Youtube TORMEK DBS-22

[Johan_E]

I think this video gives a little more light on how this jig works and what it can deliver.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZO4kAKDcRg

[Ken S]

Johan,

Thanks for posting an excellent video. I always watch Alan Holtham's DBS-22 video as a warm up before sharpening drill bits. I think in the future I will watch both Alan and your Jeff Fischer video.

All in all, I thought the video was very done. I will try his suggestion of turning the bits s lightly counter clockwise before grinding.

One minor thing I would point out: Did you notice when he installed the new or newer grinding wheel that it was not quite true? The grinding was all happening on the right third of the grinding wheel. A light truing cut (perhaps several very light passes) would have made the entire surface of the wheel cut. This is a good example of why I preach having and using the new TT-50 truing tool and micro adjust universal support.

I will look into other videos by this guy. He seems sharp.

Thanks for posting the link.

Ken

[Johan_E]

Thanks Ken!

I also always look at Alan Holtham's DBS 22 video before I sharpen drill bits.

But I especially like the part where he talks about turning the drill bits counterclockwise.
I have had problems to sharpen small drill bits and will test the Jeff Fisher's method of turning the drill counterclockwise so we'll see if that helps. I have not had problems with drill bits 8mm and up.

[Ken S]

Johan,

I agree with you that the smallest drill bits are the most difficult to sharpen. In a way, that does not seem logical, as, due to the size, very little steel is ground away. (Fortunately they are the least expensive bits to purchase if necessary.)

I have been finding an LED flashlight increasingly useful when sharpening. Using the DBS magnifier requires strong light. LED lights are bright and cool to the touch.

I think the DBS-22 is Tormek's most advanced jig. A crisply ground four facet bit is amazing. It is well worth the effort to become proficient with this jig. My hat is off to the sharpener who can consistently grind well done four facet edges on small bits!

Do keep posting. We can all become better drill bit sharpeners by combining our experience.

Ken

[RickKrung]

I think this video gives a little more light on how this jig works and what it can deliver.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZO4kAKDcRg

Resurrecting an old thread with a video ostensibly reviewing the DBS-22 that has a real gem of a tip about achieving uniform primary facets, particularly for smaller drill bits (which I was playing with recently). 

The overall review of the jig is not that comprehensive or informative, but the gem-of-a-tip starts at 4:06 and is about rotating the drill bit slightly counterclockwise when setting it up in the holder and then as grinding of the primary facet proceeds, checking with the magnifier/guide for when the leading lip of the primary facet is lined up parallel with the holder guide lines.  INSTEAD of lining the leading lip with those lines BEFORE any grinding has occurred. 

I was not happy with how the primary facets were coming out with the leading and trailing edges not being parallel with one another, especially when the width of the primary facet was narrower out at periphery, so I was starting to rotate the bits counterclockwise in an attempt to compensate, but it had not occurred to me to check with the magnifier and STOP grinding when the leading edge was parallel with the guide line on the holder.  I was just going on to grinding the secondary facet and noticing afterward that the primary facet width was no uniform.  Also, futzing with aligning the flutes during setup AND maintaining the right projection distance was a pain and a bit of a time consumer, so that part will be easier in the future. 

As much as I appreciate the tip, I have to say there was something about the video that made part of me pucker...  That guy's shop was entirely TOO clean    Very nice tools there but just not right how clean. 

Rick

[RichColvin]

Rick,

I am to be one of 3 people doing a demo of sharpening techniques for wood turners in a few weeks.  Glad you brought this up :  I'll take my DBS-22 to the session also so I can show the versatility of the Tormek.

Kind regards,
RIch

[Ken S]

Rick,

I am to be one of 3 people doing a demo of sharpening techniques for wood turners in a few weeks.  Glad you brought this up :  I'll take my DBS-22 to the session also so I can show the versatility of the Tormek.

Kind regards,
RIch

Rick,

My DBS-22 is presently at my local machine shop being modified to your specs. Rich Colvin and I live near each other. I plan to attend his sharpening workshop as a civilian. I will bring my modified DBS-22 and a spare usb. That will allow us to quickly compare the modified and unmodified DBS jigs quickly, even comparing the two flutes on a drill bit. We can also get several opinions. We'll post the results. 

Ken

[RickKrung]

...snip...
I will bring my modified DBS-22 and a spare usb. That will allow us to quickly compare the modified and unmodified DBS jigs quickly, even comparing the two flutes on a drill bit. ...snip... 

