First Tormek, pretty old, pretty dirty, some questions

[Avispex]

Hello all,

After almost 15 years of buying and selling online, last week I was completely scammed.  I had such a great streak of good luck and positive transactions that I absolutely let my guard down and sent a payment for a Tormek T-8 with some turning tool accessories and the seller disappeared faster than you can say Spezialschleifstein.  Anyway, I have no idea if I am getting that money back, but I turned my attention to less shiny options and grabbed a pretty gritty Supergrind 2000 that came with a box of new accessories.  I knew how expensive all of these accessories could be, so I thought I was getting a great deal until I got home and realized that half of the stuff had been upgraded two or three times to new versions.  In any case, I own one and I'd like to get it spruced up for use.

It had barely been used by the original owner -the stone measures a bit over 9.75" as I purchased it- and when he passed away it went to his son who never used it at all and sold it to me.  I would like to do some basic maintenance and a few upgrades and then get to work sharpening some turning tools and woodworking tools.  I have wetstones and a slow speed grinder, so this will just be one of the tools in my sharpening arsenal if I can get it in working condition.  I don't think any maintenance was done on it, and then it was basically stored for maybe 20 years?  Maybe a bit more?

Here are my questions in no particular order:

Does the leather need any kind of conditioner or moisturizer to help it last?

Does the motor have bearings that need to be replaced or lubricated?

Is the nut on the stone on the Supergrind 2000 reverse threaded like on the modern ones?

My horizontal base only has a knob on the right side.  If I use that with a new micro adjust will it damage the theads?

Is it possible to effectively true a stone with the old version ADV-50D?

Is the stone I have labeled "Supergrind" the same as the current SG-250 Original?

Is there a replacement gel cover for the power switch on top of my Tormek?  The current one is a bit yellowed and dusty to the point where it is close to opaque.

I'd really like to put some much needed grease on the current shaft, but I can't get the nut off on the stone side.  I'm guessing it has some corrosion.  I assumed this referred to the stone attaching to the shaft, but maybe it refers to the nut rusting on to the shaft?  I assume that it is reverse threaded and I am just fighting a corrosion battle at this point, but I don't want to move further with setting it up if I can't get past this part first.  As I work thorugh this, how tough or fragile is that stone? 

Lastly, If I can get things up and running with my current setup, I don't see any real need to invest in a newer unit.  I'm fine making a few incremental upgrades.  A modern shaft, new universal support, maybe a new drive wheel, horizontal base, gouge jig, modern truing tool, things like that.  Obviously, the stone needed to be trued, and if I can make do with the current shaft for a bit, I am willing to gove it a try, but I'm starting off with that stuck nut, so I feel like solving that comes first.

Thanks for any answers, advice, or tips you can share.

Be well,

Andy

[John Hancock Sr]

Does the leather need any kind of conditioner or moisturizer to help it last?

Yes. Light machine oil is ideal, but I use Ballistol which is leather safe. Either way you can't go wrong. If there is a build up (mine had this) use a steel edge or back of an old knife on the wheel to scrape off the old residue before freshening with the oil.

Does the motor have bearings that need to be replaced or lubricated?

No. If there is any noise in the motor bearings then they may need replacing or a replacement motor, but they should not need lubrication.  On the other hand the shaft does. I use white lithium grease which is very sticky. You can get a small pot from your local automotive store. I would not use the spray!

Is the nut on the stone on the Supergrind 2000 reverse threaded like on the modern ones?

Yes. Also if the shaft is damaged or rusted beyond useability then you can replace it with a new stainless shaft.

My horizontal base only has a knob on the right side.  If I use that with a new micro adjust will it damage the theads?

No you will be fine. It is just less precise. You can replace the mount with one with two screws if you wish.

Is it possible to effectively true a stone with the old version ADV-50D?

I don't see any reason why not. You just need to be more careful using it is all. The new trueing tool is just more mistake proof.

Is the stone I have labeled "Supergrind" the same as the current SG-250 Original?

I think so. They changed from natural stone to synthetic stone in the 80s I believe. Since then the stone has pretty much been the same. Just changed labels AFAIK.

Is there a replacement gel cover for the power switch on top of my Tormek?  The current one is a bit yellowed and dusty to the point where it is close to opaque.

Tormek do supply replacement switches. Contact you local dealer or contact Tormek direct. The Tormek support is the best in the business so don't be afraid to contact them directly.

When I got my second hand T7 the shaft was rusted and the stone was stuck tight onto the shaft, despite it being "stainless". I doubt that it had ever been removed. It is good practice to remove the wheel between sessions. As a result the shaft was unusable and the wheel broke as I tried to remove it. I had to buy a new wheel and shaft, but despite that it was still a bargain. If you cannot safely remove the wheel don't try too hard. If I had not broken mine I could have still used it as a backup. You can remove the honing wheels and pull the shaft out from the opposite side.

