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Started by Gilles, May 15, 2020, 06:21:50 PM
Quote from: cbwx34 on May 23, 2020, 11:45:01 PM...snip....My 2 cents (and I don't think I'm alone here)... measuring directly to the wheel is the better route. It's quick, easy, accurate, and machine independent. No matter what configuration: horizontal, vertical, FVB, etc., or even if you transition to another machine like a buffer with a honing wheel of some sort, you're good to go.I've gone the route of "measuring to the machine"... and it just causes me unnecessary work, and I don't see any better result. Measuring to the machine is just a step added after measuring to the wheel, (with a bunch more measurements you now have to account for). ...snip...
Quote from: RickKrung on May 24, 2020, 05:03:08 AMCB is right about measuring directly to the wheel. It eliminates all of the unnecessary measurements and associated error, except two: 1) the one direct measurement and 2) alignment of the measurement probe with the centerline between the USB and machine shaft. A major benefit is that machine independent. I tried it recently and was a little bit plagued with No. 2. I tried eyeing its alignment, but found I did better when I placed a straightedge (metal ruler) to indicate that "correct line". I have in mind to make an easy jig, but alas, just too much other stuff going on. I was also getting inconsistent angles. I'm sure there is something wrong with my technique, because it should be much more consistent. For the meantime, I've gone back to measuring to the top of the machine case. Rick
Quote from: cbwx34 on May 24, 2020, 02:57:14 PMQuote from: RickKrung on May 24, 2020, 05:03:08 AM...I have in mind to make an easy jig, but alas, just too much other stuff going on....snip...RickI'm sure by now you've seen the "Angle Tool" (but here it is for those that haven't)...https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=4170.0... that makes setup pretty easy and easily repeatable. I mainly use a caliper it's what I practiced with, and just like anything, with a bit of practice, you can get accurate consistent results. (I seem to recall you spending some time dialing in the accuracy measuring to the machine, in my mind, no different).
Quote from: RickKrung on May 24, 2020, 05:03:08 AM...I have in mind to make an easy jig, but alas, just too much other stuff going on....snip...Rick
Quote from: BobD on May 24, 2020, 04:10:48 PMRick,Would something like this help find the center line? Not sure if I'm misinterpreting what you're looking for
Quote from: cbwx34 on May 24, 2020, 05:26:48 PMQuote from: BobD on May 24, 2020, 04:10:48 PMRick,Would something like this help find the center line? Not sure if I'm misinterpreting what you're looking forGood idea! In fact, it made me think that just adding a string to the end of the caliper, could easily improve the accuracy...... or at least help during the "practice phase".
Quote from: Jan on June 01, 2020, 11:49:17 AMThe Excel script Polishing Angle Calc is really useful tool. Recently I used the sheet Thick Tapered Knife Edge to quantify the impact of blade thickness on the bevel angles.I assumed flat 4.5 mm (0.18") thick blade mounted in knife jig with projection distance of 139 mm and the USB set up geometrically for the grinding angle 15⁰. The script revealed that instead of the desired grinding angle 15⁰ we will get 15.5⁰ for the jig in the Up position and 14.5⁰ for the jig in the Down position. So the discrepancy between the desired grinding angle and the real grinding angle is 0.5⁰ for each side and does not depend on stone diameter or the magnitude of the grinding angle. This has important consequences for advanced, jig guided, deburring. Assuming that the deburring wheel was geometrically set up to 16.5⁰ in reality we will hone 17⁰ for the jig in the Up position and 16⁰ for the jig in the Down position. It means that despite the fact that the bevel angles are slightly biased the deburring of each site will be done as intended. Jan
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