Ken

Ken,

That sounds kind of exciting.  I wish I could be there. 

I am unclear however, what the spare USB is going to do for you and what comparing flutes will show you.  The utility of the mod I made to the jig base allows positioning it further to the left, providing more support for the slider base, reducing the likelihood of it tipping as the drill bit holder slides to the left.  All that does is keep the grinding of the flutes consistent without risk of messing up the flutes due to the tipping. 

Am I missing something else? 

Rick

[Ken S]

Rick,

The use of the second usb goes back to an idea Jeff Farris presented on his turning DVD. He had a spare Torlock platform and usb preset for his turning scrapers. To switch from sharpening his gouges to his scrapers, all he had to do was swap usbs. I have found this preset arrangement is very efficient. It also works well with earlier non threaded usbs; just use the locking collar stop from the straight edge jig with it.

We won't be comparing flutes, just the feel of the jig using the modified and unmodified jigs. Changing jigs after one flute operates with the assumption that both flutes are equally dull. Using the same bit standardizes the alloy.

Milling away part of the Torlock adds another machining operation and its cost to the jig. I can understand why the Tormek designers might choose not to do it. Although the jig can handle bits up to 22mm (7/8"), I suspect most users rarely sharpen anything larger than 12mm (1/2") and would not notice the difference. Even without the extra milling cost, the DBS is already Tormek's most expensive jig.

I think your idea is very solid. I am convinced enough to have my jig modified.

Keep up the creative thinking!

Ken

[RickKrung]

Ok, thanks.  That makes more sense.  I know nothing of turning and sharpening turning tools. 

Yes, since the DBS-22 base is an extrusion, it would require an additional machining step that Tormek is unlikely to adopt.  Too bad, I think it is a very valuable mod that applies to all sizes of drill, not just larger ones.  But, maybe it isn't such a big deal.  I don't recall hearing anyone else complain about the tipping, before or after I posted about it.  Maybe it is just me.  No matter, I have solved it for myself. 

Rick

[Chewbacca]

I'm a first time poster and user of the Tormek grinding system and so for it is impressive. I have a question for the pros.
For a dill bit that is worn the manual says to rotate the bit counter clockwise so that the cutting edges end up parallel with the lines on the jig.
My question is this: When I'm finished grinding the primary facets and the edges aren't parallel to the lines can I reposition the drill bit in the jig to continue on with the grinding of the secondary facets?

Chewie

[RichColvin]

Walter,

You can, but I recommend that after you rotate the bit, you slightly re-grind the primary bevels again.  That way you will be setup for making the secondary bevels.  I don't like rotating the bit between those grinds, and not doing that has served me well. 

Kind regards,
Rich

[RickKrung]

I'm with Rich on this.  I've done it, but I have touched up the primary before changing to the secondary facets.  I find that this happens when I have ground too far on the primaries and the leading edge is not in line with the lines on the jig.  This usually means the projection has shortened, so I move the bit out a little to reset the projection also. 

Rick

[Chewbacca]

I'm with Rich on this.  I've done it, but I have touched up the primary before changing to the secondary facets.  I find that this happens when I have ground too far on the primaries and the leading edge is not in line with the lines on the jig.  This usually means the projection has shortened, so I move the bit out a little to reset the projection also. 

Rick

Walter,

You can, but I recommend that after you rotate the bit, you slightly re-grind the primary bevels again.  That way you will be setup for making the secondary bevels.  I don't like rotating the bit between those grinds, and not doing that has served me well. 

Kind regards,
Rich

Spent the day grinding.
A fellow that I met who works in a boat yard got to talking drill bits and sure enough he had some bits that I could work on. A 1/2 inch bit was in really bad shape was one of them. . He had tried to sharpen it on a grinder and there was about 5 different angles on both sides. I figured that this would fall into the well worn category.For the bits used in the boat yard I made the decision to use the 9 degree angle for the lip clearance because they work with Stainless and from the way I've seen some of those boys lay the weight on to get their dull bits to drill I  figured a slower cut in softer metal may help with heat.  I line up the cutting edges to the diagonal lines, and started grinding. As I go along I'm checking, the edge isn't moving to the straight line at all. So I ended up setting up the bit to straight lines after I had the primaries done and reground. All came out good. Still stumped as to why the edge didn't move though.