Looking for Some Advice on Tormek Sharpening System Setup ??

[marcelosalaaas]

Hello everyone,

I recently purchased a Tormek sharpening system and I am excited to get started !! However, I have a few questions about the best setup and techniques for beginners.

Stone Selection: Which grinding stone do you recommend for general woodworking tools: ?? I have seen options like the SG 250 and the SG 200. What is the difference and which one is more versatile: ??

Angle Settings: I am a bit confused about setting the correct bevel angle for chisels and plane blades. Is there a general guideline for the best angles to use: ??

Maintenance Tips: Any tips for maintaining the Tormek system to ensure it lasts a long time and stays effective: ??

I appreciate any insights you all can provide. I am eager to learn and make the most out of my new sharpening setup. Thanks in advance !!

Thanks
Marcelo Salas

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Marcelo.

My best advice for you is to study Tormek's online classes on youtube. These classes are readily available at no cost and are done by Tormek's teaching staff.
here is a link:

https://www.youtube.com/live/wMATay8ITE8?si=x7skyngvcNEitFal

The handbook is also an excellent learning reference.

The best choice of a first grinding wheel is the SG. The 200 or 250 refers to the wheel diameter. The 200mm fits the T4; the 250mm fits the T8. The SuperGrind is designed for woodworking tools and knives. It is a versatile wheel. I suggest it as your only grinding wheel as you learn to use your Tormek. You can always add other wheels later if you wish.

You can save much time if you use a notebook to record the timestamp for areas on the online classes for quick reference.

Keep us posted and do not hesitate to ask questions.

Ken

[tgbto]

As for chisels and plane blades, especially if you are getting started with the Tormek, I'd recommend not altering the angle for the moment, as they often come with a factory angle that's tailored to their intended use. Resetting the angle can be time consuming especially when making it more acute on those massive blades.

And when trying to reproduce an angle, the "sharpie method" where you blacken the bevel, then use the microadjust nut to reach the angle where you remove the sharpie completely, is your friend. You can use the WM-200 AngleMaster to guesstimate the angle and roughly set the USB height.

Try to keep two things in mind :
- It is better to reach your desired angle by adjusting the USB height upward (so going from a lower angle to a higher one). It avoids backlash and makes the adjustment smoother.
- On large chisels, which will most likely have a flat grind to begin with, what you're trying to achieve with the sharpie method is to remove as much ink as possible *while still hitting the apex* of the chisel. If you remove ink in the middle you are not sharpening the apex, and if you remove too little ink at the APEX you're increasing the apex angle.

Hope it is clear, happy sharpening !

[John_B]

As far as maintenance is concerned I recommend that you true your wheel more often but base it on your usage. Delaying truing is a false economy as you will need to remove a great deal of stone if you go for extended periods without truing. Of course the frequency is directly related to your usage.

[MerryMadMick]

I've had a T-8 for a little over 4 months now, and here is what I've learned:

I run two wheels, the stock SG-250 I keep at 1000ish grit and a SB-250 that I keep at 300ish grit.  I tried the Japanese stone, which produced a lovely ultra sharp edge but mine had quality issues and would never run true.

I use a low speed grinder with CBN wheels and a Tormek grinder attachment so I can use the jigs when I reset bevels.  Don't try and use your Tormek to reset bevels, you will pull your hair out and question your investment.

The grading stone I find to be a hinderance and I was never happy with it.  I use two diamond steel plates (80-grit for 300ish and 400-grit for 1000ist) on a custom jig I made to clean and grade wheels.  Since I've stopped using the grading stone and started using the diamond plates and jig I rarely have to use the truing tool.

For the leather wheel, I use the green stropping compound opposed to the diamond paste.  Much nicer edge, easier to apply and much cleaner.  I almost bought a composite stropping wheel but since I started using the stropping compound, I see no need.

I like the T-8 now and enjoy using it.  I almost returned it a few times, but now that I've worked through the frustrations I'm happy with the results.

(edit)  I only use the angle setting tool on my plane irons, chisels, ect  when I'm resetting the primary bevel on the CBN wheel (set for 8" diameter), otherwise I use the marker method if I'm repairing or resharpening.  When you use the square tool jig for your irons and chisels, always have a small square and a small hammer on hand to make sure the steel is perpendicular to the jig.  Don't just trust the square-up ridge on the jig.

Hope this helps.

[John Hancock Sr]

A few more notes.

If you buy the SG- which I recommend strongly, this will do almost everything you need, then also get the SP-650 grader to grade between fine and coarse.

For removing chips I use a belt sander (keep a water container handy for keeping the tool cool) and gently work away at the primary bevel until you have removed the chip.

Make sure you remove the wheel between sessions. It is easy to get the wheel stuck if you leave it on.

Keep the machine lubricated. I use the adage a little often.

Seek out the videos recommended by Ken from the official Tormek channel. Watch those relating to chisels and plane blades first, obviously. They are well worth the time.

Be sure to come back and post any more specific questions here. There are plenty of knowledgeable, experienced  and helpful people ready and willing to help.

[tgbto]

Maybe a different view on just the following topic :

If you buy the SG- which I recommend strongly, this will do almost everything you need, then also get the SP-650 grader to grade between fine and coarse.

I would concur with @MerryMadMick : I never use the SP-650 for grading, and only from time to time to round out the edges of the wheel. The SE-77 jig with a couple diamond stones is a better investment in my opinion. Plus the OP mentioned sharpening woodworking tools so they will probably have a SE-77 anyway.

And just a word of advice on grading with diamond plates and the SE-77 : while it is definitely more controlled and efficient than grading with the SP-650, and while it is true that it will keep the wheel (much more) parallel to the USB than using the SP-650 freehand, it can (and probably will) make the stone run out of round by accentuating the low spots. The solution to that is to have a MB-102/FVB and rest the diamond plate on the FUSB as well, in order to keep a constant radius.

[BPalv]

A few more notes.

If you buy the SG- which I recommend strongly, this will do almost everything you need, then also get the SP-650 grader to grade between fine and coarse.

For removing chips I use a belt sander (keep a water container handy for keeping the tool cool) and gently work away at the primary bevel until you have removed the chip.

Make sure you remove the wheel between sessions. It is easy to get the wheel stuck if you leave it on.

Keep the machine lubricated. I use the adage a little often.

Seek out the videos recommended by Ken from the official Tormek channel. Watch those relating to chisels and plane blades first, obviously. They are well worth the time.

Be sure to come back and post any more specific questions here. There are plenty of knowledgeable, experienced  and helpful people ready and willing to help.

After watching videos of how quickly the apex overheats I started using belt grease on my sanding belts.  I use a couple of Rikon 1x30's one for stropping, one for grinding. Dipping tools, knives cools them down after, grease helps cool during.  There are several different varieties of belt coolant out there.