Insufficient results T1

[Larsrise]

I recently bought a T1 expected to sharpen my knives myself instead of by a professional. Tormek advertise the product for homeowners, so you should expect to use the product with very little experience.

But no matter how precisely I follow online video or written guides I don't seem to get a satisfactory result.
Even though I grind several (+20) time on each side, and for several minutes I am not able to form this burr that is important according to videos. Should I always be abble to detect a burr ? Or will the steel quality impact on the burr-size ?

I use an angle of 15 degrees. And after the following honing the knives are not as sharp as expected. And nowhere near to pass the paper test.
I have used a marker and a magnifying glass to check the angle is ok. It seems so.

I am a not sure if I am using the right angle when honing. How critical is the honing angle? As there is no guide supplied.
And for how long should I hone How critical  I cannot "hear the burr" as stated in some videos.

Does anyone have some tips for a frustrated amateur 

[RickKrung]

I know essentially nothing about the T1, other than I read on the Tormek site that it has a fine grain grinding wheel.  This makes me wonder if your knives require more metal removal than a fine grain wheel is suited for.  This could occur if the bevel on the blades is significantly different than what you are grinding at, or if they are significantly convexed (rounded over from inexact angle control or extremely dull).  The result might be that the apex of the blade just has not been reached such that a burr could be formed.  I've noticed this with some knives when the angles are different and/or when they are so dull that a huge amount of metal must be removed to reach the apex. 

Rick

[cbwx34]

I recently bought a T1 expected to sharpen my knives myself instead of by a professional. Tormek advertise the product for homeowners, so you should expect to use the product with very little experience.

But no matter how precisely I follow online video or written guides I don't seem to get a satisfactory result.
Even though I grind several (+20) time on each side, and for several minutes I am not able to form this burr that is important according to videos. Should I always be abble to detect a burr ? Or will the steel quality impact on the burr-size ?

I use an angle of 15 degrees. And after the following honing the knives are not as sharp as expected. And nowhere near to pass the paper test.
I have used a marker and a magnifying glass to check the angle is ok. It seems so.

I am a not sure if I am using the right angle when honing. How critical is the honing angle? As there is no guide supplied.
And for how long should I hone How critical  I cannot "hear the burr" as stated in some videos.

Does anyone have some tips for a frustrated amateur 

I'll add to what Rick said... that the apex has not been reached.  Sometimes, when changing angles, that last "little bit" of the previous angle, right at the edge, (almost microscopic), isn't ground away, and can take quite a bit to get there, especially on a fine wheel.  Even marking the edge, and looking under magnification, it can be hard to see.

The best way to insure it, is to make sure you form a burr.  Grind one side, until the burr is formed, then switch sides.  (If you grind alternating each stroke, it would be harder to detect.)

Honing angle isn't "critical", as long as you hone near the sharpening angle.  Once you create a burr, I'm pretty sure you'll be able to "hear" it.

When you sharpen a knife with a different method and different angle than what is currently on the knife, it can take a while to get it sharp.  You might consider, for practice, taking another knife, match the angle, or even set a slightly higher angle, and practice on it, so it'll be easier to get thru the process... and learn a bit easier what to look for.

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Lars.

You are on the right path using a marker and checking your angle with a magnifying glass.

I started sharpening knives with my now thirty year old set of Henckels. I have gradually added five Victorinox fibrox knives. These, or comparable knives are reasonably priced quality knives. I use them in my kitchen and, primarily, as sharpening knives. They are made of good steel and reasonably sharp when new. My suggestion for you would be to purchase a couple of these knives. Start by sharpening a knife which is just not quite sharp. As you become fluent sharpening knives which need very little sharpening, add knives which require more work.

Keep at least one of these sharpening knives with your T1. Photographers used to keep a "Shirley" negative in the darkroom. A Shirley was a portrait negative which required no special manipulation to make an excellent print. During a frustrating printing session, if the Shirley negative made an excellent print, the photographer knew the chemicals and photo paper were working properly. If not, they were the problem. If you have a difficult sharpening session, sharpen your "known easy" sharpening knife. If it sharpens easily, look at the other knife as a possible trouble source.

Keep us posted.

Ken