[Thread Killer]

Ditto on changing the shaft with a stainless one.  I have the same S/G 200O unit, and it works great.  That honing wheel looks to be unused and yes it will need oil.  It appears not used much so the wheel SHOULD come off. YMMV Once the wheels are off a good wipe down/cleaning is in order.

[RichColvin]

I have a Tormek SG-2000, and have a few different opinions than John.

Is the nut on the stone on the Supergrind 2000 reverse threaded like on the modern ones?

I replaced my original shaft with the newer, stainless steel shaft as mentioned by John.  That is a worthwhile upgrade.  But, in answer to your question, I believe the original shaft is not reverse threaded like the newer shaft.

My horizontal base only has a knob on the right side.  If I use that with a new micro adjust will it damage the theads?

You should get a 2nd knob.  They are M6-1.0 threads.

Is it possible to effectively true a stone with the old version ADV-50D?

NO, the ADV-50 is no comparison to the newer TT-50.  I was never really able to true my stone with the ADV-50.

I believe there is a version which does not include the diamond tip, allowing you to transfer it from the ADV-50. 

Is the stone I have labeled "Supergrind" the same as the current SG-250 Original?

Yes

[John Hancock Sr]

You should get a 2nd knob.  They are M6-1.0 threads.

Looking at the image it has not been tapped for a second screw.

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Andy. With a very few minor exceptions, I agree with the advice already offered.

The threads on the main shaft before the EZYlock were all right hand. Your SuperGrind wheel is almost new, and would be expensive to replace. Be very patient and persistent. Your efforts will be well rewarded if you ban save it. Time and penetrating oil, time measured in days, are the usual recipe. It may be easier to do if you unscrew and remove the shaft from the drive wheel end. Your bestfriend in this is Tormek support (support@tormek.se) After you remove the grinding wheel and clean up the shaft and nut threads with scotchbrite, you can make the judgement call whether or not to replace the shaft. The only replacement shaft is the new EZYlock. It is a substantial improvement over the older non stainless shafts. If money is not tight, I would suggest replacing it.

Ask support about the switch cover.

The newest version of the TT-50 truing tool (see this photograph)is a definite priority for accurate truing and dressing of your grinding wheel. It works best with the newest version of the US-105 universal support bar with threaded microadjust.

Keep us posted and do not hesitate to ask questions.

Ken

[Dutchman]

Looking at the image it has not been tapped for a second screw.

... and the thickness of the material doesn't seem suitable to me either

[RichColvin]

Looking at the image it has not been tapped for a second screw.

... and the thickness of the material doesn't seem suitable to me either

Good call.  Might be best to replace it with the XB-100.  

https://tormek.com/en/products/spare-parts/tormek-original-parts/xb-100-horizontal-base

But that is not critical. 

[RichColvin]

Andy,

Your machine has the old-style profiled leather honing wheel (LA-100) which was replaced and is no longer sold.   You should keep that. 

Rich

[Avispex]

Hi all.  Thanks for the replies and information so far.  I have some very minor updates.

I used penetrating oil on the stuck nut and left the machine for a bit while I did some more research.  The next day I pulled the pin from the drive side of the shaft, and removed the shaft with the stone still on.  I then put a 19mm box end wrench on the nut and rolled the stone on the carpet, back and forth so that the momentum of the other end of the wrench hitting the floor would start to unscrew it.  After 5 or 6 rolls it started to budge and then came unstuck.  The threads and shaft look fine, so once greased I expect that I will be able to continue to use this shaft and stone for a few more years.  I hve ordered a few parts, but I feel that I will need to bite the bullet and order the new version of the truing tool before I try to sharpen anything. 

I was also able to clean up the machine and everything seems like it is in really good shape so I am feeling better now and looking forward to actually using it soon.  I'll try to get some pictures loaded up tomorrow.

Thanks all,

Andy

[RichColvin]

I've seen this style of question pop up repeatedly over the years, so I've compiled my experience into this page:  https://sharpeninghandbook.info/PurchasedAnOldTormek.html.

It is a bit long, but I think it should answer many questions for the new owner of an old Tormek machine.

[Avispex]

Rich, thank you.  That is a great resource and reference.  I don't know why that isn't the stickied post for beginners instead of the thing about sharpening a chisel.

Andy

[Thread Killer]

I've seen this style of question pop up repeatedly over the years, so I've compiled my experience into this page:  https://sharpeninghandbook.info/PurchasedAnOldTormek.html.

It is a bit long, but I think it should answer many questions for the new owner of an old Tormek machine.

WOW! Good post....  I think the KS123 has overtaken the WM-200 for knives. I wish I could find the drill bit jig cheaper, it is allot to commit to.