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Started by wootz, August 02, 2015, 02:14:37 PM
Quote from: Herman Trivilino on January 15, 2016, 04:51:49 AMQuote from: carvingcat on January 14, 2016, 12:50:11 PMAfter a bit of advice from Tormek Support I've managed to get my jig sorted! Did they tell you straighten it out? So you were no longer afraid you might break it?
Quote from: carvingcat on January 14, 2016, 12:50:11 PMAfter a bit of advice from Tormek Support I've managed to get my jig sorted!
Quote from: stevebot on January 05, 2016, 11:53:07 PMFor a look at another sharpener's solution to this problem, see http://amktactical.com/epages/3c926a50-9aba-43a5-9571-098ee03f1288.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Shops/3c926a50-9aba-43a5-9571-098ee03f1288/Products/24Watch the video from about 1:30.
Quote from: Jan on November 04, 2015, 01:17:09 PMP.S.: Ken, in the sketch above you can see settings for a kenjig: projection length 139 mm, support-stone distance s = 80 mm, which for stone radius 125 mm should guarantee the bevel edge 15 degrees.As s' = 79 mm you can see my small correction of s, which reflects the way how we measure the support-stone distance with a kenjig.
Quote from: Ken S on February 12, 2019, 01:24:00 PMA question from Texaspro inspired an idea. It is borrowed from sharpening skew chisels. With skew chisels, the amount of skew by setting the skew amount to a perpendicular line drawn on the grinding wheel. To draw this line, lower the support bar until it touches the grinding wheel. (Be sure the grinding wheel has been trued.) Using a fine point Sharpie marker, draw a line across the grinding wheel, using the support bar as a straightedge. Set the jig to the desired bevel angle. With the knife jig with the knife mounted onto the support bar with the sharp edge touching the line. Without moving the grinding wheel, flip the jig over. If the knife is set symmetrically, both sides of the blade should touch the line. This may be easier to see if the the support bar is raised to hold the knife at a right angle to the grinding wheel.Ken
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