"making nice" with the Anglemaster

[Ken S]

("Making nice" is an English idiom for getting along well.)

I have had an up and down relationship with the Anglemaster. I must accept most of the blame for this. My first difficulty was having difficulty seeing it well enough to use it properly. I finally realized this was due to working with poor light. Yes, the handbook mentioned the need for good light.

The Anglemaster works very well with long flat surfaces such as the backs of bench chisels and bench planes. With shorter bevels, I generally prefer other methods such as the kenjig or a black marker. With knives, I have  found that a flat substitute for the knife works well. I made a piece of metal with a long bevel which works well. Jan suggested using something thinner, which works better. The plastic pieces deigned to lure the recipient into yet another credit card make good substitute "knives".

This plastic piece, or an old motel door card work well with the flat platform of the scissors jig. The crd extends all the way to the grinding wheel, giving a more accurate reading.

In both of these cases, the plastic provides a longer flat surface for the Anglemaster. I still prefer non measuring methods like the kenjig or black marker, but providing a good reference surface makes the Anglemaster a more user friendly tool.

Ken

[jeffs55]

I do not know how to use the Anglemaster having always used a black marker to determine the angle I want on a certain object. When the black is ground off, and it only takes a couple of revolutions, you can readily see the angle at which you are going to grind.

[Ken S]

I agree, Jeff. The black marker method is very simple, reliable and quick when we start with an already established bevel. A marker was the first thing I put in the top "tool" drawer officials  the sharpening station.

Whenever possible, I use neither the Anglemaster or he marker. Going way back, in my opinion, Torgny Jansson discovered a better path. He used spacer blocks. Late in life he ombined the spacer block concept with projection slots and automatic grinding wheel compensation in the TTS-100. Jan's well done variation of  this is in the knife section. I have been using the TTS-100 for years to quickly and repeatably set up chisels and plane blades.

That does not mean that I would discard the Anglemaster. It is still a very useful tool, and one I would recommend mastering. It shines for things like reshaping a chisel to better suit paring or being used with a mallet. I believe it will really come into its own with the scissors jig. Exploring that is still in the early stages.

I don't keep my Anglemaster attached to the front of my Tormek. I do keep it next to the TTS-100 and the black marker in the top tool drawer.

Ken

Ps Jeff, do you sharpen scissors?

[jeffs55]

I have never attempted to sharpen scissors and do not have the appropriate jig.

[Herman Trivilino]

One problem with the marker method is error accumulates. This is not likely to be an issue unless you are fussy about such things. Like if you have a favorite angle for a favorite knife or tool. For example, sometimes the bevel angle is a compromise between edge life and performance. Too small and the edge won't last long, too blunt and it doesn't cut well.

Another issue is when you have a very thin knife. It's almost impossible to see the bevel, let alone color it to see if you're matching it. Once you do find a bevel angle you're happy with you may want to duplicate it.

[Ken S]

I agree, Herman. That's why I have been promoting the "kenjig". It insures that future setups match the past setup, regardless of what you may have used the Tormek to sharpen in between. The angle is always the same, and there is no need to measure anything. All the jig is is a small offset of plywood, although any wood, mounting board or cardboard would work. It takes more time to read about than to make and use time is fast.

For the record, the only thing I added was the application. The basic theory goes back to Torgny and the handbook.

Ken

[Elden]

   Matching the existing bevel can also be accomplished by using the scratch method instead of the marker. The same techniques of the the marker method are utilized. With the tool mounted in the jig, turn the grinding wheel by hand while holding the tool against the wheel. A scratch pattern will be left on the edge.

[Ken S]

Quite true, Elden.

By the way, did you ever have a chance to try out the kenjig I sent you? Not to push my idea, however, I still think that is the most efficient thing going now, with the exception of the device Jan built.

Ken

[jeffs55]

Yeah, the marker method is surely not precise but it is close enough for me. Anyway, I am subject to want to change angles at any time on any knife just to see the difference. I have never sharpened anything but knives and chisels but I can do them well. When anything, including a knife has much curve in it, I get a little apprehensive. It is a huge learning curve to follow a curve and get it right. Further, the squared edge of the wheel does not help at all in this area. I am not going to distort my wheel to follow a curve either. What a waste of expensive stone that is. It seems to me that the "scratch method" and the "marker method" are two names for the same thing.

[Ken S]

Interesting comments, Jeff. We sometimes forget that sharpening has been done for centuries by hand and eye, and experience. It would be interesting to examine some of the tool edges of the truly great chefs and cabinetmakers of the past. Ironically, those remaining in pristine condition may be that way because they were not used. The really good tools have probably been totally consumed.

I think what tools like the Tormek can do is to allow someone to produce finer edges than one might expect with that person's experience level. There is no total substitute for experience and good teaching, however, a conscientious beginner can produce some impressively sharp and uniform edges with the Tormek and jigs, and do so in remarkably short time.

I keep returning to the Tormek's range of options. A Tormek user can make his every chisel razor sharp with the same bevel angle year after year, removing only the minimal amount of steel. Considering the cost of high quality tools, an active woodworker or chef could easily save more than the investment in a Tormek over a lifetime of work, and have sharper, more useful tools during that lifetime. On the other hand, another craftsman might decide to experiment with different bevels with full control and repeatability. He might decide to use jigs or work freehand.

One of the fascinating aspects of an Internet forum is the ability to both learn and teach literally globally. We can easily grow from our shared experiences.

Both the marker method and the scratch method look for the difference contact with a grinding wheel makes to a tool. I suspect the marker method evelves from the scratch method because the worker had difficulty seeing the difference due to bad lighting, poor eyesight or a esire to be more precise.

Ken