also be why your reshaping job took so long. Don't be afraid to use some pressure, both when grading and when grinding.
Jeff Farris

Bill Solberg

Thanks for your helpful comment, Jeff. Your responsiveness is charming. Compared with professional sign carvers and such, I am trying to keep my shapes and sharpness well above that of their shop standard (which in one case dictates quick and dirty dry grinding, belt sander, and honing with a buffer). Still, I'm mulling over getting a decent 1800 rpm lathe to do speed up this type of daunting reshaping. Hand carving tools just do not even approach what I have been trained to use as an optimal edge angle. Once knocking off the bulk, I'd use the T-7, then hand finish, then hone with the T=7, then final honing on a strop. I would continue to do 95% of my edge maintenance with the T-7 and my hand. I know this is an awful thought for those following water-cooled sharpening systems, but time allocation realities might sway me. Bill Solberg
William Solberg
Cape Cod Signs/West
Los Angeles, CA 90034
310 709 3453