Tinkering with the T7

[Ken S]

I can't find where I read it earlier today, however, I remember reading a reply which stated that paper wheels work better at higher speeds (3450 rpm; 1725 would not be fast enough.) I found out that the paper wheels need the high speed to generate enough heat to melt the wax. I believe the wax binds the abrasive together on the abrasive wheel. I do not know if there is any other reason to run the wheels fast. If not, diamond paste with a Tormek might also work.

Would this be an improvement over the leather honing wheel? I don't know. I post this only to bring the wax melting into the duscussion.

Ken

[cbwx34]

I can't find where I read it earlier today, however, I remember reading a reply which stated that paper wheels work better at higher speeds (3450 rpm; 1725 would not be fast enough.) I found out that the paper wheels need the high speed to generate enough heat to melt the wax. I believe the wax binds the abrasive together on the abrasive wheel. I do not know if there is any other reason to run the wheels fast. If not, diamond paste with a Tormek might also work.

Would this be an improvement over the leather honing wheel? I don't know. I post this only to bring the wax melting into the duscussion.

Ken

You're right... the wax is on the abrasive wheel, and it does need a higher speed to make it work properly.  (One company makes a wax if you want to run it slower... but I think it was by "special request").  It doesn't really bind the abrasive together that I know of... it's advertised purpose is to run a bit cooler, (and not as aggressive).  It doesn't apply to the honing wheel though.

The other thing is how true it runs... on a high speed grinder, they run pretty true (I know it's not entirely correct, but I'm sure you get the idea).  On the Tormek mod I did yesterday, it "wobbles" noticeably... and while I could true it a little, it would be hard to do if you really wanted it smooth.  (But at the low speed, it doesn't really matter a whole lot).

I only did a couple of knives... they came out great.  I think they're "more forgiving" than the leather wheel... but I'm sure part is operator efficiency, results you want, etc.... and it might take one of them "string cutting thingies" you have to find out. 

[Ken S]

...



The MDF Wheel is a testbed to find out what it can do exactly and how well.
I have been using MDF benchstrops with diamond compounds succesfully for quite some time now, and it was time to see if a motorized version would also work.
So far i found that it indeed works very well for removing burrs on harder & more wear resistant steel types (think S30V, ZDP-189, etc), as well as touching up existing edges on the same steels.
On softer steel types the leather wheel works noticeably better.
Also experimenting with various slots in the surface, both to trap steel debris as well as to find out if the direction of the slots has any influence in burr removal.
Will make a few more of these wheels in the future.

Hi KWAKSTER,

The image of the slots in the MDF surface went lost.
I'd appreciate if you could repost it please, I want to have a closer look. Supposedly the slots should be advantageous for deburring, how do you find them?

Thank you

-------------------
UPDATE:
Thanks to Curtis' help, the image has been recovered:

Here is my alternative, still in prototype stage:

[Ken S]

Sorry. I am having dufficulty posting the other three photos. My set up uses a 8x1" hard felt wheel. I debated between hard felt and rock hard felt. These wheels are also available in 10" diameter.

Rick made me a really nice reducing bushing and two bushings for my felt wheel. The set up works with either the T 4 or T7/8.

I have not had a chance to work enough with this to know if it will do anything the leather honing wheel or not. I will keep you posted.

My reason for posting this is to show that there are multiple paths to honing.

Ken

[WolfY]

Interesting alt. for the leather wheel. But if you already on a material that is not restricted by the form like leather why not trying to give an angle so the knife handle will be free from touching the stone?
Also I was playing with the thoughts of making a angled USB and accordingly true the stone. I was thinking of 10dgrs.

[Ken S]

Wolfy,

I realize the photo and brief description may not explain it well, however, in my version the felt wheel replaces the grinding wheel. It does not touch the grinding wheel because it is placed on the shaft where the grinding wheel would normally be located.

Incidentally, the tapered rubber honing wheel for the T2 is an exact fit and works just as well with the T4, as do the two diamond wheels from the T2.

Ken

[cbwx34]

Interesting alt. for the leather wheel. But if you already on a material that is not restricted by the form like leather why not trying to give an angle so the knife handle will be free from touching the stone?
Also I was playing with the thoughts of making a angled USB and accordingly true the stone. I was thinking of 10dgrs.

I was going to mention the T-2 honing wheel, just so I could say... you are prohibited from any other projects, until I'm seeing a self-centering knife jig. 

[WolfY]

Did some measurements today. Will make a USB with 5dgrs angle and true the stone accordingly. I wonder how it will feel to sharpen in an angle and not symmetrically for both sides (motion wise).
As for T-2 parts. I will get some T-2's next shipment and will be able to test and try. Still don't like the Magnet behind the knife and that the knife is absorbing the metal particles from the sharpening. Would rather use the SG/SB stones with water.

All my projects are not instead of the Self centering Jig, cause they are less dependent on others help.

Ken, I thought that u experimented with felt wheel instead of the leather. Got it now.

[cbwx34]

Did some measurements today. Will make a USB with 5dgrs angle and true the stone accordingly. I wonder how it will feel to sharpen in an angle and not symmetrically for both sides (motion wise).
As for T-2 parts. I will get some T-2's next shipment and will be able to test and try. Still don't like the Magnet behind the knife and that the knife is absorbing the metal particles from the sharpening. Would rather use the SG/SB stones with water.

All my projects are not instead of the Self centering Jig, cause they are less dependent on others help.

Ken, I thought that u experimented with felt wheel instead of the leather. Got it now.

You could always prop your machine up on one side... that might give you an idea of what it would feel like?  I think your idea would be a first. 

I didn't notice an issue with the magnet on the T-2 like you describe, (but I also wasn't looking for it).  It's not a strong magnet, FWIW.

Just kidding about the other projects... (honest I am).

[WolfY]

CB,

Did some knife sharpening with tilted machine after the post
Looked little strange but felt OK as I look primarily on the water/ knife contact with the wheel.
Another benefit is that the water drips out of the machine and not on or towards the leather wheel. It is also good if you take of the leather wheel for handle clearance.
I got a good feeling about it. Will make a 5dgrs tilted USB a.s.a.p.

Don't worry about pushing me with the project. I will always have some projects on my head. Not only in our field.