Conditioning the honing wheel

[mGuitars]

Yeah, this is the same wheel!  I thought my manual said to use "any light machine oil".  I'll have to double check that, but I believe that's what led me to using the 3-in-1.  Never again.

[ionut]

You are right, it says light machine oil, I probably forgot as I read the manual a long time ago. Sorry for that, the mineral oil just got stuck somehow in my head but I believe it is the best choice for leather honing.
I am glad you were able to restore your wheel and is working.

Ionut

[Herman Trivilino]

I'm so glad this discussion took place here.  I've been over-oiling my honing wheel for years.  Today I sharpened every knife in the kitchen.  As I added compound to the wheel it kept coming off as a dirty liquid goo.  I kept removing the goo add adding fresh compound until I got the wheel cutting properly. 

I was able to quickly sharpen and hone every knife.  It was the fastest and smoothest sharpening session I've ever had.

I will never again add oil. Just fresh compound.

[greggy]

i have had tormeks for 18 years and totaly agree with jeff farris.
he is spot on.

[Herman Trivilino]

An over-oiled wheel will not cut no matter what you do or how much compound you apply. I've tried to squeeze and scrape the extra oil out in dozens of cases and have rarely been successful.

As I said earlier in this thread, my wheel was over-oiled and had that slick supple appearance you talked about.  Problem was, though, it wouldn't cut.  I was able to restore it by squeezing out and scraping off the excess oil.  This process has to be repeated, though, as the embedded oil tends to mix with the residue of compound left from the previous use, and after days or weeks of resting more squeezing and scraping is required.

After some persistence, I can get the wheel to cut again.  I would have been much better off, though, had I not over-oiled it to begin with.

[Jeff Farris]

Herman,

Notice that I said "rarely".   I've saved a few with exactly the process you describe...that is repeated scraping with a few days in between.

[ionut]

As I said in a different post before, besides the scrapping method I have found that washing thoroughly the wheel in mineral spirits, and then with warm water and dish detergent and letting it dry for a day will bring the wheel to close to a new condition.
I have used this method with my second wheel while experimenting with different home made honing compounds. It is faster as it does not have to be repeated so many time and it is easier on the leather and of course more effective.

Ionut

[Steve Brown]

What exactly do you mean by "washing" in mineral spirits? I used 3 in 1 on my big wheel and honing oil on the profile wheel. Honing oil is better.
Steve

[GIPPER]

Sorry to chime in on this informative discussion, especially when I don't know very much about it.  All I know is, that many years ago, as a young Boy Scout, I used to hone my knife blades with the back-side of my Grand Dad's leather belt stuck into a cabinet drawer, and held out horizontally.  No oil; no honing paste.  That was good enough to put an extra sharp edge on any knife.
Today, with all the talk about conditioning the honing wheels, I sure do wonder a lot.  But here's the question.  In all the past comments, it has been stated by many, there is, 3 in 1 oil, honing oil, light mineral oil, mineral oil, thinned mineral oil, and mineral oil/spirit.  Is there any wonder why I should ask, if oil of some kind is necessary on the honing wheel, then what would be a good one to use; what, by name, and where to buy it?  Can there be a commonly accepted one just for discussions?  Gipper

[Jeff Farris]

Drug store mineral oil from the laxative section is as good a solution as anything available and is the most economical option available in the U.S.  It is not as widely available in other parts of the world.

Baby oil is mineral oil with fragrance added.

As I have posted dozens of times, the point of the oil is a one time conditioning treatment only. Don't get too wrapped up in the oil thing. There's plenty of oil in the honing compound. Just apply some compound and polish your tools. A LITTLE bit of oil on the leather when it is brand new will save you a LITTLE bit of honing compound in getting your honing wheel broken in.

[ionut]

What exactly do you mean by "washing" in mineral spirits? I used 3 in 1 on my big wheel and honing oil on the profile wheel. Honing oil is better.
Steve

Steve,

I was referring to a cleaning alternative for the wheel in case it got over oiled, as a response to the previous two posts.
I use honing oil too, is thin and works perfectly, I have tried the pharmacy mineral oil but I find it too thick and until I've tried it I didn't understand how a wheel can get over oiled. Being thicker it is easier to over oil the wheel as the leather does not absorb it fast enough and by the time you think is enough it is already too much.

Ionut

[Steve Brown]

Ionut,
But what is the actual process you use with the mineral spirits on the wheel? Do you use a rag or a paper towel and hold it on the wheel while it turns or do you remove the wheel and then use a paper towel or rag soaked in mineral spirits. I guess what I'm really asking is how agressively do you approach the removal process. I mean, do you remove the black surface build up to the point where you can see the brown of the leather like when it was new, or do you just cleah it up a little such that you can just feel some of the old texture, but not down to the original leather? does that make sense? BTW, are you that famous Software Engineer from up there around BC?

[ionut]

Hi Steve,

I use a big plastic bowl with enough mineral spirit, I take the wheel off and soak it in the bowl and use a plastic brush to clean the wheel. From time to time using a metal rod I roll the wheel on some paper towels or shop towels leaning on the wheel to allow the mess to come out and then I soak it and scrub it again in the mineral spirit. I repeat this process until the whole mess is removed and  I can see the brown color of the leather. It will never get to look light orange as it was when new but it will get pretty light brown when is dry. After washing it with mineral oil move to the sink and wash it thoroughly with hot water and dish detergent until the leather is not slippery anymore. Then let it dry over night.
That's what I've done a couple of times while playing with different honing compounds and it worked fine for me. You only have to do it if you got it over oiled or like me I was trying all kinds of mess on it. Be careful do not use other solvents like Lacquer thinner or Xylene, they will dissolve the plastic.
"I am just a lowly cook"...

Ionut

[Steve Brown]

Ionut,
You'll never be just a lowly cook. I know the type, always strive for excellence. Your response was very clear and easy to follow. Thank you for that.
Steve

[Ken S]

I'm glad we are all friendly......Great schisms and feuds have begun with issues like this.

Ken